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What you see there is one of the engine's block drain plugs #3. Just turn the brass-looking bolt clockwise; that will stop it from dripping.
The torque spec for tightening the bolt is 9ft-lb. If you can't get your torque wrench in there, then just snug it with a medium pull. There is one more engine's block drain plug on the right side of the engine block, See attached photo.
You might have replaced your waterpump prematurely if the vehicle still has low mileage. If it doesn't have low mileage, then that's okay as long as your replace water pump is OEM.
Wow, thanks for the diagram and explanation. It was leaking when I took off the alternator for replacement with 140k miles so I searched and thought that was weep hole so I replaced the water pump and auxiliary parts. Upon removal of the water pump pulley, there was dry cruds on the weep hole under the water pump shaft so I assume it's bad and went a head and replace it.
Any idea why that brass bolt came loose ? What tool is needed to get in there since the alternator is back in? Thanks.
Last edited by SilerACS; Dec 16, 2024 at 09:01 PM.
Took off the alternator again to tighten it with 1/4 drive 4" extension on 10mm socket. Can't reach it without removing alternator and have to use 2 hand( 1 to feel bolt and 1 to guide socket in).
Can't believe they did that and wonder how they reach it and not doing alternator or water pump. Any chance Lexus didn't tighten from factory?
My 2008 5.7L Sequoia had a longer dowel installed in the rear main seal housing from factory so the housing leaks on almost all 2008 Tundra, Sequoia so the fix was to replace with shorter dowel or grind down current dowel. Can you call that factory defect?
Thanks for your support. Happy holiday.
Last edited by SilerACS; Dec 16, 2024 at 08:58 PM.
Coolant leaking help.
