no. is there a write up on it?

 

For more clarity,

 

 

thanks for the procedure RC. Probably will do the brake fluid the old fashioned way. Did the PS fluid today and was a piece of cake. Also did the brake pads and the caliper bolts were a bear to break loose, but got them. Greased all the bolts up and the shims and should be good to go for a while.

 

The front is just like any other vehicle but on the rear all you need to do is put the ignition to the "ON" position, hold down the brake pedal and have someone open the bleeder...you don't need to pump the pedal first.

 

Rc, where are you getting the factory service info? Is it something anyone can purchase?

 

good luck with that question

 

Yes, anyone can purchase it. It's $15 for a 2 day subscription.

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo....toyota.com%2F



I've said where I get them several times, the most recent was a week and a half ago in the thread below.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...ml#post8382451

 

I think I'm going to do this - why is the car jacked up? To allow the wheels to freely turn? It seems like everything is done from the top.

 

Jacking it up allows wheels to turn easier, not necessary, but easier. The entire process shouldn't take more than 20 minutes. everything is done from top.

 

Power steering flushes are one of those procedures that shops are always pushing and should be called wallet flushes.

Hydraulic fluid is not something that constantly needs to be changed, it's a closed system and its main purpose is to provide pressure, like the fluid in a hydraulic jack to raise your car. The owners manual doesn't even mention flushing or even changing the power steering fluid, it's just to inspect it.

Personally, I would recommend against doing a complete flush or having a shop do it. I think you're far more likely to not fill it properly or get air trapped and cause damage by trying to completely drain the system.

Just taking something like a turkey baster, draining the reservoir and refilling (with some miles in between) a few times is easy and less likely to cause issues. And it takes about 30 seconds each time. Also, I would stick with Dex III that is recommended on the cap. Again, I think it's safer to not try and get that last 1% of old fluid than to flush and risk not getting all the air out and it running dry.

Just a stock photo to illustrate:

 

I like your idea! Simple and the fluid will get 'renewed' over time. (Just don't let the wife know what you're doing with her turkey baster!)

 

There's more than 1% left in the rack. As long as you keep the reservoir filled while letting the old fluid run out there's no way to run it dry. As long as whoever is doing this understands that you NEED to keep the reservoir filled, you can even fill it to the very top just to make sure you have extra fluid, this is not a overly complicated job to do.

And FYI a turkey baster will not fit. The hole is a 1/2" under the power steering cap. Best bet is to buy a cheap hand held fluid extraction / evacuator pump.

 

+1 for using a hose and syringe. Empty & refill the reservoir, drive a day or two, repeat until satisfied.

Chip H.

 

I did this today and ended up only putting one quart in. Did I do something wrong?

I moved the wheel back and forth until the stuff coming out looked like the new stuff. I'm not sure I got the wheels all the way to the right and all the way to the left, since I didn't jack up the car. Does that matter?

I think I"m okay with just getting most of the black stuff out, but next time if it can be better, that's great!

For those who just swap the fluid in the reservoir, that's probably like 1/4 of the total fluid.