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Resources for non DYI owner to check to see if one has this issue - or questions to ask shop when bringing it in for oil change?
If the shop check it when you bring it in that should be fine. But since every GXs seems to develop this issues sooner or later, depending on your mileage, I would get the gasket replaced as preventive maintenance.
I have seen some report that after a while if coolant buildup gets bad enough under there it can get to the knock sensor connectors and damage them....and or other related electrical components in the area
As stated above watch your coolant recovery bottle like a hawk and OBD temperature monitoring wouldn't hurt as well
If the shop check it when you bring it in that should be fine. But since every GXs seems to develop this issues sooner or later, depending on your mileage, I would get the gasket replaced as preventive maintenance.
I have to bring it in for the 90k service, so will ask the dealer to check. It is a '13 model but I still have almost 2 years left of the CPO VSA extension I added so if any issues they will have to fix it. I just wanted to see if I should check for anything myself to point out to ensure they actually do the check.
just finished doing the reapair myself. couple of tips.
buy every coolant hose that is under the intake manifold and replace while you are there.
my knock sensor connectors were so brittle they broke, the harness assembly can be replaced easily, if you are precise you can swap the connectors with a diff model toyota as the knock sensor connectors are standardised you just need a little pick to undo little tabs to remove/install the wires, thats what i ended up doing as getting the specific harness for the gx was going to take too long.
drain the block and radiator! you will loose over 2 gallons of coolant.
replace the rubber grommets on the pvc vent assembly there are 2 and easy to swap.
clean your egr assembly, you are likely to break loose carbon inside the tubes and might clog the valve, also the egr tube that goes into the intake manifold was almost clogged, about 80%.
it is definately doable with the right tools. harbor freight has "wobble" extentions that have a rounded end that give the socket just a little bit of play, these are invaluable, many times the bolts are just a little off and I hate using swivels.
undoing the clips on the wiring harness that is behind the manifold has been a hurdle for many, i found that when i did it after the engine was hot the tabs were 10x easier to manipulate, just dont burn yourself. also there is a crossover fuel line there too, just undo the connectors and lift it with the manifold, some suggest to unscew the line from the rear of the intake manifold but that seems like a pain.
you could pay 1500 to get it done but doing it yourself ensures it is done right.
This is very helpful, will bookmark it up if my collant valley leak gets bad and I end up doing this work DIY.
Currently its just leaking a gallon every 20k miles which I think is not bad.
How bad was your leak when you decided to replace the sealant?
just finished doing the reapair myself. couple of tips.
buy every coolant hose that is under the intake manifold and replace while you are there.
my knock sensor connectors were so brittle they broke, the harness assembly can be replaced easily, if you are precise you can swap the connectors with a diff model toyota as the knock sensor connectors are standardised you just need a little pick to undo little tabs to remove/install the wires, thats what i ended up doing as getting the specific harness for the gx was going to take too long.
drain the block and radiator! you will loose over 2 gallons of coolant.
replace the rubber grommets on the pvc vent assembly there are 2 and easy to swap.
clean your egr assembly, you are likely to break loose carbon inside the tubes and might clog the valve, also the egr tube that goes into the intake manifold was almost clogged, about 80%.
it is definately doable with the right tools. harbor freight has "wobble" extentions that have a rounded end that give the socket just a little bit of play, these are invaluable, many times the bolts are just a little off and I hate using swivels.
undoing the clips on the wiring harness that is behind the manifold has been a hurdle for many, i found that when i did it after the engine was hot the tabs were 10x easier to manipulate, just dont burn yourself. also there is a crossover fuel line there too, just undo the connectors and lift it with the manifold, some suggest to unscew the line from the rear of the intake manifold but that seems like a pain.
you could pay 1500 to get it done but doing it yourself ensures it is done right.
There’s also a fuel hose that will be brittle so I had to replace that too. Good to do while everything is off.
Loki my leak was probably about the same, just gnawed at me to get if fixed.
Acrad, yes that is the harness. and the fuel line connects the left and right side fuel rails and runs directly behind the intake manifold, the line is bolted to the intake manifold it with a single 10mm bolt.
these are the fittings
driver side
and matching fitting on the passenger side
also dont be like me and forget to depressurize the fuel system before you start tearing stuff apart. sure spits out alot of fuel if you dont lol
Thank you so much for this. You giving me courage to tackle this. Already Have parts sitting in the garage. I also ordered the wire harness.
Just so I don't damage the fuel fitting, is there a trick to disconnect the fuel lines. In the ih8mud , the fuel line was not disconnected. Did you disconnected it so you dont have to deal with the 10 mm holding it to the intake, (such that you removed the intake with fuel crossover still attached).
How would you depressurize the fuel system.
Many Thanks.
Last edited by ahmerx; 12-13-22 at 08:46 PM.
Reason: removed quote and clarified question.
Loki my leak was probably about the same, just gnawed at me to get if fixed.
Acrad, yes that is the harness. and the fuel line connects the left and right side fuel rails and runs directly behind the intake manifold, the line is bolted to the intake manifold it with a single 10mm bolt.
these are the fittings
driver side
and matching fitting on the passenger side
also dont be like me and forget to depressurize the fuel system before you start tearing stuff apart. sure spits out alot of fuel if you dont lol
11-17-22, 12:45 PM
