I still use the puck so the jack doesn't scratch up the crossmember which could cause it to rust.

 

Yes, a motorized impact wrench makes wheel removal and nut fastening so much quicker and effortless.
I have several torque wrenches because I like to fasten my bolts and nuts to the correct manufacturer specifications.

Just me, but I like nice looking annodized aluminium hydraulic jacks, stands, and pinch weld adaptors - because I like to keep my tools clean, and free from rust and oil.

 

My contribution to this thread... before I knew the puck came pre-cut, I got a hacksaw blade and went to work! Been using these for more than 10 years.

 

2 engine swaps and 2 transmissions / year on average.

Not a single power tool except for the ugga-dugga for those extremely bastardly nuts and bolts.

But I have actually ordered a Dewalt battery impact. See if that speeds it up a little bit.
Probably my most expensive tool.

 

Because my jack stands have smallish square heads, despite creating a slot/channel through the puck for my pinch welds, the GS's pinch welds still split my puck into two pieces.

 

The puck is for the floor jack not jack stands. You need some other adapter. I don’t put the jack stands on the pinch weld on this car, they bend to easily. The silly thing is the pinch weld jack point on my last 2 cars, Honda’s were much more reinforced and you could jack up the car without a puck. The ones on our car is much thinner and easy to bend.

 

I bought my aluminum jack stands nearly ten years ago, and back in those days, IcyBishop's small rectangular adaptors in his link below were not available, so I had to purchase a puck and cut it into a small rectangular block with a Stanley knife.

 

What are the inside measurements of these? Do they support the weight on the bottom of the pinch weld or on the outer two upper rails?

 

The exterior is 50 mm deep x 28 mm wide x 24 mm high.
The resting pad is 35 mm deep x 28 mm wide, for the jack stand.
The internal slot for the pinch welds is 50 mm deep x 11 mm wide x 13 mm high.
Width dimensions do not include the two external screws.

Yes the pinch weld is suspended in the air and supported by the two upper rails.

 

Thanks for that!
So it seems once they are fitted the resting pad is only marginally below the actual level of the pinch weld. That would preclude me using my jack stands as they are the V type and not the flat ones you have.

 

No. I told a lie.
I just fitted them to GS.
The GS pinch welds actually touch the bottom channel of the U-shaped annodized aluminium adaptor.
However, the U-shaped channel adaptors are fastened to the pinch welds by two screws.
Thus, the top two U-shaped channels rails do not actually support the sill above the pinch welds.

 

Thanks for checking.
I was hoping the pinch weld was not touching just like the manufacturers scissor jack. Seems the measurements are so varied I might just try the rough and ready hockey puck or continue using the stands as is.

 

Here they are in place.
They have never bent my pinch welds.

However, when not used, my flat headed annodized aluminium jack stands flatten the pinch welds in my other cars.

 

Thanks for the hint for tonight's entertainment! This was awesome to watch, I give the guy credit for having the ***** to post it, especially with the number of folks who then used the video to make fun of him. I guess he's probably making some money off the ads.

The couple vids after showing what he went through to get it fixed were a fun watch too....

 

This may be a dumb question but where is the proper place that the jack should be applying pressure as its lifting? Is it the edge of the pinch weld itself or the area at the left and right "base" or sill of the pinch weld? As you mentioned, the oem scissor jack does not touch the pinch weld therefore the pressure is at the left and right sides of the base of the weld.

I've ordered a few rubber style adapters for both the floor jack and jack stands and they touch the pinch weld instead of the area around it. As the weight is placed on the jack and rubber puck, the rubber seems to conform but not sure if the pressure is all on the edge of pinch weld or the left or right base.

I could easily deepen the slot with a dremel but not sure if necessary or do I want to risk weakening the structure.

I changed the oil on my wife's NX with no issues but want to be extra sure before using on my GS.