Airbag light on only when sitting in drivers seat
It's extremely hard to see without removing seat and I'm not prepared to remove seat. The dealership did tell me they can return it if it's not the right part. Just restocking fee. Considering how many sensors go bad it may be it. 140k miles on it
4 bolts to loosen the seat, then just tip it back against the rear seat so you can see underneath. I'm guessing you'd need to do this to replace the sensor anyways.
I'm surprised the dealer would accept an electrical part as a return. They usually won't do that.
+1 for removing the bolts and tipping it back. Be careful not to snag/tug on any of the wiring.
Chip H.
+1 for removing the bolts and tipping it back. Be careful not to snag/tug on any of the wiring.
Chip H.
ok so here's the culprit. Both cables unattached and broken at end. I think this clips into the sensor. So million dollar question, how can I reattach the cables?
That looks like it was cut.
Normally you'd use a pin insertion tool to remove the bad pins, then crimp new pins on the ends of the wires and use the tool to insert the new ones back into the connector body.
You'll lose some wire length, so check that there's enough slack afterwards. Otherwise use a longer piece of wire on the pin, and crimp it to the ends of the wiring harness.
Obviously, this is a safety critical circuit (controls whether the airbag goes off and/or how hard it inflates, so a passenger could be at risk if you get it wrong) so be sure to get the right wires in the right pins, and make good solid connections.
Chip H.
Normally you'd use a pin insertion tool to remove the bad pins, then crimp new pins on the ends of the wires and use the tool to insert the new ones back into the connector body.
You'll lose some wire length, so check that there's enough slack afterwards. Otherwise use a longer piece of wire on the pin, and crimp it to the ends of the wiring harness.
Obviously, this is a safety critical circuit (controls whether the airbag goes off and/or how hard it inflates, so a passenger could be at risk if you get it wrong) so be sure to get the right wires in the right pins, and make good solid connections.
Chip H.
Okay dumb question maybe but I just got this Lexus. So is there any issue with airbag inflating if I don't reconnect sensor and drive around few days until this can be fixed? I will need to get someone to do it as I ordered sensor but don't know if it comes with extra wires attached. I see you can buy the connector and wires online but don't know part # to search or order.
I would look for one from a parts yard. Tell them you need that connector and as much wire attached to it as possible, so that you'll have enough to crimp to the existing body harness. Get one from the exact year of your GX in case Lexus made a running change to the system during production (which they do).
If you take it to the dealer, they will want to replace the entire harness (because they would have the liability) and that would be thousands of dollars in parts + labor. But you would have a warranty.
No idea what would happen if you drove with it disconnected - most likely it would set a SRS code that you would need the TechStream software to clear. If you do this, don't allow anyone to ride in that seat.
Chip H.
If you take it to the dealer, they will want to replace the entire harness (because they would have the liability) and that would be thousands of dollars in parts + labor. But you would have a warranty.
No idea what would happen if you drove with it disconnected - most likely it would set a SRS code that you would need the TechStream software to clear. If you do this, don't allow anyone to ride in that seat.
Chip H.
I have the exact same issue, both wires sheared at the pins. Lexus wants $72 for the replacement belt buckle with harness. I tried to pull the pins out using the insertion tool but found the original pins are molded into the connector and offset so no go. There is a repair connector available from Toyota that will work, but it isn't an overly cheap fix either ($35). Part number 90980-12194 is the connector housing, and you need two 82998-12720 which are new pins with about 4" of wire on them (at least for the 2004), the replacement connector housing is straight through, just slide the housing on the wires with pins, then splice and slide the pins into the connector to lock into place. I'm going with Chip H's idea of hitting the junkyard, going to a U-Pull it with the old connector and will find one somewhere with some longer wire on it, I need some other minor trim stuff anyway.
So the junkyard idea didn't work. Not many 470s out there and although that waterproof connector is used on many vehicles, they are all in severe service and every one was history. Ordered the parts from the local Toyota dealer, $53 reduced to $42. Should be in tomorrow morning, I'll let everyone know.
So this was a bust so far. Got the parts in and the parts guy only ordered one wire. He ordered the second and I got it today, charged me another $25 for it so now $67 for this little connector. Installed it and, still have the light, checked the code and still the 1153, sensor. I'll pull it apart tomorrow and start ringing it out with the meter, probably a bad sensor as well as the bad connector. I'll keep you all posted.
According to the troubleshooting steps in the service manual, it's still the seat belt. So after the local Toyota mispriced the little connector and wires (total $67), I ordered a new seat belt for $49 including shipping from myLparts.com. Hopefully that's it but I have had very little luck diagnosing and repairing this vehicle. I'll keep everyone posted.
So after 3 tries it was the seat belt assy. Wasted $67 on the connector that was torn off only to pay $49 plus shipping for the entire buckle assy. I would advise anyone with a SRS code B1153 to just but the buckle assy..
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elite7
LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006)
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Feb 13, 2014 06:38 AM








