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I’ve tried three different kinds of H11 LED bulbs to replace my daytime lamps and none of them match my original halogen H11 bulbs. (2013 GX460) The primary issue is the spacing of the metal prongs. I found a couple threads about people replacing their daytime lamps but haven’t found any working links to bulbs that will actually fit. (Maybe I just don’t know how to internet, wouldn’t be the first time)
picture below. Halogen bulbs on top, led bulbs on bottom. You can see how different the prong spacing is.
[QUOTE=iwashmycar;[url=tel:11988676]11988676[/url]]I think they're 9005. Those have the wider spacing. Searching the Google, it states the '13 DRL bulbs are 9005.
9005:
]
Looking at a comparison of the two, you may be correct.
The manual calls out 9005 for high beams, but then Calls out type C bulbs for low beams which is then specified as H11 halogen further down the page.
So you were correct, good sir. Grabbed a set of 9005 LED bulbs and they worked right away. I should have known better to trust my own brain or the teenager at AutoZone who confirmed I needed H11 bulbs when I asked. Thank you!
Are they running at full or are they dim like a normal halogen During the day?
DRL using halogen on low power vs most aftermarket LEDS will be at full brightness on lower power DRL.
I see alot of this in PA with the Subaru crowd and it's really disappointing because the DRL function is no different that just driving with the highbeams on when using most LEDs or even HID kits.
Originally Posted by PennwestPatrick;[url=tel:11988971
11988971[/url]]Are they running at full or are they dim like a normal halogen During the day?
DRL using halogen on low power vs most aftermarket LEDS will be at full brightness on lower power DRL.
I see alot of this in PA with the Subaru crowd and it's really disappointing because the DRL function is no different that just driving with the highbeams on when using most LEDs or even HID kits.
They appear to be running at full power. That doesn’t bother me, but since they don’t require as much power as the original halogen bulbs, they have that weird super fast flickering thing going on. I’m looking into what’s needed to stop that, seems like there’s a couple different options.
Most Toyotas that use the high beams use a resistor that steps down the power of the high beams to use as DRLs, so thats probably the issue trying to put LEDs in their place. I have no idea how to bypass that on a GX.
something like that can also be made or bought.
a circuit can detect the change and then switch to the correct boost smps
actually some designs could use a buck config
I think it will depend on whether the LED chips/circuit allows the LED bulb to be dimmed.
I'm no electrical engineer, but as I understand it, non-dimmable bulbs = Full brightness or Zero lumens output.
I think it will depend on whether the LED chips/circuit allows the LED bulb to be dimmed.
I'm no electrical engineer, but as I understand it, non-dimmable bulbs = Full brightness or Zero lumens output.
yeah you could call them dimmable bulbs. the emitters are usually driven by a constant current circuit, but the emitters themselves are all dimmable if power is reduced.
so when you have a pwm drl switch there is a control circuit that lowers the emitter current which ends up a lower power and less lumens.
another method is a turn switchback, then use that for drl and disable the oem drl.
11988676]I think they're 9005. Those have the wider spacing. Searching the Google, it states the '13 DRL bulbs are 9005.
9005:
]
Looking at a comparison of the two, you may be correct.
The manual calls out 9005 for high beams, but then Calls out type C bulbs for low beams which is then specified as H11 halogen further down the page.
9005 is the correct bulb as the others stated. I replaced mine with 9005 for DLR and High Beam. Some models used H11 for low beam bulbs instead of D4S.