I need to replace my front wheel bearing. It doesn't seem difficult so I want to do it myself. But I have a feeling the devil is in the details..
Can anyone share the official torque specs for 4 mounting bolts (below), if such spec exists? Or should I just do it 'with love'? (can I reuse old bolts? (4k mileage))



Is anti seize lubricant required between this and the knuckle?
How about the threadlocker?
Any specific lubricant and threadlocker you can recomend I should use here?

Thanks!

 

No lubricant or thread locker. Don't know the exact torque spec it is generally between 65 and 75 pound feet but wait until someone provides the exact spec. You must use a torque wrench here. You don't need to replace the bolts.

 

Thanks LeX2K! Hopefully someone can post the torque spec for these 4 bolts..

 

 

I just installed one this weekend on my passenger front side 2013 GS350 Fsport. Not hard to do once you get the wheel off. I always turn the wheel left or right to get to the caliper bolts. Depending on the side you're working on.

You can get to 3 bolts like this on the wheel bearing. The last one you may have turn the wheel straight to get your socket on if using a ratchet.

Once all bolts removed I just whacked it with a hammer good twice on the stud flange.

The bore will have corrosion built up. So clean that out with some fine sandpaper.

Once done put hub back on with 4 bolts. I used Loctite 242 thread locker and torqued to 51 ft lbs.

As for runout I dont have a dial indicator. So I just mount the rotor back on. With the lug nuts slightly engaged, and same for unloaded caliper. Then spin the rotor by lugs, and eyeball it for wobble.

Once finished I torque down the caliper bolts down to knuckle calls for 100ft lbs. I also use thread locker on these bolts too.

Last put your wheel back on, and torque to 76 ft lbs in a star pattern.

Symptom of bad wheel bearing was grinding noise with the slightest input left or right. While driving straight no noise present. I ordered the NSK wheel bearing from RockAuto. As for the Timken was twice as much, and also bears the same NSK bearing stamped on it while looking at the stock photos on RA website.

 

The FSM does not prescribe any thread locking compound for any of the bolts, and they don't show the bolts as single use with a factory applied thread lock. I wouldn't bother if you trust your torque wrench. Lexus trusted their torque tools and you got this far without making disassembly just that much harder the next time.

The caliper bolts are especially really not fun. They need a lot of force in a very confined space. I just did the brakes on the wife's car and I was cursing a lot because I couldn't get my big torque wrench into where it would work, so I had to pull stupid hard to get to 135 Nm.