RCsGX

Since they never specifically answered the question the only way to know 100% is to measure the Arnott shock when fully extended and compare that measurement to our OEM rear shock fully extended. If they're the same you're fine, if they're shorter you could potentially damage them when the rear is fully extended in the "HIGH" position.

RCsGX

Found this tonight. Both are OEM parts that LXs / LCs use. You can choose from 2 types:

• 58839-60020 blank (approx. $10)
• 58839-60040 pocket (approx. $12).

RCsGX

Received a response back from Bilstein regarding Arnott's valve specs:

"Unfortunately, it is a proprietary part built specifically for Arnott, so we can't give out valving information for it."

So like the age old question, the world may never know....

ALAN553

Arnott should be answering the question if they want to promote their products,,right.? Let them explain the specs...if they will

RCsGX

I've tried numerous times, it doesn't get any more straight forward than thisI doubt they care to explain and because they've ignored my same question time and time again, I wouldn't believe them even if they did say they were valved differently especially now that I know 100% Bilstein can't confirm it.

Lets say they are valved differently, shims + black paint doesn't equal a 100% increase in cost compared to 4Runner 4600s. So to me, at the end of the day these still aren't worth the money for what you're getting. Now that I see a GX owner put on a set of 4Runner rear shocks, that cost $35 a piece I might add, you'd be crazy to spend $400 on those Arnotts.
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/pr...853080372.html



My

gxman1

RC,

You are referring to Brad's post, what do you think he got away for $80 total. I think he will lose sport/comfort along with height control. I really dont care much for height control since it is for very low speed and resets it back when you are doing normal driving.

BradTank

I was suspicious from the get go about this package and it being "custom." That's why I ended up replacing the rear with OEM Toyota 4 Runner shocks.

Bilstein will custom valve shocks for customers, so it's not a crazy thing to claim, I just think they're using off the shelf Bilsteins. And my guess is, even a custom valved "softer" Bilstein will likely still be stiffer than an OEM Toyota shock made for an SUV.

At the end of the day, the worse case scenario if you don't like the OEM Toyota shocks is you're out about the cost of a tank of gas and 45 minutes of your time. It seems a pretty safe bet to me.

spoogie

So am I to understand that you would put these on the front and rear of your GX?

http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/pr...853080372.html

Also, my GX has the original suspension with 172k miles on it and rides fine. At what point do the shocks need replaced?

RCsGX

Whatever aftermarket shock you use in the rear you will loose the sport / comfort settings but you will still be able to raise and lower the rear VIA the height control switch. The only time you loose the ride height function (raising and lowering the rear) is if you remove the airbags and use coil springs.

For $80 that's a great deal and if it's as good as stock seems like a no brainer.


The shocks in that link above (villagetoyotaparts.com) are for the rear only.

At that mileage they're well worn. If you aren't experiencing a rough ride / bottoming out I'd say leave them until you experience either one of those scenarios.

I replaced my shocks at a little under 120K miles and while they weren't leaking they were definitely tired and easily compressed by hand.

BradTank

I'm almost certain your shocks/struts need to be replaced at that kind of mileage if they're original, even if it's only been on smooth, paved roads. It's almost like saying you have 90k miles on the same set of tires. It's a wear and tear part that's just not set up for that kind of mileage without replacing.

The problem with shocks and struts going out is it happens slowly, it's usually not a case where all of a sudden the car starts bouncing all over the place. So it's harder to tell they've gone out.

If you're happy with the ride, I guess you can carry on, I'm sure there is still some dampening action going on with those original, but all that extra bouncing around is probably not good for the rest of your suspension and will likely wear it our quicker.

RCsGX

Normally I would say they are too but several 4Runner guys w/ the XREAS suspension have close to 200K miles and they're still working fine with no bottoming out and no leaks. Most people don't know their shocks are bad until either a part breaks on the shock or it looses all of it's fluid and you're riding on your springs or in our case airbags.

stiles_s

I replace with new OEM at about 60k because of visible leakage and more bottoming-out in the rear than I wanted.

What surprised me was how much smoother and more supple the ride was w/the new shocks. The wear characteristic of our shocks seems to be that they get "harsher" but at the same time become less able to damp/control large body movements.

FWIW, I continue to run in an odd config where I've unplugged my rear shocks and have left my front shocks plugged (remember, OEM front & rear, now with about 30k on them). The rear is far more predictable now that I've unplugged the "brain". And, I'm still able to adjust front stiffness a bit to my liking.

spoogie

They aren't leaking and ride fine. So which shocks for the front?

RCsGX

Not sure, try and do a search on that site. Make sure you find the one that is not an XREAS shock, you need the standard shock.

spoogie

About to replace all the shocks. Is it more economical to switch to coils (or some other mod) at the same time? And which coils should I use?