Originally Posted by CurlyG

Good to hear Dutch0ven! With these 2-decade old cars, many rubber and plastic parts have lost their elasticity, and became brittle. While you're in there replacing the valve and tubing, it's a good idea to inspect all of the other accessible lines/tubes.
If you're highly motivated, it pays to buy several feet of vacuum and oil/gas rated tubing of different diameters from the autoparts store, and do a systematic replacement of all air, vacuum, and coolant lines. I've learned to avoid the flashy, colorful "silicone" vacuum lines sold online, as they are often too soft/weak, and the silicone is not rated for oil or fuel (unless the silicone is fluorosilicone, aka Viton, which is rare/expensive).
Slightly off topic, I've also had luck replacing broken-off air (plastic barb) fittings on plastic intake bodies with hardware-store-bought plastic (nylon/PP) barbed fittings (sized for the hose), and with threaded opposite ends. Ideally, the OD (outer diameter) of the threads should be slightly larger than the ID (inner diameter) of the broken-off fitting hole. Then drill the hole to size (just smaller than the OD of the new fitting's threads), and thread the new fitting into the hole. I typically add 5-minute epoxy to the threads, and around the threaded hole, to seal any gaps.