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Well that is good and possible bad news. Good news is at least the fuse status (unburnt) matches what you are seeing.
Since all the lights are off on that circuit. And you appear to have 12V to the left side of the circuit, that leave the right side. Which goes to a single pin on one of the ECU. So it's possible something is going on with a) the collective connection to pin 20 of that ECU or b) something with the ECU itself.
I have look around for how to get to that ECU.
Well that is good and possible bad news. Good news is at least the fuse status (unburnt) matches what you are seeing.
Since all the lights are off on that circuit. And you appear to have 12V to the left side of the circuit, that leave the right side. Which goes to a single pin on one of the ECU. So it's possible something is going on with a) the collective connection to pin 20 of that ECU or b) something with the ECU itself.
I have look around for how to get to that ECU.
i havent touched the right side at all. should i go ahead and the panel off? anything i should look for or test?
or maybe is there another wire that i can tap into
Last edited by khangbun; Aug 18, 2023 at 07:22 PM.
Sorry, what I meant was the right side of the circuit. Basically the "negative" side. In the circuit picture the left side (side of the fuse/battery) is the positive, and the negative is the right side (going to the ECU pin 20). That is what makes it dim.
Sorry, what I meant was the right side of the circuit. Basically the "negative" side. In the circuit picture the left side (side of the fuse/battery) is the positive, and the negative is the right side (going to the ECU pin 20). That is what makes it dim.
I'm not even sure what to do even do at this point sadly. thought this was just going to be an easy mod lol, but it seems it's not the case for me
Well, it seems the Main Body ECU is a bit hard to get to. It's in the dash, near the driver door.
The manual just lists two more diagnosis steps, but you have to disconnect connector N13 from the ECU.
1. Checking resistance between pin 20 of N13 of the connectors to the ECU and the negative terminal of the light connector (to make sure there is a good connection). Pin 20 should be a red wire.
2. The other check is measuring resistance between the light connector negative and body ground. It should be 10k ohm or higher. I'm guessing this is just to make sure there isn't a short somewhere.
After that, it just says to replace the whole ECU.
Maybe while messing around with the wiring, the negative took static shock, possibly damaging that pin?
As a bit of a hail Mary, have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few mins, then connecting and slowly initializing by pushing the start button once without foot on brake and letting systems come back online for a minute or two, then pushing start again, the starting the car. Just to see if things get reset.
