Comfort, but I don't notice a difference when switching.

 

Would you please go to your GX and turn it on. While it's on with the door closed, take a picture of your instrument cluster and post it?

Randy B

 

 

It is brand new. Take it back to the dealer for a balance and alignment. Transport/Shipping can affect the alignment.

 

Concrete roads can have that sort of driver effect. I'm not sure if it's the way the slab is grooved, or how it is segmented in the laying process, but I've experienced bouncing and steering issues on concrete in many cars I've driven: Land Cruisers, GX, MDX, Audi Q7.

Yes - you will experience a different ride on a BOF vehicle versus a unibody car, but there is nothing your dealer can "fix" as it relates to driving on certain types of roads.

 

Check lug nut torque (76 lb ft) and cold tire pressure (32 psi). It's likely not the cause but it's good to check.

A few of my lugs are not at spec and all of my tires were overinflated when I took delivery.

 

FYI, I went to Sears the other day and bought a 1/2" socket breaker bar and a 22mm deep socket in the event I have to change a tire and I can't remove the wheel with the factory lug nut wrench due to an overzealous mechanic with an impact wrench. The combo fits in the storage area with the first aid kit in the rear door.

Plus it's a reason to go to Sears and buy other tools.

 

I had this issue every other tire rotation, after a few attempts to fix with a standard balnce the dealer found that they need to do a Road Force balance and actually shift the the tire on wheel slightly. Not sure what causes it, but this has fixed the issue and i no longer get vibration. My tires are Bridgestone Dueler

 

I have noticed a few strange noises when I started leasing my GX a few months ago. One is a vibration that only seems to occur when I step on the gas, but is louder when stepping on the gas AND going up a hill.

The vibration and noise is coming from the front and stops when I take my foot off the gas. Lexus techs can't hear it yet, but I can. They told me to wait until the noises get worse.

Could it be engine mounts or the fuel injector?

 

Purchased a 2015 GX with 9000 miles on it. Practically new. Recently noticed that the car has as light vibration in the rear at low speeds <30MPH. You can't feel it through the steering wheel, vibration felt from the seat and the entire car is slightly vibrating. That said, you can still drive the car at high speeds and the problem doesn't escalate.

Any thoughts?

 

Recently went in for a reballlance and had a different sales rep that told me my cost was $177. My original rep stepped up and said no charge. The original rep knows that I have never been happy with the balance.

I still shake at 60 mph (5 mph give or take). I am sick of this and would be embarrassed if I have a passenger or let some one drive my Lexus. It is a work truck so this has not come up. I am wondering if there is something loose in the suspension? Two sets of custom made $4,000+ DUB wheels and two sets of high-end SUV performance tires and my steering wheel aggressively shakes and my seat vibrates with every attempt to fix this.

Buttler Tire said the wheels are Hub-centric (of course they are). I am pissed with my ride quality and not sure how to fix it.

 

I would like to jump-in to the conversation Gents. That mysterious 60mph front wheel/steering vibrations really annoyed me as well. After a dealership balancing, twice costco balancing, and twice discount tire balancing I might have figured out the issue. I would like to give some background of the wheel balancing efforts from the five different places first. The dealership probably used the basic type of wheel balancing. The two Costco places did not have the road force wheel balancing system. The first Discount tire place, they told me they road force balanced all four tires (don't go to this place: 2450 S. Melrose Dr. Vista, CA) but after going to a second discount tire location, they told me my wheels were way off-balanced - this place was in Las Vegas this weekend and I didn't like the fact I drove 300 miles with a lot of front end vibrations. The Melrose shop acted defensive when I was explaining how I wanted my wheels balanced and I didn't know why. Two weeks before that, they charged me approx $150.00 for swapping my wheels to aftermarket ones I bought somewhere else. I learned later on the tire removal should only been $7/tire. Mounting and balancing charge of $60 total, is typical. The Las Vegas discount tire shop were definitely honest and I don't think the Melrose shop put real effort to road force balance my wheels.

After the fifth wheel balancing attempt, at first and after driving for a few days, I noticed the front wheels and steering feel at 60mph seemed back to smooth and normal ride, the vibration was there but it was very negligible. Then one afternoon, on my way to my hotel in Vegas from a mall 15 miles away, the vibration came back at highway speed and I was pissed, thinking the wheel weights probably fell off again or I hit a big bump somewhere that I did not notice and screwed it all up. We drove home yesterday with some vibrations and as soon as parked in the garage, I cleaned the front brake calipers and pads and re-torqued the wheels to my liking. So far today after driving for 30 miles on I-5 which in my area, Oceanside, Vista, and Carlsbad where the roads are very rough, uneven asphalt pavement - my truck front end felt very smooth again! My brake pads are relatively new and somehow do not retract fully at times. I might have to have my brake system flushed later on also, but the key to getting rid of some of the wheel vibrations might be the brake caliper and pads cleaning. Specially when you know the wheel balancing was finally done right and all of a sudden the vibrations came back. I also raised my front end to see and feel if my front wheels have wobbles, thinking it could be a worn wheel bearing but I didn't feel the slightest play on the wheels when I tried to move them. I really hope the brake cleaning was the final fix for me, I'll give an update in a few months about this issue, or I'll post sooner if the vibrations come back again.

 

Thanks for the input LXGXSAM1. What was your cleaning method with the brakes? Are you saying that you think you had enough dirt and rust on the calipers and pads that cleaning them would fix a 60 mph vibration? You tested this theory on a rough road.

Sorry, but I don't get it. These parts do not rotate. Cleaning the brake rotor (that does rotate) maybe, but I think the odds of enough buildup on the rotor is highly questionable due to the small circumference and highway speeds will spin that off.

 

I agree with tecman, cleaning the brakes shouldn't do anything for this kind of vibration. Sounds like re-mounting the wheels might have done it? Is there something loose in the hubs maybe?

Seems like most of y'all have made several attempts to rebalance the wheels, so there's some imbalance in the driveline other than the wheels and tires themselves.

 

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Yes, the 30 mile stretch of testing in SoCal consisted of driving in very smooth, flat concrete and some stretch of really worn asphalt roads. I, too still can't believe the vibration only happened from 60mph to around 75mph, then all vibrations on the steering wheel dissipates. As soon as I had five wheel balancing done I began suspecting my wheel bearings and ball joints, brake parts, any any moving parts. I lifted the GX without removing the wheels and shaked the wheels and other moving parts. I checked for leaks, rubber tears, or anything that might look out of place and everything looked and felt normal.

Thank you for reading my blah, but I have to admit I was wrong with my assumptions about software or brake system issues. I realized this morning after doing some inspection of my wheels, brakes, suspension parts, etc that my "push-through" center hub cap was not fully flush with the back of my wheels. The hub cap is a push through type that you push out from the back of the wheel. The end of the metal hub cap where it meets the rotor face plate allowed for some gap. Apparently, the center cap had a protrusion of about half millimeter, which was thick enough to prevent a perfect contact between my wheels and the rotors. Tightening the lug nuts was not enough to have tight and flat surface to surface contact between my wheels and the rotors, allowing some wheel wobble at certain speed because of the gap. As soon I removed the center cap, all my steering wheel shake issues disappeared.

I have to bring up a question though, based on this pic below:

I noticed I only have the brake spring (inverted V looking wire) on the bottom part of my caliper. I know in the past, i have had vehicles with similar single spring setup and I have had vehicles with top and bottom springs present. I am just wondering if any of you have the top and bottom brake pad springs mounter? I don't want to think my dealer made some short cuts when they replaced my pads. Thanks for the feedback.