GXboat

On a very tall tire like I am putting on (265/70/18), I don't think I can put on Spidertraxx 1"-1.25" wheel adapters without hitting the outer fender without a lift. So I'd rather do a 1/4" (6mm) wheel spacer for the time being to make sure I clear the UCA with no rub, but not push the wheel out until I decide to get a lifr.. As it is, a lot of people report more even more rubbing with wide adapters to go with their larger tires.

Do all of the GX460's have the shorter wheel studs in the front (40mm) vs the rear (44mm) like the 4Runners?

Will a 1/4" wheel spacers fit in the front?

I have seen many threads on 4Runner forums that the fronts wheel studs sometimes aren't long enough to put on some wheel adapters.
Some people even say there isn't even enough bite to put on a 1/4" wheel spacers, but have to install longer 44mm or 50mm wheel studs on the front, even for adapters or some aftermarket rims.

Is that the case for us?

Jacket

The GX does have different wheel studs for the front vs the back wheels, but per this site the fronts are longer (45.4mm) than the rears (44mm). I can't imagine why the 4Runner would be different?

GXboat

I wish you were right but it sadly isn't so.
AdvanceAuto and everywhere else disagrees.

40mm front, 44.1mm rear

Front
Dorman Autograde
Part #610-266
M12-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud -
14.20mm Knurl, 40mm Length
Or
Dorman - Pik-a-Nut M12-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud - 14.20mm Knurl, 40mm Length
Part #98485.1

Rear
Dorman - Autograde M12-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud - 14.20mm Knurl,
44.10mm Length
Part #97206.1

some use the 44.5mm version for the Lexus RX
Dorman 610-312

Does the​​​​the 4mm+ make a difference going from 40 to 44? Our lugs are m12-1.50. That means there is a thread (rotation) every 1.50mm along the stud shank. 4.1-4.5mm is an extra ~3 rotations of a lug. If a spacer or aftermarket rim only allows 3-5 (unsafe), the longer stud would now give 6-8.

A lot of 4Runner people have issues with "some" aftermarket rims that have wider mounting flanges that only lets them get 3 turns/rotations on the front lugs (6.5 is a safe minimum).

the same with 1/4" spacers, but yet some people still put them on. I wish there was some definitive answer on how many rotations one can get with spacers on the front wheels. One guy reported only 3 so he installed some longer rear wheel studs up front to fit the 1/4" wheel spacers. Yet some others installed the spacers and reported no issues (but didn't say how many rotations they got). Anybody can check?

Case in point, just look at all of the photos of Spidertraxx installs and you can see how the nut holding the spacer to the hub is only halfway engaged in the threads!!! Anybody second this??? There just aren't enough threads, not long enough studs. I bet this can explain a lot of sheared off wheel adapters!!! Someone came up with using ET lugs (extended thread) lugs with the long shank that gets 3 or 4 more rotations with their adapters. Of course, you've got to make sure to get the correct lug style, whether conical/acorn/tapered or ball/round in the ET style. I don't know what the adapters use.

Unfortunately, ET (extended thread) style lugs don't exist for mag-style (w/washer) lugs that we use on OEM/factory rims.

Anyone with 1/4" wheel spacers can check one lug on the front and back? Just back one off and retighten, counting each full rotation until completely tight (mark one corner of the lug if necessary as an aid in counting if necessary). Also mention if OEM wheels or aftermarket. If I can get 6 lug rotations in front with a 1/4" spacer, that would be fine with me.

Jacket

I wouldn't put it past Toyota to have different specs in the US vs rest of the world. If you are really concerned about it, why not buy a set of rear wheel studs and install them up front?

I do have a set of spacers from my old Tacoma, but I'm not sure when I'd get a chance to pull the tire on our GX and test it out.

MCDavis

I cannot speak to the 1/4" spacers, cause man even hubcentric I don't like that idea.

I am however running 265/70/18 on 1.25" SpiderTrax with a 2" Dobinsons lift, and they do rub the plastics. No body mount interference though. Honestly, they shouldn't rub the UCA without a spacer at stock height, and the only rub if at all would be minimal and should only be at absolute full lock.

Carnevino

Are you using stock wheels? If so, why not just go with 275 65’s and be done with it.....unless you really want that .4” taller tire. You won’t rub on the suspension, but possibly the one screw (my 14 rubbed and my 17 doesn’t ). I hate wheels spacers, I literally almost died from one failing and the wheel came into the cab.

John00

changing the screw isnt much work. adding a small lift is way better than the wheel spacers. ive seen too many problems with the wheel spacers to not comment that they are a bad idea.

GXboat

It looks like I am getting 1.25" spacers. Ordered 4 for a whopping $35.99. Hubcentric with lip for 4runner(& GX).

You have the same tire I am putting on. Did you ever run them before the spacers?

When you say you are rubbing on the plastics, where exactly? Just the inner fender liner? What part? Did you mod it at all (push the front in or do anything around the area of the screw)? Heat gun? Cutting?

Do you have rubbing on the corner of the actual front bumper plastic??? I don't want to mess up a painted surface like that.

I just took out the infamous screw today...and the recessed rivet threaded retainer it goes into that tie the edge of the hard running board plastic to the more pliable plastic inner fender liner. I can easily put a flat push-pin rivet with retainer clip...tons come in flush head.

Beyond just changing the screw, it would help more if that area can be pushed/pulled back as I suspect most rubbing will be there, the other half to the bottom front of the inner well in front of the tire.

For those asking about why not get a different tire, maybe I should have but it's too late now. It was a great price and I'm hoping I can make it work.

Yes, the spacers are cheap. But more as a test or an emergency solution if I go to the tire place to mount the tires on stock rims without the spacers and they rub on the UCA and/or can't turn the wheels without sounding like putting poker cards in the back tire of a bicycle. If they are unnecessary or a mistake, I'm out $36. The tires I got are P-rated 116H 560AA 265/70/18 and 40lbs. Two other GX'ers with the same size had minor UCA rubbing (shiny spot with no apparent tire gouging) but not sure if mine will be less...or more. Every tire model is slightly different.

ASE

Going that tall on the sidewall with a P-Rated tire ... hopefully your steering response won’t feel like the steering wheel is connected to the steering rack with bungee cords.

MCDavis

Interesting that you mention this...
I'm running 265/70/18 Ridge Grapplers, and they're available in P and LT loads in that size. I emailed Nitto about the construction differences in the two ratings...7 plys vs 8 plys total. Both ratings have the same 2 plys in the sidewall, and the LT has one more (6 vs 5) ply in the tread. The LT has a few more 32nds of tread depth, but the construction is the same otherwise.
So, sidewall flex is nearly identical...treadwall flex will vary.

ASE

Nitto's are great tires ... with all tires not created equally. Load rating is probably the better indicator of sidewall stiffness ... but even that does not guarantee the tire will be responsive.

GXboat

The stock Bridgestone Dueler HT are load rated 109 / 2271lb @ 44psi
The 265/70/18 tires I am getting are 116 / 2756lbs @ 51psi, the same as the P-rated Falken A/T3W
The LT version A/T3W are 124 / 3525lb @ 80psi.

A recurring theme for these higher load ratings is that they are realized only at higher pressure. For instance, a P-rated Falken A/T3W and LT-rated of same size, both at 50psi, would have close to the same rating.
(i.e., 3525lb/80psi*51psi = ~2247lb at 51psi for the LT-rated, roughly the same as the 2756lb at 51psi for the P-rated)

That's not exact as LT tires actually should be inflated at 'higher" psi levels for equivalent load capacity as a P-rated tire. With so many people underinflating the LTs, even shops, I will just keep it easy with the P-rated and keep it at 36-38psi to stiffen it up if needed. If I towed, I would get LT. But I don't and LT tires ride a little too rough and are way too heavy. I just can't get the use out of them like some of you do with heavy towing and offroading. I've had dedicated offroaders. This isn't one for me...right now, at least. Everyone has their preference. I've ridden at 65psi and 80psi. It's not teeth-breaking rough but not a luxury ride either. A big thing also for me is that the tires I am getting are just 3lbs heavier than the OEM tires (not 18.3lbs extra lbs like a bfgko2 in the same size), so I am hoping acceleration doesn't take a big hit. DAMN!!! 55.29LBS FOR 265/70/18 KO2! I don't care much about mpg as much as I only get 15 combined anyway, mostly city, so a 5-, 10-, or 20-percent drop is still going to be a pathetic 12-14mpg, almost no difference. Acceleration difference would be more noticeable and important to me.

John00

same here, no real need for me on the LT
plus i like the cushy ride
comf mode
i like the old cadillac boat ride, so cushy is better for me.
im ok with slower turns

GXboat

The P-rated 265/70/18 are cushy and quiet. At 40lbs per tire (only 3lbs over the tiny OEM Dueler ht), acceleration is not at all affected (not that the GX was ever a dragstrip racer). I am running them at 36psi, but could increase it more as it is not at all stiff or rough. I may have to chalk the tires at some point to check the contact patch and figure out the most appropriate psi. I am kind of on my own in figuring this out as most people with big tires run heavy-duty, heavy LT tires for offroading.
This GX is pushed in corners and everyone knows how much it leans in corners at speed so I can't imagine ever putting a lift more than 0.5-1" for leveling just the front.
With the big tires, the slight factory rake actually looks ok, not nearly as awkward as before.

John00

Are the OEM lugs different lengths front and rear? If so is that for production or only for service parts? Sometimes there's a difference between OEM production and OEM service parts. I haven't seen anything that indicates different lengths and I don't see a reason for it.