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Heater not working

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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 10:42 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by IanB2
I'm guessing you have a blockage in the heater core, might be fixable via flushing theheater core, I'd flush you're entire coolant system at that point though to get all the old stuff out, so it doesn't happen again.
I gave it a flush. I pulled the plug on bottom of the radiator and refilled this passed Sunday.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 10:46 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by anon1m0us
I gave it a flush. I pulled the plug on bottom of the radiator and refilled this passed Sunday.
That sounds more like a drain & fill than a flush, to flush the heater core you'd have to unhook one of the hoses through the firewall to the heater core and flush (push water through), then I'd remove the other and reverse flush as well to get any blockages out. I'd do the same with the rad, and the rest of the coolant system till all the old stuff is out, then drain, and refill with new coolant and distilled water. Tap water contains minerals that can react with coolant to create solids that will cause blockages in the rad and heater core.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 10:47 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mrblister
You can enter the diagnostic mode by holding climate button and recirculate at same time then turn ignition switch to on [ do not start the engine ]

1) Simultaneously press and hold AUTO and recirculated air
switches. 2. Turn ignition on. All indicators will flash 4
times, at one-second intervals. Tone will sound when indicators flash.
2) A/C system will enter self-diagnostic mode. To end
indicator check, press and release OFF switch. Read codes at
temperature display.

The diagnostic will test all of your actuators that open or close for various heat & air controls.


I recently ran mine 2004 gx470 and I got two codes that were # 21 # 24 These are sensor errors you will always get those. ** especially in low light if you run test and its dark in bright sun light it may not give you those codes

You can also after its run through its diagnostic sequence press the temp button up and you can then repeat the test one at a time for every press of the temp button it will advance from 0 to 9

Nice to know this procedure if ever needed, thanks!!
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 10:49 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by anon1m0us
I ran the DIAG, and it says 00--which is normal
So with no error codes and your ac heater system is still not working I would think the logical next step is to drain and flush out your coolant system and to get to the thermostat is not that big of a deal.. If you invest in a thermostat and coolant and do it your self your investment would not be waste of money because if that does not fix your issues then the heater core may be the problem
and that is a major job.

I know you said it blows cold have you tried to run the compressor by switching on the ac. ? See if that might modulate the temp ? Just thinking out of the box. Do you hear any gurgling in the air filter area under the glove box ? That might indicate coolant flow or lack of it. Good luck
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 10:55 AM
  #20  
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You messed up something within your cooling system when you did your flush. Maybe you have air in the system? I'd drain the coolant and start over and bleed it correctly and go from there.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RCsGX
You messed up something within your cooling system when you did your flush. Maybe you have air in the system? I'd drain the coolant and start over and bleed it correctly and go from there.
I think when you ask for help on the forum its best to tell us what you did before so we all know.
I was not under the impression that you drained and refilled your system. Did you have no heat issue before you drained and refilled ? I would agree you might have an air pocket in your system
there have been other posts about this. Some people who have done there own coolant change have heard the gurgling I asked you about and that points to air in the system.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 11:31 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by RCsGX
You messed up something within your cooling system when you did your flush. Maybe you have air in the system? I'd drain the coolant and start over and bleed it correctly and go from there.
That's another good possibility, could be an airlock in the system from the drain/fill that doesn't allow flow through the heater core.

You could try putting the temp control on full hot (to open the coolant valve), and park the front of the truck up on ramps/curb/whatever to get the nose elevated, so the air can work its' way through the system to the highest point, the top of the rad, and get displaced by coolant. Run the engine like this for a while, squeeze the coolant hoses, and see if you can get it to "burp" the air out.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 11:33 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mrblister
I think when you ask for help on the forum its best to tell us what you did before so we all know.
I was not under the impression that you drained and refilled your system. Did you have no heat issue before you drained and refilled ? I would agree you might have an air pocket in your system
there have been other posts about this. Some people who have done there own coolant change have heard the gurgling I asked you about and that points to air in the system.
Agree. If he had heat before flushing the radiator, it is almost certainly an air bubble issue. Some cars require a special procedure to 'burp' the air out. My Hondas have a bleeder port that has to be opened with the engine running and radiator cap on. You open the valve and keep it open until a steady stream of water flows out with no air bubbles present. If not done correctly, there will be no heat. Lexus may have something similar.

Also, if the temp gauge reads 1/2 scale, after warmup, there's nothing wrong with the thermostat. There is warm water in the system. Look elsewhere for the problem.

Edit:
Found a video
Do make sure the engine is warm and thermostat is open and heater full on. Burping can get a little messy! Hose things down when you are done and after the engine cools.

Go directly to step 12:

http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/20.../flush_coolant

Last edited by 470reasons; Dec 17, 2013 at 12:01 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 12:52 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 470reasons
Agree. If he had heat before flushing the radiator, it is almost certainly an air bubble issue. Some cars require a special procedure to 'burp' the air out. My Hondas have a bleeder port that has to be opened with the engine running and radiator cap on. You open the valve and keep it open until a steady stream of water flows out with no air bubbles present. If not done correctly, there will be no heat. Lexus may have something similar.

Also, if the temp gauge reads 1/2 scale, after warmup, there's nothing wrong with the thermostat. There is warm water in the system. Look elsewhere for the problem.

Edit:
Found a video
Do make sure the engine is warm and thermostat is open and heater full on. Burping can get a little messy! Hose things down when you are done and after the engine cools.

Go directly to step 12:

http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/20.../flush_coolant


I had NO head BEFORE the flush. I did a flush hoping this would resolve the issue which it did not.

Curious, the driver side vent, the one near the window only does blow some warm air, not hot.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 01:06 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by anon1m0us
I had NO head BEFORE the flush. I did a flush hoping this would resolve the issue which it did not.

Curious, the driver side vent, the one near the window only does blow some warm air, not hot.
That does sound to me like a blocked heater core to me, if you're lucky it can be flushed, if it requires changing it's a pretty big job, it's under the dash inside the cabin. You can buy kits with garden hose fittings to make this easier to DIY, otherwise you're stuck taking it to a shop, it's pretty messy, especially in winter.

http://www.prestone.com/products/print/461?popup=1
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 01:07 PM
  #26  
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[QUOTE=anon1m0us;8285227

Curious, the driver side vent, the one near the window only does blow some warm air, not hot.[/QUOTE]

That would seem to be an indication that the controller that opens and shuts the various vents to direct air to the proper locations is failing to do so.
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 01:28 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by lesz
That would seem to be an indication that the controller that opens and shuts the various vents to direct air to the proper locations is failing to do so.
Where is this controller that i can test to see if that is the issue? Would the controller control just one vent?
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 01:44 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by anon1m0us
Where is this controller that i can test to see if that is the issue? Would the controller control just one vent?
If the controller [ actuator] was failing that should show up in the diagnostics you ran. Try running it again see what you get
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Old Dec 17, 2013 | 02:14 PM
  #29  
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Did you see this thread in the RX section
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...old-air-3.html
Might help
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 07:27 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mrblister
If the controller [ actuator] was failing that should show up in the diagnostics you ran. Try running it again see what you get
When the engine was cold, the error code was 23.

Once the enginer warmed up, it went back to 00.
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