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***DIY: Wheels stud replacement (with pics)***

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Old May 27, 2012 | 11:47 AM
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Default ***DIY: Wheels stud replacement (with pics)***

A few weeks ago when changing my front pads, I broke a wheel stud. My torque wrench was acting up and I over-tightened one of my lugs and 'pop' stud broke right off. While I was at the Lexus dealer getting a recall done, I inquired about the cost to replace - they wanted $150 I thought this was laughable. Other basic tire/wheel shops wanted at least $50 to do the job. As I do most work myself, I figured this is something I could easily tackle. Total cost was ~$5.00 and 5lbs of water weight as it was 95 degrees! Below is my experience in doing this. I would rate it on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult probably a 3.

Disclaimer: Attempt at your own risk. This is the method that I found most useful and efficient – yours may differ and may not be the exact as described herein. As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This project should be construed as theoretical advice.*I will not be held responsible for any injury due to the misuse or misunderstanding of this*DIY project.

Here we go:

Remove negative battery cable as well as the cap to brake fluid reservoir










Loosen lug nuts before jacking the car. Broken stud is at the 3 o’clock position





Jack the vehicle at the frame and place the jack stand at the grooves (pics below)















You can see the broken stud in the picture below. Remove brake caliper (in another DIY thread) – two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper. Now hang the caliper with a zip tie to the spring. Do not let it dangle by the brake line.








Remove rotor – should come right off. Here you can clearly see the broken stud.





Take a hammer and knock out the old stud from the front it should pop right out the back.





Here you can see the old vs. new





I purchased a set of 5 Wagner studs (BD60956) from Amazon.com. They were $5.00






Insert new stud. Place a washer between the new hub and lug nuts. Here you are going to need to use an air wrench to drive the lug nut onto the new stud to pull it into position and seat it into the hub. Without an air wrench you cannot prevent the hub from spinning. The washer protects the lug nut and hub from chewing each other up.








Finished product.






Reverse the steps earlier and reinstall everything to spec.






There you go! I also put these steps into a PDF. Good luck!
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Old May 27, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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Good job. Very informative and clear. Thanks.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:51 PM
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Why are you removing the battery terminal and the cap for the master cylinder?

I've replaced wheel studs before and never had to do this.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GSteg
Why are you removing the battery terminal and the cap for the master cylinder?

I've replaced wheel studs before and never had to do this.
Great question. When brake fluid moves in the opposite direction it will throw codes. This is discussed it other threads related to changing brake pads. You should remove neg cable because you need to compress piston to remove caliper. It prevents the codes. Whenever you compress piston you should remove reservoir cap.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 10:38 PM
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Any chance you can post the link about disconnecting the battery when doing a brake job? I searched but there's a crap load of threads about changing brakes.

My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon016
Any chance you can post the link about disconnecting the battery when doing a brake job? I searched but there's a crap load of threads about changing brakes.

My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
Let me search for it. Your thoughts may work fine but it takes two seconds to disconnect battery. I figured why risk having codes and a trip to te dealer to reset. The disadvantage is having to reset power windows and sunroof.

Last edited by alchemist; May 27, 2012 at 11:18 PM.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 11:00 PM
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Nice write up!!!
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Old May 27, 2012 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon016
Any chance you can post the link about disconnecting the battery when doing a brake job? I searched but there's a crap load of threads about changing brakes.

My thoughts would be leaving the car off, push the caliper pistons back in, and after finishing the job, pump the brake pedal a bunch of times before starting the car and everything should be ok.
Here you go.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-pads-but.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ease-help.html

Last edited by alchemist; May 27, 2012 at 11:15 PM.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Noojiin
Nice write up!!!
Thanks Noojiin
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Old May 29, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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Thanks for the links!
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Old May 30, 2012 | 07:19 AM
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Nice write up and pictures.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by GSteg
Why are you removing the battery terminal and the cap for the master cylinder?

I've replaced wheel studs before and never had to do this.
yeah Henry, this 3GS is sensitive, gotta unplug the - battery when brake caliper need to be removed...

nice DIY Op!!!
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by masboy
yeah Henry, this 3GS is sensitive, gotta unplug the - battery when brake caliper need to be removed...

nice DIY Op!!!
Thanks masboy!
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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Nice writeup, thanks. I assume there is an electronic brake sensor that requires pulling the battery cable? I always open the brake bleed when pushing the calipers in, phobia about pushing brake fluid backwards in the system.

I need to replace a rear stud, it looks like a little more challenge with the drum parking brake inside the disk brake. Anyone have any experience with a rear wheel stud?

Mine is an '07 GS350 awd.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 09:08 PM
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Good write up! I've broken a stud before was a pain in the *** to fit! Though i just used a power drill to do this... How do you like those front calipers? I have the same ones and not sure if theyre giving me problems with pedal being soft.... I've recently changed out my rears because they were seizing... theyre still seizing but im about to put anti seize, also paint them! Cant forget to paint the front ones too.
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