Hey there, So I've owned this 2003 GS430 for almost a year now and I'm encountering the check engine light. When it first came on I almost lost it and thought the car would be ruined or something but got over that

Took it to a local shop, they performed a smoke test on the car and found that there were leaks in the gas cap, which they replaced, and from a part called the "EVAP Pressure Solenoid/Switch". The actual part number is 25860-50100, which google returned as the "Vaccum Switch Valve". Now the shop said they couldn't get the part for almost a month or so, and the car was safe to drive. To my luck, I find that this part is available in a few online places so I have the option of buying this myself and having the shop install it (I'd love to try to do this myself, but don't know if this is beginner level stuff since it's related to the engine light?).

Of course there's a reason I'm posting about it! What are the chances it could be something completely different? The car is driving fine, and I inspected whatever I could visually with my untrained eye but saw no tears or holes in any of the hoses and pipes through the hood, but not below the car where I'm sure a lot of it could be. It will be a $200 a repair in total including the part and labor. Is there anything else I can do to verify that this repair would solve the check engine light? It feels weird driving around with the VSC OFF light, and I could be paranoid but the car seems to slip on turns a bit now.

 

common problem in these cars when they get old. replace that thing and its done.

 

Have been looking for a DIY for a while now tonight, let me know if anyone knows one. I've only found some for the charcoal canister one which is in the rear of the car, not this which is in the front to the right of the engine block.

 

Removal (GS300 & IS300)

1. Intake Air Control (IAC) valve is mounted underneath middle of air intake chamber. Remove A/T oil dipstick and guide. Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect noise filter connector. Disconnect engine wire clamp from bracket. Remove bolt, bracket and noise filter. Remove bolts, nuts and intake air connector to air intake chamber.

2. Disconnect power steering air hose, vacuum hose from No. 2 vacuum pipe, and vacuum hose from Intake Air Control (IAC) valve actuator. Disconnect accelerator cable. Remove bolt and accelerator cable clamp. Disconnect EVAP hose, bolt and clamp. Remove air intake chamber and gaskets. Remove IAC valve from air intake chamber.

3. If servicing vacuum tank or ACIS vacuum switching valve, remove vacuum tank from intake manifold. Disconnect ACIS vacuum switching valve connector. Disconnect vacuum hoses from air intake chamber, vacuum tank and vacuum switching valve. Remove ACIS vacuum switching valve from vacuum tank.

Installation (GS300 & IS300)

To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten all bolts and nuts to specification. .

 

Thanks for posting this information. I have already replaced the valve on top of the intake, at the canister, but I have never replaced the valve under the air intake at the ACIS. Lately, my check engine light has been coming on. I will have a look at this tonight when I get home. I peeked on my lunch and it seems easier to get to from the bottom of the vehicle. I have code p0441 and p0446.


**UPDATE** If you don't have the code below don't replace this.

P1651 VSV ( vacuum switch valve ) for ACIS ( Acoustic Control Induction System )

 

Any instruction on how to replace the VSV above the engine?

 

I believe I am having the same problem. Same code. So let us know when u replace it and how u did it. If it corrects the problem

 

It's a 20 minute replacement job. It's held on by a 10 mm bolt. I had to get mine from the dealership. Rockauto only has the VSV at the canister (under the rear) not the one on top of the engine. I hope this helps.

 

Wow I can't imagine this being that difficult - that guide is extremely helpful man this is exactly what I needed, even if it takes me an hour lol. some noob advice needed before I attempt this and possible ruin my car.

1) Don't have a engine cover, done check that off!

2) Do I need to disconnect the battery?

3) Is there a special way to disconnect/reconnect hoses and VSV connector? Any certain order? Anything I should be mindful of?

4) Is there a way to test the part to see if it works before I do this? I saw some threads mention using a 9V battery somehow.

5) Once the part is replaced and wiring/hoses reconnected, what should I do then or how do I know if the repair worked? Would it just clear the CEL ?

I really have to thank you guys for all this I'm confident this is something I can do with a little advice - just found the replacement OEM VSV on eBay for $50 brand new.

 

Alright! Part got here pretty quick, gonna try to do this fix this weekend. Any one have a little time to answer any of my questions above? would be awesome! Flying blind here...

 

It's really not bad at all:

-Gather your tools
-Disconnect the negative terminal from your battery.

1. Remove the engine cover
2. Locate the part (on top of the engine, near the driver side)
3. Remove the blue connector (pull on the connector not the wires to avoid damaging the wires)
4. Notice the hose layout (take a pic if you have to)
5. The hoses at the vsv might be hard and brittle, so be careful not to snap them. It's a good idea to replace those sometime in the future anyway, if they are hard. A brand new hose should be somewhat flexible.
6. Remove the bolt securing the vsv in place. It will come right out with no problems.
7. Install in reverse order.
8. Reset/delete/clear the dtc/pcode with a obd2 scanner/reader from the port beneath the dash, if you have one.
9. If not, disconnecting the battery will also reset/clear the code.

You can do it. Just go slow and work smart. Don't be racing to finish. Don't be yanking hoses without knowing where they
belong for reinstall.

This is about a 20-25 minute job.

 

wbmx1981 Incredible man. This seems actually possible to do now lol!

Ques.. why disconnect battery? And once I disconnect negative (black) cable, it should clear the code right (not necessary to do again after reconnecting VSV and battery?)

For hoses, do I just tug on them or twist them off? Is there a certain way? If I feel the hoses are hard, I'll probably not do the job because I don't want them to snap and then I can't even drive to the mechanic.

 

Alright guys wish me luck I'm about to either fix or ruin my car in 5 mins.

 

I did it! Took almost an hour and a half because I went really slow scared to break stuff. I took pics and will post a DIY with the instructions I got before.

One funny thing, I put everything back in started her up and no CEL lights, turned off, went back under the hood and bam I had disconnected a hose by accident that I didn't put back in and took a while to get it to fully connect.

I guess only putting on some miles will tell but for now all CEL lights are gone, I assume this fixed the error code.

 

How do you perform a smoke test to find leaks in the gas cap?