I purchased a set of Sport Headlight assemblies and boxed up my Originals. I have decided to modify my Orignals so I took them out of the box, cleaned them up. While doing so I noticed inside of the turn signal housings on the back of the lens on both headlight assemblies are melted. This is a good reason to have them turned off. If you want the safety of them, turn on your headlights and or fog lights. Too much heat from a incandescent bulb. LED might be okay... but burning all the time is gonna produce heat.

Oh crap! Is that visible from the front?

Yes, barely. I plan to sand down the area and buff it out best that I can. Hopefully that will minimize it enough to make it unnoticeable.

yes I know. That is how I noticed it. I plan to take these apart to modify them, so I was cleaning them and that’s when I found the melted parts.

I had the OEM incandescent bulbs. I changed assemblies last summer, turned the DRL off and put LED’s in. Looking from the front, it’s not nearly as noticable. There is zero distortion or markings on the outside of the lens. Once I sand down the burnt discolored area, it should be nearly impossible to notice.

I do not have a recommendation for a specific bulb, but I found mine on Amazon. I searched for brightness and good reviews. You will have to have resistors for LED turnsignals or you will get hyperflash. I tried buying a LED Flasher Relay, but the GX470 uses a 12 pin relay and all LED relays that I could find are 8 pin. So that means to get the signals to function normally, a resistor for each bulb is needed. Searching for bulbs that come with resistors is handy. I purchased switchback leds with hopes to wire the white side to use as DRL’s, but so far I have not been able to accomplish it without bringing back the hyper flash. I plan to do more work on it this summer when he temps are DIY friendly.
If you have DRL and the OEM style bulb, I would imagine the inside of your headlight lens is similar to mine. The dealership can turn the DRL function off, or you can purchase the VIAS cable and download the software and do it yourself. I did it myself after buying the cable and searching for hours to get the right software. I paid $30 on Amazon for the cable.

I don’t have the exact link that I purchased my Techstream software thru, but a little research will net good results. I had a difficult time getting the software up and running, but stuck with it and finally got it. I have read that older laptops do better than newer systems/laptops do. Before you purchase anything, do some research on here about the subject.
Here is a link to a Techstream cable. Please read carefully before you make any purchases, I did not check this out 100%, so use the link as an example.

Also, the ”trick” to getting a smooth finish is to wet sand the clear coat after it has cured. Layer up your clear coat, let it cure and wet sand. Start at 1000 grit, make your way up to 3000, then buff out with some compound, then buff with wax. Should look brand new. I’ve done this for years with tail lights and headlights. ( same method can be used to remove light to med scratches in your clear coat on the vehicle)

Awesome! Thank you!