whats your mpg on RX450h?
#241
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80% City -- Have you tried the sluggish start? 7 seconds for 0 to 12.5MPH. You can kick gas pedal well to ICE on after reaching 12.5MPH. Regarding the speed band, ICE efficiency (with the combination of the electric CVT) is not good because of small amount of moving distance with much fuel. (and most of ICE energy goes to regeneration through CVT, not car acceleration directly)
Right, it is TOO SLOW to start from red signal in the city... So what I've been doing is using EV mode just for starting from signal. That allows me starting using electric motor only and accelerating over Eco zone on the power meter. So you can reach the speed faster. To return normal mode for starting ICE while running, just kick the gas pedal once deeply and shortly. It's efficient way in Tokyo.
(excuse me if you have already tried it.)
In addition, you may have chance to save battery for your last 2 miles. See the power meter, and keep zero between charge and eco by controlling gas pedal. I hate this car does not have "clutch off" mode. So the manual "clutch off", which is better way to keep the acquired moving energy - without battery loss, without regeneration. I didn't do that last winter. I do now. It's better for mine. With the good rolling resistant tires, it might be the best...
Right, it is TOO SLOW to start from red signal in the city... So what I've been doing is using EV mode just for starting from signal. That allows me starting using electric motor only and accelerating over Eco zone on the power meter. So you can reach the speed faster. To return normal mode for starting ICE while running, just kick the gas pedal once deeply and shortly. It's efficient way in Tokyo.
(excuse me if you have already tried it.)
In addition, you may have chance to save battery for your last 2 miles. See the power meter, and keep zero between charge and eco by controlling gas pedal. I hate this car does not have "clutch off" mode. So the manual "clutch off", which is better way to keep the acquired moving energy - without battery loss, without regeneration. I didn't do that last winter. I do now. It's better for mine. With the good rolling resistant tires, it might be the best...
#242
Pole Position
80% City -- Have you tried the sluggish start? 7 seconds for 0 to 12.5MPH. You can kick gas pedal well to ICE on after reaching 12.5MPH. Regarding the speed band, ICE efficiency (with the combination of the electric CVT) is not good because of small amount of moving distance with much fuel. (and most of ICE energy goes to regeneration through CVT, not car acceleration directly)
Right, it is TOO SLOW to start from red signal in the city... So what I've been doing is using EV mode just for starting from signal. That allows me starting using electric motor only and accelerating over Eco zone on the power meter. So you can reach the speed faster. To return normal mode for starting ICE while running, just kick the gas pedal once deeply and shortly. It's efficient way in Tokyo.
(excuse me if you have already tried it.)
In addition, you may have chance to save battery for your last 2 miles. See the power meter, and keep zero between charge and eco by controlling gas pedal. I hate this car does not have "clutch off" mode. So the manual "clutch off", which is better way to keep the acquired moving energy - without battery loss, without regeneration. I didn't do that last winter. I do now. It's better for mine. With the good rolling resistant tires, it might be the best...
Right, it is TOO SLOW to start from red signal in the city... So what I've been doing is using EV mode just for starting from signal. That allows me starting using electric motor only and accelerating over Eco zone on the power meter. So you can reach the speed faster. To return normal mode for starting ICE while running, just kick the gas pedal once deeply and shortly. It's efficient way in Tokyo.
(excuse me if you have already tried it.)
In addition, you may have chance to save battery for your last 2 miles. See the power meter, and keep zero between charge and eco by controlling gas pedal. I hate this car does not have "clutch off" mode. So the manual "clutch off", which is better way to keep the acquired moving energy - without battery loss, without regeneration. I didn't do that last winter. I do now. It's better for mine. With the good rolling resistant tires, it might be the best...
My consumption is between 35MPG (US) and 27 MPG (US) depending on the traffic conditions, oil engine cold or warm, distance covered, city or outside, windy conditions.
Average in optimal conditions is close to 35-33MPG (US) but I am leaving in a region which is hilly with sometimes steep roads so difficult to measure with constant parameters.
In addition, our speedway/motorway have a speed limit wich is higher than in the US (around 81mph) and all other roads unless mentioned lower, is 56mph.
Briefly, on motorway, stabilised speed with no wind, no sloping, @ 81mph, average consumption is around 29 -27 MPG (US) or otherwise around 38-40MPG (US)
#243
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Clutch off :
It is to say, the state of cutting relay off between engines and tires, as "gliding". Gliding is better than repeating acceleration and regeneration by motors to save any loss. But RXh's system always make 3 motors linked with tires, that cause electrical losses (drive or regenerate by/to battery) and friction loss. Without holding the gas pedal on, ECU decides declining speeds as like as engine brake. So driver requires controlling the pedal, to keep neutral.
As for coasting, not only on hills but also right after acceleration, the neutral state is valid to save not only fossil oil but also battery.
I've heard Porsche's and Nissan(Infinity)'s systems have physical clutch, which is for coasting at high speed to keep moving energy. It sounds good.
It is to say, the state of cutting relay off between engines and tires, as "gliding". Gliding is better than repeating acceleration and regeneration by motors to save any loss. But RXh's system always make 3 motors linked with tires, that cause electrical losses (drive or regenerate by/to battery) and friction loss. Without holding the gas pedal on, ECU decides declining speeds as like as engine brake. So driver requires controlling the pedal, to keep neutral.
As for coasting, not only on hills but also right after acceleration, the neutral state is valid to save not only fossil oil but also battery.
I've heard Porsche's and Nissan(Infinity)'s systems have physical clutch, which is for coasting at high speed to keep moving energy. It sounds good.
#244
Pole Position
I got 30.5 mpg on my first half tank on my 2012 450h. Hard for even me to believe that this thing will get what is actually advertised on the sticker!
#245
Driver School Candidate
I just read this entire thread and all I got was this stinkin table...
Seriously - thanks for all who shared. It looks like for the most part people are getting just a shade under EPA estimates, though I notice a lot of posters from the south, so probably FWD cars for the most part.
Are you sure y'all don't work for Lexus??
No Combined City Highway
1 30.0 31.0 28.0
2 30.0 31.0 28.0
3 31.0 32.0 29.0
4 25.0 27.0 24.0
5 28.0
6 30.0
7 28.0 31.0 29.0
8 29.0 30.0 27.0
9 28.0 30.0 27.0
10 29.7
11 29.6
12 26.5
13 30.0
14 24.0
15 30.5
16 28.5
17 29.5
18 28.5
19 34.2
20 33.0
21 28.0
22 26.0
23 22.0
24 29.5
25 25.1
26 27.5
27 30.0
28 29.6
29 30.5
30 28.5
31 28.0
32 23.0 27.0
33 19.0
34 26.5
35 32.5
36 30.7
37 21.0
38 27.3
39 30.5
40 24.0
41 26.7
42 32.5
43 24.5
44 27.0
45 25.0
46 29.1
47 30.1
48 30.0
49 26.7
50 27.5
51 27.5
52 27.0
53 26.5
54 26.0
55 25.6
56 27.0
57 28.6
58 40.8
59 26.5
60 30.3
61 28.8
62 30.5
Average 27.9 30.6 28.1
Std Dev. 2.7 4.2 2.4
Median 28.0 30.5 28.0
Seriously - thanks for all who shared. It looks like for the most part people are getting just a shade under EPA estimates, though I notice a lot of posters from the south, so probably FWD cars for the most part.
Are you sure y'all don't work for Lexus??
No Combined City Highway
1 30.0 31.0 28.0
2 30.0 31.0 28.0
3 31.0 32.0 29.0
4 25.0 27.0 24.0
5 28.0
6 30.0
7 28.0 31.0 29.0
8 29.0 30.0 27.0
9 28.0 30.0 27.0
10 29.7
11 29.6
12 26.5
13 30.0
14 24.0
15 30.5
16 28.5
17 29.5
18 28.5
19 34.2
20 33.0
21 28.0
22 26.0
23 22.0
24 29.5
25 25.1
26 27.5
27 30.0
28 29.6
29 30.5
30 28.5
31 28.0
32 23.0 27.0
33 19.0
34 26.5
35 32.5
36 30.7
37 21.0
38 27.3
39 30.5
40 24.0
41 26.7
42 32.5
43 24.5
44 27.0
45 25.0
46 29.1
47 30.1
48 30.0
49 26.7
50 27.5
51 27.5
52 27.0
53 26.5
54 26.0
55 25.6
56 27.0
57 28.6
58 40.8
59 26.5
60 30.3
61 28.8
62 30.5
Average 27.9 30.6 28.1
Std Dev. 2.7 4.2 2.4
Median 28.0 30.5 28.0
#246
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As for my current avg. MPG, I do most of my driving over the grapevine (I-5) going to and from Southern California. I'd like to see more stats from everyone here. My 150 mile trips going down south are approximately 45 miles of mountains. I'm really hoping this explains my mileage. I once went 32.6 one way and about the last 15 miles was heavy stop and slow traffic with headlights, A/C and radio off to try and maximize as much as possible. I hope my 12v batt. in the back is not to blame for my lower than steller mileage. I keep all of my mileage logged on my phone and I include things like: ambient temperature, tire pressure, range left if any, range after fillup, avg. mph, avg. mpg, fuel type and trip miles. I have noticed that there are differences (as small as .15mpg to 1.5 mpg higher or lower) from trip miles/gallons used compared to what the MPG reading says. I also always try to reset the avg. mpg reading so that I can see the difference from fillup to fillup on the NAV trend screen. I hope my fuel stats help people better understand my real world usage and if my 25.5 Avg. MPG is reasonable. Please feel free to comment.
Patrick
Patrick
#247
Patrick,
Welcome to CL. Thanks for your mileage information. You record ambient temperature and I wish I had. Between it and my lead foot, it seems to considerably affect my mileage.
How is city versus highway differentiated and how do you record it? Also, do you keep your car locked in Eco (multi-information display setting) mode?
Welcome to CL. Thanks for your mileage information. You record ambient temperature and I wish I had. Between it and my lead foot, it seems to considerably affect my mileage.
How is city versus highway differentiated and how do you record it? Also, do you keep your car locked in Eco (multi-information display setting) mode?
#248
2011 FWD live in South East and we are having a warm winter.
No winter gas and tire pressure is set at 38psi. I have never had an average below 30 mpg and have right at 15,000. Winter time is a very steady 32 mpg and Summer a steady 34 mpg.
I regularly drive 50/50 highway city. Oh and I run 87 octane gas.
Bob
No winter gas and tire pressure is set at 38psi. I have never had an average below 30 mpg and have right at 15,000. Winter time is a very steady 32 mpg and Summer a steady 34 mpg.
I regularly drive 50/50 highway city. Oh and I run 87 octane gas.
Bob
#250
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Patrick,
Welcome to CL. Thanks for your mileage information. You record ambient temperature and I wish I had. Between it and my lead foot, it seems to considerably affect my mileage.
How is city versus highway differentiated and how do you record it? Also, do you keep your car locked in Eco (multi-information display setting) mode?
Welcome to CL. Thanks for your mileage information. You record ambient temperature and I wish I had. Between it and my lead foot, it seems to considerably affect my mileage.
How is city versus highway differentiated and how do you record it? Also, do you keep your car locked in Eco (multi-information display setting) mode?
Patrick
#252
Good point about FWD vs AWD. I fill up and then record the averages from the multi-information display and then reset them. I rarely clear the average on the navigation display. However, we're on a trip now. I cleared navigation when we arrived and will clear it when we leave, then clear it at home. That would be highway, then city, then highway. Probably the only way I can figure to split mine up. Car is loaded for highway with four adults and full cargo area. Stopping distance feels like it doubled and brakes needed often as regenerative doesn't cut it.
I'm definitely not as faithful nor as thorough as you are recording information!!
I'm definitely not as faithful nor as thorough as you are recording information!!
#253
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David, you have a great idea like you said about resetting and tracking your city and highway mileage. I am very concerned that there might be other people that are having trouble reporting their mileage correctly because there are a few ways to clear the readings. The one I clear all of the time to start a new reading for the past records is located on the steering wheel. I use it to clear the avg. mph and avg. mpg. There is one for since last refuel and the avg. mpg. These will usually be close to each other as long as the avg. mpg is reset at the time you put it into drive and pull forward after refueling. I kind of could care less that I won't have the avg. mpg for all the mileage that I have to date since I can easily find out the lifetime avg. by just tracking the mileage each time. Plus, if you never perform the reset, then the history will never advance on the past records page. This is a problem that someone had twangster at Lexus Owners Club had because he did not perform the same reset or clear.
So... all this being said, I think owners should read the thread to make sure they do not fall victim to miss-reporting their MPG. If it's not clear enough, then I will elaborate. I'll give a hint. You have to use the enter button on the right side of the steering wheel. It does more than just toggle in case people aren't aware. David, the main reason I thought to mention all of this was because you used the word clear rather than reset since it says clear on the past records screen. I could be wrong, but are you using this method?
About the regen, I wish there was more of it when you have more of a load to carry. You'll notice that once the SOC (State of Charge) is near or at the top, you'll see less regen with foot off of break and feel less regen when breaking with what looks like full regen. This happens because the SOC is high and the inverter/regen will not allow itself to overcharge the hybrid battery. Ultimately you'll need to apply more break pressure and this ends up using more break pads and rotors. Believe it or not, I in fact can still see the original rotors surface from the factory because I use my breaks more efficiently. It looks like when you get your rotors re-surfaced. Kinda nice to know... I hope I'm not pissing anyone off by my long replies. I don't ever blogg before CL but it's getting so damned addicting for the cause. I'm hopeful when I look here to find surprise postings and replies. FYI, I went for a MPG diagnostic drive today and will post my non-scientific findings later in this thread. Please continue below.
Buk at Lexus Owners Club posted a response that I have quoted below.
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=61653
"There are three "clears", one is in the navigation window. When you use this one it clears all your historical data.
The other two are buried a little deeper. There are in your OLED display. Using the page icon on your steering wheel switch to the average displays. Use the enter "switch" to toggle to the AVERAGE MPG display. Now push and hold the "enter" switch in until the AVERAGE MPG zeros out.
Next use the enter switch to go to the AVERAGE SPEED display. Now push and hold the enter switch in until the AVERAGE SPEED zeros out.
Now the display in the navigation window will start a new day. Using the clear function in the navigation window clears all of your days out of memory."
Thanks,
Patrick
So... all this being said, I think owners should read the thread to make sure they do not fall victim to miss-reporting their MPG. If it's not clear enough, then I will elaborate. I'll give a hint. You have to use the enter button on the right side of the steering wheel. It does more than just toggle in case people aren't aware. David, the main reason I thought to mention all of this was because you used the word clear rather than reset since it says clear on the past records screen. I could be wrong, but are you using this method?
About the regen, I wish there was more of it when you have more of a load to carry. You'll notice that once the SOC (State of Charge) is near or at the top, you'll see less regen with foot off of break and feel less regen when breaking with what looks like full regen. This happens because the SOC is high and the inverter/regen will not allow itself to overcharge the hybrid battery. Ultimately you'll need to apply more break pressure and this ends up using more break pads and rotors. Believe it or not, I in fact can still see the original rotors surface from the factory because I use my breaks more efficiently. It looks like when you get your rotors re-surfaced. Kinda nice to know... I hope I'm not pissing anyone off by my long replies. I don't ever blogg before CL but it's getting so damned addicting for the cause. I'm hopeful when I look here to find surprise postings and replies. FYI, I went for a MPG diagnostic drive today and will post my non-scientific findings later in this thread. Please continue below.
Buk at Lexus Owners Club posted a response that I have quoted below.
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=61653
"There are three "clears", one is in the navigation window. When you use this one it clears all your historical data.
The other two are buried a little deeper. There are in your OLED display. Using the page icon on your steering wheel switch to the average displays. Use the enter "switch" to toggle to the AVERAGE MPG display. Now push and hold the "enter" switch in until the AVERAGE MPG zeros out.
Next use the enter switch to go to the AVERAGE SPEED display. Now push and hold the enter switch in until the AVERAGE SPEED zeros out.
Now the display in the navigation window will start a new day. Using the clear function in the navigation window clears all of your days out of memory."
Thanks,
Patrick
#254
Patrick,
"Normally" I use the steering wheel reset/clear/enter "button" (toggle switch) after each fill up and before I drive away from the pump. Those are the average numbers i record. It is rare I use the "clear" button in the navigation display.
"Rarely" I may fill up 2-3 times on a single long trip before using the steering wheel reset. I would note this if reporting any numbers.
I'll post some lead foot numbers in a few days.
"Normally" I use the steering wheel reset/clear/enter "button" (toggle switch) after each fill up and before I drive away from the pump. Those are the average numbers i record. It is rare I use the "clear" button in the navigation display.
"Rarely" I may fill up 2-3 times on a single long trip before using the steering wheel reset. I would note this if reporting any numbers.
I'll post some lead foot numbers in a few days.
#255
Pole Position
With my 2010 rx 450h AWD I can drive around 30 to 34MPG (US) @ 56mph and bit more on motorway where the speed average is 81mph (26MPG (US)
Question to all: how many miles/kms do you drive when the tank reserve with light on ? in other words how do you estimate the liters in the tank when on the reserve
Question to all: how many miles/kms do you drive when the tank reserve with light on ? in other words how do you estimate the liters in the tank when on the reserve