transmission fluid
04-28-08, 05:14 PM
#76
Tech Info Resource
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Originally Posted by techinfo.toyota.com
Check the valve opening temperature of the thermostat.
Standard: 80 to 84°C (176 to 183°F)
Standard: 80 to 84°C (176 to 183°F)
The heat exchanger is there to stabilize the ATF temperature. If it is cold, it will get heated. If it is hot, it will cool it via the engine's radiator the same as if they ran a couple of tubes up to a heat exchanger in the lower radiator tank like a billion other cars with automatics do.
This same technology is frequently used with engine oil for exactly the same reason. Water/oil coolers are not unusual at all on many performance engines because they stabilize the oil temperature through the engine cooling system.
04-28-08, 05:36 PM
#77
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No offense intended, but you're both right about engine temps. Depends on the mfg. I've owned many vehicles that ran 210º (according to mechanical guages or good heat thermometers)....most import engines seem to run 180-195º from what I've seen (though my 22re was running about 210 with the factory pn thermostat....I went to a 2 stage and brought it down to around 190º).
Chevys run very hot....210-220º is common....mostly b/c it's the only way they will pass emissions, but you're on the brink of overheating all the time.
Sean
Chevys run very hot....210-220º is common....mostly b/c it's the only way they will pass emissions, but you're on the brink of overheating all the time.
Sean
08-03-08, 05:03 PM
#78
Lead Lap
You guys just crack me up.
First of all what makes 100,000 so special. Like as soon as you hit it the tranny fluid is going to crap out. It's sealed, why screw with it. Unless your towing or something it's going to last longer than most of you will ever own your car.
For reference I work with a fellow who drives a V6 2000 Mustang automatic. He drives the car as part of his job delivering auto parts. The car has over 200,000 miles on it and the tranny, rear end and even the antifreeze have NEVER been changed. The car runs perfectly. He changes the oil himself at 5000 miles and uses whatever 10/30 oil is on sale.
I too, use to believe all that BS about 3000 mile oil changes, etc. It's all BS under normal driving conditions. Your money, spend it how you want but I'll keep mine in the bank and just enjoy my car and follow the owner's manuel for maintenance outside of oil changes which I run for 7,500 miles; I use Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic 5/30.
First of all what makes 100,000 so special. Like as soon as you hit it the tranny fluid is going to crap out. It's sealed, why screw with it. Unless your towing or something it's going to last longer than most of you will ever own your car.
For reference I work with a fellow who drives a V6 2000 Mustang automatic. He drives the car as part of his job delivering auto parts. The car has over 200,000 miles on it and the tranny, rear end and even the antifreeze have NEVER been changed. The car runs perfectly. He changes the oil himself at 5000 miles and uses whatever 10/30 oil is on sale.
I too, use to believe all that BS about 3000 mile oil changes, etc. It's all BS under normal driving conditions. Your money, spend it how you want but I'll keep mine in the bank and just enjoy my car and follow the owner's manuel for maintenance outside of oil changes which I run for 7,500 miles; I use Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic 5/30.
Last edited by Gtidan; 08-03-08 at 05:07 PM.
08-03-08, 09:47 PM
#79
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Ummm, no, most engines do not run at 210F, they run between 180F and 195F depending on the manufacturer.
So please explain how the ATF is "warmed" by the ATF "warmer" if you put your foot on the brake and step on the gas to test stall speed?
The heat exchanger is there to stabilize the ATF temperature. If it is cold, it will get heated. If it is hot, it will cool it via the engine's radiator the same as if they ran a couple of tubes up to a heat exchanger in the lower radiator tank like a billion other cars with automatics do.
This same technology is frequently used with engine oil for exactly the same reason. Water/oil coolers are not unusual at all on many performance engines because they stabilize the oil temperature through the engine cooling system.
So please explain how the ATF is "warmed" by the ATF "warmer" if you put your foot on the brake and step on the gas to test stall speed?
The heat exchanger is there to stabilize the ATF temperature. If it is cold, it will get heated. If it is hot, it will cool it via the engine's radiator the same as if they ran a couple of tubes up to a heat exchanger in the lower radiator tank like a billion other cars with automatics do.
This same technology is frequently used with engine oil for exactly the same reason. Water/oil coolers are not unusual at all on many performance engines because they stabilize the oil temperature through the engine cooling system.
Oil on the other hand is almost always hotter than 210° F, so almost any coolant driven oil coolers will cool it at least a little, but on a race car almost alway air cooled.
02-25-09, 10:36 AM
#80
It seems like the felt filter in the transmission is very big, and sufficient to catch all the debris that 9 qt of ATF, the torque converter, and the friction material can generate.
If they use the correct type of friction material and engine control method (reduce power and rev match during shift), it could mean that there are little debris to be catch. If they also use a correctly engineered fluid (synthetic) and the right temperature (176F) then it may have rarely any oxidation that degrade it. Finally if it shift with sensor that adjust shifting to the speed of each components rather than blindly shift at a particular force/speed/torque/setting, then it can handle a degraded fluid as long as it is not grinding out the bearings or gears.
In the end, if the fluid life is not the limiting factor of the transmission, then you can say it is life time. What good is a fresh lifetime fluid if the transmission is only designed to last 100k, or more likely the seal of the oil pan only last 100-150k when the fluid should last 160k in this situation?
If they use the correct type of friction material and engine control method (reduce power and rev match during shift), it could mean that there are little debris to be catch. If they also use a correctly engineered fluid (synthetic) and the right temperature (176F) then it may have rarely any oxidation that degrade it. Finally if it shift with sensor that adjust shifting to the speed of each components rather than blindly shift at a particular force/speed/torque/setting, then it can handle a degraded fluid as long as it is not grinding out the bearings or gears.
In the end, if the fluid life is not the limiting factor of the transmission, then you can say it is life time. What good is a fresh lifetime fluid if the transmission is only designed to last 100k, or more likely the seal of the oil pan only last 100-150k when the fluid should last 160k in this situation?
06-15-09, 11:52 PM
#83
Hello All,
While I was doing an oil change, i decided to drained the transmission fluid out as well. I figured it'll be a snap while i'm under there already. I have not done any search about transmission fluid prior to draining it. OHh my car has 27K miles by the way. Then after i drained it I decide to search for best oil type and landed on a bunch of threads saying don't do it. Anyways, i was pretty much screwed, so i decided to proceed with the instruction posted by lobuxracer. When i drained the fluid, almost 4 quarts came out and the transmission fluid looked like engine oil
. The new ATF WS oil was red so in a way I was kinda glad i did do the flush and fill. I filled about the same amount that came out. I then proceded to short the TC, OPB and CG and saw christmas lights all over the instrumental panel like someone had mentioned. I followed all of it until step 10. Which was to move the shifter to D and then back to N a few times. I did this and nothing happened. In the instruction it says that the shift position "D" will come on for 2 seconds and then go off, well mines didn't do that. I tried it several times and it didn't light up as the instructions state. The engine was idling for atleast 10 minutes. The temperature in SOCAL was around 70 degrees. I just proceeded with checking the overflow hole and seeing the fluid trickled down and tightened the bolt.
My question now is, is step #10 critical? If the light doesn't come on that means you are operating at less than optiminal temperature and if that happens what do you do to adjust the temperature to be optimal?
Someone please help!!!!
While I was doing an oil change, i decided to drained the transmission fluid out as well. I figured it'll be a snap while i'm under there already. I have not done any search about transmission fluid prior to draining it. OHh my car has 27K miles by the way. Then after i drained it I decide to search for best oil type and landed on a bunch of threads saying don't do it. Anyways, i was pretty much screwed, so i decided to proceed with the instruction posted by lobuxracer. When i drained the fluid, almost 4 quarts came out and the transmission fluid looked like engine oil
. The new ATF WS oil was red so in a way I was kinda glad i did do the flush and fill. I filled about the same amount that came out. I then proceded to short the TC, OPB and CG and saw christmas lights all over the instrumental panel like someone had mentioned. I followed all of it until step 10. Which was to move the shifter to D and then back to N a few times. I did this and nothing happened. In the instruction it says that the shift position "D" will come on for 2 seconds and then go off, well mines didn't do that. I tried it several times and it didn't light up as the instructions state. The engine was idling for atleast 10 minutes. The temperature in SOCAL was around 70 degrees. I just proceeded with checking the overflow hole and seeing the fluid trickled down and tightened the bolt. My question now is, is step #10 critical? If the light doesn't come on that means you are operating at less than optiminal temperature and if that happens what do you do to adjust the temperature to be optimal?
Someone please help!!!!
06-16-09, 04:11 PM
#84
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Spend the $15 and get a login to TIS. All the information you need to service the car is there. If you don't have the information you need, you can do great harm to your car. The $15 is for two days of access. You can get a LOT of information in two days.
09-10-11, 02:56 PM
#87
If you absolutely insist on changing the fluid, you could machine a piece using the dimensions of the oil cooler, install it in place of the oil cooler, and do a complete fluid swap with a conventional fluid exchange machine. Some enterprising soul may actually do this at some point
Here we are about 3.5 years later and the device you described has apparently now been invented
http://www.equipmentsolutions.com/Fo...b978c9df937837
Toyota/Lexus adapters set - supports servicing of most A/T’s including puck style coolers
12-04-14, 09:46 PM
#89
