Looks like you are in CT - isn't that 7.75% tax since GX is over $50k? That is $4,100 in tax, let alone any other fiddly fee for the transaction. If you wait another year, assuming that equivalent GX drops $3k in value, take rate drops for you to 6.35% and you will save $1k in tax and $3k in depreciation if you keep your GX one more year. That is $4k banked, not including, as you say, way higher insurance etc. Consider keeping GX for another year and then reevaluating. I get worrying about the costs to repair, but there are for certain transaction costs that are easily in the same order as any possible repair costs that you face if you buy the '23 now.
Edit - oh never mind, I am seeing your more recent thread about being in MA. Still cheaper to keep the current one and hang fire on the newer one, but if you WANT the newer one, then of course just go get it.

 

^ ... most states offset the purchase price of the "new" vehicle by the negotiated trade-in from a sales tax standpoint ...

... not discussed ... on the 2011 with 167,000 miles ... there is the hassle of repair downtime, finding a trustworthy mechanic, getting a reasonable quote, repair being done correctly the first time ... and the (soon to arrive) crossover point where the repair(s) exceed the value of the vehicle.

The crossover point alone is enough to promote cutting bait if the OP wants a daily driver GX that will last 10-odd years or more.

 

Thought I would bump this with an update. After casually looking around for a 22 or 23 model and having no luck yet finding exactly what I wanted in my general area, I continue to soldier on with my 2011.

Well, yesterday I crawled under the front end and saw a fluid drip hanging on the underside of the vehicle. It’s bright pink radiator fluid. The truck is due for an oil change so I scheduled to bring it to my local shop next week and asked them to identify exactly where the leak is coming from. As mentioned in my OP, all parts on the vehicle are original so it could be the radiator, a hose, a clamp, or the valley leak (or something else). I also brought the car through an automatic car wash as winter is finally in the rear view mirror in CT and the wash included an undercarriage spray. Part of me thinks that the strong water jets may have caused something to crack or loosen. I suppose I hope it’s that and not a valley leak.

Any general sense as to costs for a new radiator replacement? Should I tell them to go aftermarket on a 15 year old truck?

Same question if it’s the valley plate leak. Expected cost?

The shop is talented but they do charge almost what a dealership does for labor rates. I have two nearby Lexus dealerships as well and can ask them for an estimate but I actually trust this local shop to do the work correctly more than the dealership having seen some iffy work and recommendations over the years.

I will provide an update once I get it diagnosed and sorted out.

Thanks in advance for any info or thoughts…