I assume you have driven vehicle since reset or ECU disconnect for over 30 minutes above 25MPH?
I did, since resetting the code, and it popped up again. I'd attempt to try jumping the other wires for a permanent TPMS delete, but I'm not sure if the TPMS receiver/antenna unit is the same as the ECU and if not, where would the darn ECU be located.. Plus, assuming that 1 sensor is bad, not sure why the other 4 don't project the psi values in the app display ..
Acrad : Did you choose 'Tire Pressure Monitor' under the Enhanced Network from Settings and the run 'Rescan Supported PIDs' ?
That's what I did and then clicked on SAE PIDs under Supported PIDs and I'm not seeing the last screen shot you posted... posting my screen shots in a bit
On mine
- Connect to TPMS network
- Settings
- Vehicle Editor
- Tire Pressure Monitor (Enhanced Network should already be selected)
- At bottom of that same Vehicle Editor screen is the Rescan button. This won't show up unless the app is actually connected to vehicle through the OBD dongle.
All I can say is drop pressure in one and look for PSI change to determine which ID is which. That ID1 is definitely defective. I had one in an Infiniti years ago that read like 7-8 PSI low.
Sorted the IDs and found the culprit.. Now, since I still haven't located the darn TPMS ECU ( Why couldn't Lexus leave it in the same place as previous years !! ) .. I just might have them all replaced instead of the one that died only to have the rest follow suit..
Wondering if it's okay to go with after market ones over OEMs ? Also, is it fair to assume they will have to be programmed using TS ?
Okay so stopped at the dealer ( needed a road force balance... again.. sigh ) and while test driving with the tech, asked him about the TPMS ECU's location. He gave me a print out of it, and I'm attaching it here for future reference for anyone who may need it.
- Disconnected the unit ( just pulled the tab ), fired up the vehicle... and the TPMS light stayed on, but no CEL came up so .. yeah.
- Then, went ahead and stripped the yellow and red wires and connected a jumper, in vain !! Perhaps I should've tried other combinations, but in the process of stripping the yellow wire I accidentally cut it and was out of butt connectors so had to make a home depot run, and then had a work meeting so had to stop. Gah!!
- What I did do though after the failed attempt, was scan using the OBDLink MX+ and it showed a C2121 code ( No Signal from Transmitter ID1 in Main Mode ), and I cleared it..and the TPMS light went off once I restarted the vehicle. In hindsight, maybe I shouldn't have done this prior to working the other wires ( iirc, there is a dark *cherry* red, a white and blue, apart from the yellow and red one that did not work )
Quite sure the TPMS light will be back ( I hope it doesnt! lol ) soon enough and I'll be at it again. Perhaps, this time I'll make a video and take some pics of the process!
I am wondering if the TPMS receiver / antenna / ECU are all the same ?
Another reason you 2020+ GX owners are so lucky!
I have a 2019 GX460 - I tried several combinations and can confirm that jumping the GREEN and YELLOW wires leading into the "Tire Pressure Warning ECU and Receiver" in the 2018-2019 diagram you posted above disables the TPMS light on the dash. I did not plug the wire back into the unit. I just tucked it into the headliner unplugged and buttoned everything back up. I drove around for 15 mins after and the light did not come back on.
Here is a picture from my trials to show exactly which wires.
Quote from TheNomad:
From this I read that the TPMS signal wire is the Yellow and a 5V power wire is Red on my 2013 GX. Did I get that correct? Because I did the Yellow and pink and that is not working.
Quote from TheNomad:
From this I read that the TPMS signal wire is the Yellow and a 5V power wire is Red on my 2013 GX. Did I get that correct? Because I did the Yellow and pink and that is not working.
Yes, connecting the Red and Yellow worked much better.
My 2011 GX460. I bought aftermarket wheels without tire pressure monitor. I have the annoying tire pressure warning light on dash. If you're shopping for winter wheels, you can consider saving money by not buying the tire pressure monitors.
The signal needs to be 3.2v or higher for the dash light to remain off. There is a 5v antenna power source right next to the signal wire. We'll be using this 5v power source to trick our signal wire.
The TPMS computer is behind the driver side tail light.
Step 1: Remove the cargo net hook and the screw behind it.
Step 2: Pull back the plastic trim (held on by clips)
Step 3: Remove the 10mm bolt holding the TPMS unit
Step 4: Open the unit
Step 5: Solder pins 5 & 6 together
Step 6: Put everything back together
Alternate method: This job can be done without a solder iron. You have to join wires 5 and 6 together.
Peel back the insulation on wires 5 & 6 and jumper the two together. NOTE: Different model years have different color wires. Your wires may be different color than mine, but the position is the same (2010-2019).
DO NOT Cut the two wires to join them; the signal and 5v wires MUST reach the TPMS unit. Join the wires by splicing both of them and joining them with another short wire.
You can also join these wires via a switch if you want the option to turn on/off TPMS.
Adding a switch may be useful if your summer tires have TPMS but your winter tires do not.
Or if you like to air down for off-road trails, and only need the light disabled for trail use.
) .. I just might have them all replaced instead of the one that died only to have the rest follow suit..
and was out of butt connectors so had to make a home depot run, and then had a work meeting so had to stop. Gah!!
