hvargas

So I'm getting a strong vibration from the front of the car when I'm braking at speeds 80KM+.

I had these exact same symptoms before... and what resolved it was changing the front rotors (along with brakes). I can't remember exactly but this would've been 20-30K KM ago (less than a year ago). Is it possible that the rotors are once again giving issues? So frustrating... but any input would be appreciated

MX73

Possibly. What kind of rotors are you using? I find that OEM rotors are "soft" and tend to warp. I noticed it a lot on Japanese brand vehicles (Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Mazda...)

If you have a straight edge, check to see if the rotors are indeed warped.

hvargas

Thanks for quick reply!

Uhhm they're these Raybestos: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1873530&jsn=3 and the corresponding model for the other side.

Just checked... I installed in early September last year.

fb182

What type of brake pads are you using?

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

Rotors warp when there is lots of heat being built up and getting cooled right away. For instance you do hard breaking on the highway and right away you wash your car at a car wash. Sometimes they can fix themselves by driving hard on them and over time the pads help run it true.

But if its to the point that it bothers you then you can take off the rotors and have a machine shop true/cut the rotors on a lathe.

gs350fan

Yes, rotors can warp, get deposit/transfer buildups, rust jack(rust on the hub surface) etc. Very likely in the salt belt too.

It is also possible the hub itself has a bit of runout, I just dealt with this on a Crown Vic and ended up installing a new hub assembly (ours are similar integral units). You need a dial indicator on the rotor and hub (a professional shop or you can buy one for under $30). Sometimes you can reindex the rotor to matchmark the rotor relative to the hub. The spec is .002-3 of total runout for the Crown Vic, should be around there for ours too. No shop in upstate NY even has a lathe to refinish rotors, because by the time they need that they are already trashed from the rust.

hvargas

I believe they were Power Brake but can't remember which line exactly. It was a kit on eBay and I remember the package said they were Power Brake brake pads. I ended up purchasing separate Raybestos rotors

Hmmm I feel like it would just be cheaper to purchase new rotors if I went this route lol. Don't think it's a common service up here in the Toronto area. But your first suggestion makes me think maybe it was possible with the daily winter highway driving I was doing...

Hmmm I'll keep this in mind... I guess it would explain the reoccurence?

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

Ya true never noticed how cheap aftermarket rotors are for our cars.

hvargas

Bringing this thread to life because I continue to have these issues.

Replaced the front and rear rotors/brakes back in August 2018 with this Centric set: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1434545&jsn=1

Within 1-1.5 months I started to feel light vibrations from the front of the car. Over time the vibrations became much stronger but once again I would only really feel it when braking at 80KM+.

One thing my mechanic noted when changing the rotors back in August was that the front-left caliper mounting bolt was really tight... I don't think this would directly affect braking but I always wondered if it could actually be my calipers and not the brakes that's the issue? Is it possible that the rotors could warp after only 1-1.5 months? How could I tell if it's the caliper or the brakes themselves (or something else) causing the problem?

Hoping to find a solution to this

gs350fan

I believe our front calipers have pistons on both sides (Correct me if I'm wrong). The bolts may not come into play, but a piston could be sticking. You are in the salt belt so anything is possible.
Vibrations during braking are likely warped rotors. Check your hub bearing for play and possibly all the front end components(ball joint, tie rod), can't hurt. A bad hub bearing could beat up a rotor.

1) Check the pads. Is one side worn more than the other? If so, the caliper sticks and probably has to be replaced or rebuilt.
2) Put a dial gauge on the rotor. How much run out did you measure?
3) Read my post above about the crown vic. Put a dial indicator on the hub (close as possible to the edge) after you pull the rotor. What is the runout?
4)Inspect mating surfaces for rust.

hvargas

Thanks for this. I'll prob ask my mechanic to do a proper inspection before I buy any parts.

energie8

hvargas

Hmmm I did this back in August and you're right, it did fix it. But it came back after a month or so (gradually at first and then becoming stronger). Is it normal for rotors to warp so quickly?

How long ago did you change your pads/rotors and what brand did you use?

gs350fan

Brand don't matter. You could have gotten a bad part, or you have runout/stuck caliper, etc. Must be professionally diagnosed, or DIY if you know what you are doing.

coolsaber

Dont have an idea on the specific type of caliper you are using, but how does the caliper look in terms of hardware? Did the brake change include specific care on prep like removing rust spots on the hub, proper greasing of slide pins, no grease on the clips but underneath them, and grease on he piston face specific points on the caliper bracket, wheel lug torques, caliper piston face, seals etc.

Usually high speed brake wobble is traced to some kind of wheel specific issue in the parts above. The chances of getting bad rotors and pads twice in a row in a year is slim.