Installing an aftermarket amp & subs
03-15-12, 07:13 AM
#16
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Hey thanks for the reply! How exactly are you hooking up your RCA inputs to your 1000bd? Also, what do you mean by " i hooked it up with some thing that was like 30.00"?
03-15-12, 10:18 AM
#17
the high low is what he is talking about. It a cheap way for you to add a sub without having to use summing devices and other equipment. I have the JL audio set up and you need the clean sweep and 4 summing device for it to be done right. The summing device are for the fadding from left ot right or front to back and you can't do this is without them if you replace everything. I see that you just want to add a sub so a High/low is a great way of doing it, but if you plan on adding more in the future than the Jl, or audio control is your best bet.
03-15-12, 02:18 PM
#18
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the high low is what he is talking about. It a cheap way for you to add a sub without having to use summing devices and other equipment. I have the JL audio set up and you need the clean sweep and 4 summing device for it to be done right. The summing device are for the fadding from left ot right or front to back and you can't do this is without them if you replace everything. I see that you just want to add a sub so a High/low is a great way of doing it, but if you plan on adding more in the future than the Jl, or audio control is your best bet.
03-15-12, 03:12 PM
#19
I can try switching things to that fuse. What i have now is a wire that goes from that fuse box to the backish of my trunk. It then splits off and one wire goes to my amp terminal and one goes to my summoning device. Is that good enough or will i need to actually bring the remote for the processor to the amps remote terminal?
The constant and the ignition of the summoning device are definitely not together. Another thing to think about is that when i disconnect the remote wire from the fuse box COMPLETELY, as in there is no remote wire connected to the vehicle, the amp and processor are off until i turn the volume up. Then they both kick on if a good amount of sound is put to the processor and again, the processor's constant is NOT hooked to the remote of the processor. Its like they almost dont need a remote except its obvious when it kicks on and sounds like crap when it does so id prefer to hook a remote wire up. In my (very novice) opinion, i feel like i need a device that will allow a positive charge to go through one direction but not the other. Im not really sure if something like that exists but the closest thing i can see to that is the remote turn-on module here.. I will try changing the fuse to the radio and maybe that will work though.. If not, i can order this and if it doesnt work, no biggie, its only $13.. Thanks again for all your help Joeker, really appreciate it!
The constant and the ignition of the summoning device are definitely not together. Another thing to think about is that when i disconnect the remote wire from the fuse box COMPLETELY, as in there is no remote wire connected to the vehicle, the amp and processor are off until i turn the volume up. Then they both kick on if a good amount of sound is put to the processor and again, the processor's constant is NOT hooked to the remote of the processor. Its like they almost dont need a remote except its obvious when it kicks on and sounds like crap when it does so id prefer to hook a remote wire up. In my (very novice) opinion, i feel like i need a device that will allow a positive charge to go through one direction but not the other. Im not really sure if something like that exists but the closest thing i can see to that is the remote turn-on module here.. I will try changing the fuse to the radio and maybe that will work though.. If not, i can order this and if it doesnt work, no biggie, its only $13.. Thanks again for all your help Joeker, really appreciate it!
03-15-12, 03:21 PM
#20
the high low is what he is talking about. It a cheap way for you to add a sub without having to use summing devices and other equipment. I have the JL audio set up and you need the clean sweep and 4 summing device for it to be done right. The summing device are for the fadding from left ot right or front to back and you can't do this is without them if you replace everything. I see that you just want to add a sub so a High/low is a great way of doing it, but if you plan on adding more in the future than the Jl, or audio control is your best bet.
I do agree that audiocontrol makes a good unit for your price range under 250. Rockford fogate 3.sixty.2 is also a very good unit. If you have money to spend, I'd go with an Audison bit one(very pricey but well worth it if you really care about sound)
03-15-12, 05:46 PM
#21
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the hi/low is great! it keeps the stock mids and highs and i added my sub! thats it. it sounds 100% great! like a damn night club. especially since the sub is LOUD! lol save your money for now and just get the converter in. i also removed the stock sub for more flow into the car. not sure if it made a differance but worth a shot!
03-15-12, 05:49 PM
#22
I dont know why you would need 4 summing units unless youve dedicated an additional two for no apparent reason? You need the the cl441dsp main unit and two CL-ssi summing units. One summing unit for the fronts, and one for the rears. I can't imagine having 4 summing units in addition to the main unit as 2 alone already take up a lot of space. I would also have to disagree, JL does not make the best sound processor. As far as space is concerned, it takes a lot of room. Also, to properly tune your signals, utilizing the cleansweep, you will need an RTA.
I do agree that audiocontrol makes a good unit for your price range under 250. Rockford fogate 3.sixty.2 is also a very good unit. If you have money to spend, I'd go with an Audison bit one(very pricey but well worth it if you really care about sound)
I do agree that audiocontrol makes a good unit for your price range under 250. Rockford fogate 3.sixty.2 is also a very good unit. If you have money to spend, I'd go with an Audison bit one(very pricey but well worth it if you really care about sound)
Last edited by swtjlsy; 03-16-12 at 10:18 AM.
03-15-12, 06:13 PM
#24
the reason you need so many is so you can fade right to left and front to back that why. the fosgate is over priced and the audio control is cheaper than the clean sweep about 4100 cheaper. I do audio install for a living in the past and want to keep my system as stock as possible and as far is space is concerned it all in how you install your system. JL doe not make the best processor but it cheap and most members on here are not trying to win a ISAC comp so they will not notice the difference.
03-15-12, 11:42 PM
#25
I had no issue fading and balancing fronts and rears with only 2 summing units. i had that setup and it was fine. anyone from JL Audio will tell you the same. I know because i was in touch with them for months. Maybe the cleansweep is easy for you, as you are an installer and may have an RTA handy. Most of the members here don't. AudioControl Lc8i's are less than $200 brand new. A cleansweep + 2x summing units will run you close to 300 dollars
03-16-12, 06:54 AM
#26
I'm not saying it a easy install it just take time. you answered you own question front to back with 2 front to back and right to left with 4. total my cost was around 550 for all 5 units audio control is around 200-300 total and easier to install JL is designed for the more experience installer. A RTA is not need unless you are tuning the vehicle comp. RTA are a pain in the butt to use and the imaging of the car is all about design of system. Placement is key to making sound work with a RTA.
03-16-12, 10:15 AM
#27
Ok so I'm going got give you your first car audio installer lesson Each unit control output control one set of speakers unless you wire them to together so they control both front. The Jl auido ssi have 3 outputs so it can be used as a 3way 2 way or 1 way all depends on your install. If you have the ML in your car the each speaker has it own led so then you have to hook up a ssi to each led you plan on using. The ML 2 speakers in each door or side of the cabin so you would need one ssi summing device for each corner of the car. This is what allow you to fader front to back and left to right. If you still don't understand I'm sorry it simple math this is not a easy install by any mean requires time, right tools and understanding of how summing devices work.
11-20-13, 01:25 PM
#28
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Ok so I'm going got give you your first car audio installer lesson Each unit control output control one set of speakers unless you wire them to together so they control both front. The Jl auido ssi have 3 outputs so it can be used as a 3way 2 way or 1 way all depends on your install. If you have the ML in your car the each speaker has it own led so then you have to hook up a ssi to each led you plan on using. The ML 2 speakers in each door or side of the cabin so you would need one ssi summing device for each corner of the car. This is what allow you to fader front to back and left to right. If you still don't understand I'm sorry it simple math this is not a easy install by any mean requires time, right tools and understanding of how summing devices work.
11-21-13, 07:36 AM
#30
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Lol yeah I actually started it last night. It took me forever to run the wires cause I was having trouble with the stupid gromet and the back seat trim panel. I couldnt take it off without snapping the clips so that wasted an hour there.
