Aeok18109

any update on any codes it has? have you cleared them and restarted the car? are your coil packs on the correct cable (mine were not after I soldered up new connectors and wires)

make sure the firing order is correct
coilpack goes in 2 4 6
wires go from
2 to 5
3 to 4
1 to 6
also make sure your timing is correct

TensorWorl

The annoying part is there are no codes. I had a TPS code when I forgot to plug it in but I plugged it in and cleared codes and it's not come back. I took everything apart one wire/coil pack at a time so I am pretty sure it's all correctly wired but I've made dumber mistakes. I am currently taking it apart again and I'm going to replace the wires as far down as I can. I am really hoping something will happen that will suggest I'm on the right track. If it did what yours did where it starts but runs poorly at least I know it was the wiring and I just need to track down the proper firing or something like that. Right now I am not even 100% sure this is the issue.

Aeok18109

take a video on your phone and upload to YouTube. post link here.

I replaced connector and made sure the STRIPED WIRE went closest to the release tab. I replaced the entire section of wire with 16g going as far back to near the oil cap.

make sure you're getting a SOLID connection click when you put the connector on the coil pack. they can be real picky. all my factory wiring was brittle and broken in the taped up harness. I took a fine razor and slowly picked it all off to separate wires from harness and spliced in new sections. solder heatshrink and electrical tape are your friend.

what kind of OBD 2 scanner do you have. make sure it can read live data. the cheaper ones won't read a damn thing

TrueGS300

I just re-read your original post. You have more than one GS? And the ability to swap over parts? And you still haven't got it to run? Have you at least swapped the igniter like I said first? It's two screws, the easiest module to replace. This controls the coils you are messing with.

TensorWorl

I'll get a video later this week when I have time. I want to have video of several different things. With/without engine starting fluid and maybe something else.

I have tried several scanners. Cheap hand one, one that feeds live data to my phone, one that reads ABS/SRS/other codes. All seem to think the engine is fine. At least as much as I know how to use them. Which is to say I'm not a noob but I'm not an expert either.

I actually think I have 6 GS's at this point. 2 parts cars, my daily, this car, a white one I haven't decided what to do with and another 99 that I'm going to swap a 2JZGTE into as soon as I get this piece of **** running and out of my carport.

I've tried changing out damn near everything I can think of. Igniter, coils, spark plug wires, MAF, throttle body, fuel pump and assembly, TPS/APS sensors, and wiring. I should actually probably swap ECU's and the key FOB security devices and see if that helps. I'm going to do the coil pack wires as far back first and if that doesn't work try the ECU. Wish me luck

Aeok18109

whatever happened with this

str8savvag

TensorWorl

I'm working a ton of overtime right now. I will update y'all when I get time to run the new wiring

TW99GS300

If it starts and shuts down there will be a CEL stored. Very likely to be P0300 multiple misfires.
Cut the loom open from behind the cam gear to each coil pack, inspect for cracks on the shielding.
Replace the connectors since they were brittle.

The wiring are polarity specific.
Each connector has a common B+, this wire should be near the clip on the connector.
The other wire on each connector is the ground trigger.

Try that next and report back

Aeok18109

that's exactly how bad my wiring was. absolutely TRASHED from connector all the way back to near the vvt-i solenoid. I ran new 16g wiring from there to each new connector. made sure I had a good solid connection to coilpack before I put it back on the plug. it's hard to tell if it's fully engaged when in the valley.

TensorWorl

So I've run all new wire and connectors. I put everything back together but the battery was dead so I will try tomorrow afternoon. The wires were terrible so I ran all the way back to the VVTi solenoid. The weird thing is there is no CEL. I've tried several scanners including my friends scanner that does everything and I get nothing which is the weirdest part. If this doesn't fix it what do I try next? Swap ECU and key fobs?

TensorWorl

Bad news guys. Went to start it this afternoon and same exact problem. Still starts and dies 3 seconds later. Still no CEL. I give up. I seriously just want to part out the car. Ugh. Anyone want to buy a GS300 that runs kind of? lol

Aeok18109

when I did my timing belt job the first time I had swapped out my crank timing gear for one of the Driftmotion tig welded ones. come to find out it hada different tooth count sonit won't work with stock ecu. after I swapped it back to stock gear, I had re do the timing. verify timing vía crank and cam marks and TDC via extension in cylinder 1 spark plug hole.

verify clean solid connections on coilpack. listen for distinctive click. I had to go back through with a pick and made sure the little rubber seals were not bunched up nor any debris was blocking it from full lock. make sure the polarity of all your connectors/wires is correct. your ignitor on the right side of engine bay. make sure it's fully connected and working. verify your crank sensor is connected (it's wedged in by the timing belt tensioner and alternator).

The ecu is cutting fuel because it senses some issue with your firing order. whether it be any of the things I just mentioned OR be it the ones you have paired with each other. from front of engine straight back it's 1 2 3 4 5 6

​​​​​​make sure coilpack is on even cylinders. the straight plug wire goes from
1 to 6*
2 to 5
3 to 4

the car DOES run but it's shutting off fuel since it senses an issue. make sure since you redid the wiring that you didn't mix them up.*

I derped it up by having the coil pack. connector from 4 go to 6

sounded like a donkey was trying to kick its way out the block. I was scared af hahaha.*

Crewmaxter

I had the same problem before and this is what I found to be the fix. Did you take apart the tps? If so, how did you put it back? Reason being is that you have to put the tps back in a counter clockwise manner. Seen that fix somewhere on this forum and that fixed the issue of car shutting off after a few seconds.

TensorWorl

This sounds very much like what might be going on. I replaced the entire throttle body with TPS and APS. Let me look for what I can find on the forum