Bempa

I agree that it seems very odd that the codes is disappearing and new one is coming on later,
Have you tried measured the voltage at the battey terminals with the car running? Not just realying on the volt meter inside the car.
As Daddystop is saying that voltage must be above 14V closer to 14,8V is the best.

Just follow Daddystops steps as a first diagnosis check, I would not either do anything else before really assuring that the car has proper voltage, and if you have a glitch in the terminals as you say, you must adress that first to make a proper connection so the car is constantly seing 14,0 to 14,8V while it´s running, not less or more.

And this:
*Make sure you have every factory ground possible hooked up and in good condition (use the manual to find those) - Very important, especially the Good Condition part

PrisyCrisy

Okay I will do that. One thing I do not see in my manual is when the car should be in the ON position or actually running when I check voltage.
Mathis honestly makes me a bit nervous! I’m afraid I’m going to short something.
So ... can I put the test leads on the pos and neg battery terminals when the car is on?
i wish there was a better diagram for the locations of the vehicle ground points... the picture they have is not so easy to read.

daddystop

What you're testing for is the alternator charging capabilities and the battery's ability to hold a charge when the car is off..... so you will need to have the car running to test. One test w/ car running one test with key completely out of the car.

You can test the battery voltage on the terminals w/ the car on. What you don't want to do is ground any power wire. This means don't have something touch the power terminal on the battery and a ground anywhere.... that's what will cause "the fun" to happen.

PrisyCrisy

It was a pain getting the APPS off but I did and was successful in replacing it. She’s driving great!
plan to swap all those connectors out with new pigtails which I received today also ... but she’s better!
Back rotors and brake pads are next!

daddystop

That's great news! I dunno what the APPS is but I know it's part of the throttle body assembly.

PrisyCrisy

It’s the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor.
In the 2003 it is not located in the actual pedal.., it is under the hood, on the firewall side of the throttle, the TPS (throttle position sensor) is on the other side of the throttle.

daddystop

Ah that makes sense. The cable connecting to the throttle body only allows it to open about 30% with the car off. When the ECU sees the APPS go high it uses the throttle motor to open it all the way to 100% throttle even though the cable only opens it to 30%. It then verifies the throttle opening angle w/ the TPS sensor. CLEAR AS MUD it all makes sense now.