I am having a loud Vacuum Noise coming from right passenger side. It's constant with the sound of the engine. When I rev it up it increases but doesn't go away.

A little Background.
First time it happened after I got the TB+WP+Tensioner+Pulleys replaced. I had CEL for VVT Solenoid and they troubleshooted and told me that PIN on the connecter was bent and they straightened it out and CEL went away. Regarding loud vaccum noise Service Advisor said that it was due to the Alternator running with high voltage trying to compensate for battery. Told me to change the battery. Which I didn't and the vaccum sound went away for good 6 months.

It's back now and constant from last 2 days..

Any ideas where to get started.
I can hear the noise coming from right side around the alternator area.

 

I don't have CEL ON just annoying sound. Did some investigation that sound is coming from under the intake manifold I took the filter housing out till the throttle body. Also check the suction which is very strong....

 

Follow the intake thru the fender - it's possible you've got some debris in there "whistling" and making the noise.

Chip H.

 

Yes I did take off the air filter housing all the way till the throttle body but the sound was still there.
Started the car up and sound was still there more audible from the top of intake manifold. Not sure if it was something dealer did while they did the timing belt. I am taking it to them tomorrow so they can diagnose

 

It's your alternator! I literally just went through the same exact thing this Saturday. The sound is not vacuum, its the alternator bearing, I think. Mine started about 4 months ago, then it went away or just not that distinct. Then went back and never went away 2 days before completely dying while I was driving the truck. Drove it for 12 miles with a dead alternator until I got it home then fixed it the same night with a refurbished one from AutoZone, and now all good.

 

Just talked to dealer and will be bringing it in to diagnose tonight. If its the ALT going bad i would not get it fixed there as i am sure they will be charging Arm & Length to for the new (re-manufactured) one.

Still have some questions if its the ALT why there is no noise coming from the Alternator itself.
My Battery is always charged and no issues with the load testing.
And it did that for the first time after i got the TB service done.

 

Could be the Secondary Air Pump. But that typically shuts off a couple of minutes after starting.

 

Organized Garage Status was right. I just got a call back from Service Advisor he confirmed that it is a bad bearing in the Alternator. Replacement cost will be $845. i will try to shop around and see if i can get it done for cheaper or possibly my self (Which i am not sure)

 

Dang this is good & bad news. I hear the same noise but only on cold mornings (didn't happen at above 20 degrees) after the first start & during acceleration then it goes away. It also started right after my TB/water pump change over a year ago and I assumed it was the air filter cover or some vacuum hose.
Thanks for the information.

 

Mine is a constant noise and yours goes away after 30 or so seconds. You might need to check some threads on secondary air injection pump. Below is the detailed thread on that to get some idea..
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28954

 

Just got the DENSO 2100607 Alternator
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....441481&jsn=341
from Rock Auto for $123 +72 Core Charge.

Will be getting some help from my Brother in Law and replace it over the weekend depending on Weather as it will be chilly.

 

It's pretty straight forward, just really annoyingly time consuming because of the amount of parts you need to tackle to get to it. Took me roughly 2 hours. There are no shortcuts to it.

1. Remove serpentine belt from alternator (I didn't even take the whole belt out).
2. Remove all 3 bolts to the engine block, plus 1 holding the wire and unclip the wire.
3. Alternator will not slide out no matter what, you'll need to take off the power steering pump pulley. It's not too tight and not reversed bolt either. Just jam the pulley with something in one of the holes to break the bolt loose.
4. Once that's off, you can slide the alternator out.
5. There's no way around this neither, the older GX's have a smaller alternator and may fit through the wheel well, but the replacement will still be bigger and will only go one way back in. You'll need to unbolt loose the power steering high pressure hose and move the A/C hoses aside to make way for the alternator. You'll also need to remove the passenger side bracket for the sway bars so you can slide it forward to squeeze the alternator through just enough.
6. Install would be reverse, but if you find a hard time reinstalling the sway bar bracket, play with the wheel hub with a jack to pull the sway bar closer to the frame.
7. Finding a correct angle to jam the power steering pump when tightening it may also be tricky, but it only requires 35 ft/lbs torque, so its not that tight.

Good luck!

 

Thanks so Much.

I will print those instructions as they will come in handy while i start work on it.

I will update once done.

 

If you are mechanically inclined, you can buy the bearing and brushes and do it yourself really cheap.

 

As this Job is even hard for some of the Pros... Off-course I and my BIL got stuck. After taking everything off we couldn't figure out how to remove the power steering pump/pulley. We gave up right in the middle and called the guy off of Craigslist.... Yes Craigslist.... This guy got to our place to take a look and ask me if i want to get it done right away since it was open.. He got to it removed the power steering pump and disconnected the radiator hose. After that he got the alternator out from the bottom (a lot of knuckle busting) and put the new one back in there and helped us put the Serpenting belt back on. Rest we finished the Job and the LOUD VACCUM NOISE is gone.

Next it Radiator Replacement and off-course I am calling the same dude to do it.