Pushes the caliper pistons in so you can pull out the pads.

 

U can also use pliers to do it. A big one not needle nosed pliers.

 

Do you need C Clamp to get new pad in?

 

No, once you compress the pistons, they stay in till you step on the brake pedal...

Look, you are only using the c clamp, or a pair of channel locks to push in the pistons to make room for the new pads....the new pads have more pad material on them, so they won't fit until you compress the pistons into the caliper...then you can drop in the new pads

 

300 miles and my wheels and calipers are still clean.

 

As your old brake pads wear down, the pads become thinner and thinner, and since your brakes are "self-adjusting", the piston automatically extrudes to compensate for the thinner pads.

However, once you remove the old thin worn down pads, you must use a G-clamp to push the twin pistons back into the callipers, so that you can install your brand new thick pads.

This is a G-clamp:



This is a C-clamp:




Because we tend to push the pistons in too much with the G-clamp, after we mount the brake callipers onto the fixed hub, there will be a big gap between the brake pads and the brake disc.
That's why after a brake pad change, the first time we start the engine, the brake pedal will feel soft and long travel, and it will sink all the way to the floor, without actually engaging the disc!
Don't panic.
Repeatedly pump the brake pedal several times to extrude the twin pistons, until the brake pedal feels firm and short travel, and the pads engage the brake disc.
Normally, the pads will be in light contact with the disc.

.

 

It's great isn't it!!

 

I'm hearing growling noise from my brakes when flooring the brake pedal to a complete stop, in other words, forced stops. It feels like the brakes are slipping. Is this normal for ceramic pads? Are the pads still breaking in or ABS kicking in or my discs are glazing?! Cause I checked everything and all look good, the pads are in the right place.

Braking at speeds feels normal and buttery smooth and no noise, it's only when coming to a hard stop.

Also I noticed that there is a ring on my disc, it looks like the pads aren't touching the inner part of the disc surface, is this normal?





The rear pads covers the entire area.

 

Usually normal for other cars. I'm not 100% sure on the Lexus.. I know my last car.. on the fronts and rears.. the pads would miss a small section on the inside. Also depends on the brake pad and the company that makes them. Not all brake pads are exactly the same size even if they will fit that certain car.

The issue that you're listing above is one of the reasons why I'm not too keen on getting ceramic pads. It has been a hot debate issue since the beginning of time really.. I want to see other peoples input on how well these pads have been holding up. I love how you don't get any brake dust, but what exactly are the trade offs?

I heard if it rains or you drive through a puddle the pads can warp and etc and stopping power isn't as great as if you were to use a semi metallic brake pad. Like if you were to have to stop on a dime in order to avoid rear ending someone. If that's the case.. then i'd rather just deal with the brake dust and get the OEM or some hawk hps pads.

 

That's the thing I'm having now, when u try to stop on a dime it feels like it's slipping! I don't think it's the ABS kicking in cause there is no light, I think it's the pads that are not able to grab the disc well.

Under normal driving/stopping it's fine but when u really need to stop.. it slips.

 

I hope other people will chime in too. I just want to be sure for when I do purchase new rotors and pads. If that's the case then I'll for sure not get ceramic. Stopping when you really need to stop is what really matters the most when it actually comes to it

 

It also happens if I floor the brakes from 5 mph to a stop. Basically it can't stop on a dime.

And also there is a little squeal when braking in reverse, like reversing out of a parking spot.

I'm gonna try to switch out the pads in and out and see if it makes a difference.

 

I'll try to do some hard braking after work in a parking lot to test mine out. I think I had to do a hard stop on the freeway the other day, but I didn't notice any slippage. And I def don't hear any noises or issues when reversing either.

Not sure if it makes a difference, but I had my rotors turned when I switched to these pads. I think I read that you guys didn't.

Will update tomorrow after my braking tests.

 

Yea I didn't have my rotors turned. Maybe it's the glazing from the old pads since I did mine at 13K miles. I think the other guys did it early on.

 

You don't have to turn them every time you replace the pads though. Read that they recommend you clean off the rotors and sand them down with some fine grit sand paper before putting them back on with the new pads. Did that with my old car whenever I changed the pads out.