Please tell me you at least replaced the fuel filter that is the large plastic piece next to the fuel pump!

 

I was told by a few people that it has a "life time" fuel filter regardless I replaced it, but neither seemed dirty in the slightest. I've managed to get my status knight 5s mounted. I had one rim that had a slight bend in the lip, two local shops told me that it was a total loss and to buy another. I figured they were both full of ****, athe guy from tire express tried to sell me 20s w/ tires for $1.3k because he knew I couldn't find a matching rim with my offset... what a joke... Tried firestone and the technician gave me all these reasons as to why it was ruined. Meanwhile his own receptionist argued with him that it could be repaired. After searching I found a great family owned shop in Ohio about 35 mins away from me called 5 Starr Tire. They didn't have the low pro 235/30 22 I needed but got it there in less then 2 hours! They also do rim repair, the tech took one look at my rim and said he could fix it. Twenty mins later he comes out with the rim, tire on, holding air with no visible damage. Moral of the story DONT TRUST ANYONE keep doing research until you're satisfied. Don't take a half assed excuse. I'll post pictures below, don't mind the body as there's plenty of work to do. I plan on getting a body kit mounted then prep for paint. I have slight rub in the fronts when attempting a U turn the front plastic fender well simply needs cut back. No rub in the rears but am afraid once back seat is loaded it's possible over a bump.
Rear
Front

 

LOL. Amazing what people think.

 

The manual, and a certified Lexus retailer told me that it was lifetime.. oh well to eaches own

 

Well...don't believe them when they say the ATF fluid is lifetime either. LOL

 

haha now that seems unrealistic.. I'm going to try and tackle this speedometer issue today hopefully will be resolved soon.

 

Well I found the problem with the speed sensors the rear right is shredded and the rear left is covered in metal strands. What do you guys think caused this? Rear wheel bearing?

 

So currently I'm at a stand still replacing my rear wheel bearings. As said above I found one abs sensor completely destroyed from shavings and the other side covered in strains of metal. I've searched and have only found a few things relatable on the rears also the videos methods or pics seem different. I've gotten my break calipers, axle nut off, etc then removed the front of the hub with a slide hammer. Below is a pic where I'm at. I'm basically ready to remove the whole knuckle so I can take it to a shop and get the bearing pressed into it. #1. I had major issues with this piece, is this m rear toe barr? The nut was about to unscrew off the last couple threads then started to turn the whole bolt. I've tried gripping the bolt with locking players while turning the nut off to no avail. I've also tried to reset the bolt into the knuckle and ratchet off also failed.#2 Is this my traction rod? I removed the nut on the bolt then tried to pound out the bolt with a piece of wood over it, it wouldn't budge. I then tried to ratchet the bolt and the whole bushing is turning with it. #3 is ready to come out is this my lower Camber? , #4 started to spin but the pliers method worked this time. How do I go about removing #1 and #2 to free my knuckle? I'm assuming I'll need bushings upon removal.

 

So let me first start off by saying I haven't changed this stuff yet, but will be later this summer. I can answer some of your questions. #1 is your toe arm and try a Pittman arm puller to get it off. #2 is your traction arm and the bolt might be fused to the bushing, maybe try heat.#3 is your spindle bushing, might need torch or press to remove bushing. Camber adjustment is at the other end of your lower control arm, towards the middle of the car. Hopefully someone else with more knowledge can chime in. Good luck � correction:#3 axle carrier bushing and you might be able to use Pittman arm puller for #2 as well. You can buy a puller for $20 or rent one from auto zone or one of those places.

 

Thanks for the reply and clarification! It's not a tough job really, if it wasn't for these stubborn bolts I'd be done. You definitely will need a slide hammer to remove the front of the hub and free the axle. It was $189 to rent at my local advanced auto but you get all of your money back upon return and it works wonders. I seen someone on YouTube basically bend a crow bar in between the toe arm and knuckle this froze the stud and he was able to use an impact wrench to get it tight. I'm going to try the same method tomorrow but to loosen so will see how it goes. You're definitely right about the traction arm, the bushing is fused with the bolt I gave it a little heat earlier but no luck maybe I didn't leave the torch on long enough I'll give it another go. If heat won't do it I see how that Pittman puller could work if it has a smaller diameter then the arms hole. I'm anxious to get these bearings finished up, I have good speed sensors from the junkyard gs400 waiting to go in! Pretty sure this will solve my MPH issue. Fingers crossed.

 

Thanks spectra that tool worked perfectly on #1! I bought a similar one at my local harbor freight called a ball joint separator also picked up a cordless impact (probably going to return it when I'm done and buy an air/wrench setup its kind of junky) All I did was jack up my lower control arm then hit the ball joint back into the knuckle, installed the tool tightened as much as I could then used the impact and the bolt came right off! I'm in the process of cutting the traction arm bolt out now.... this stuck bushing will not budge I've tried heat, pb blaster, turning the bolt while hitting etc guess this is the last resort. Hopefully will have both right and left knuckles out today! Edit: left side knuckle is removed!

 

So I'm debating to purchase a set of coil overs I figured getting the rears in would be a breeze with the rear knuckles out of the way. If anyone is selling a pair or could recommend something. My budget isn't the greatest but I don't want to end up with a trash product. Currently my car is nose diving on hard breaks and is getting blown around by wind on the highway at 170k I'm sure the suspension is long over due.

 

Hey everyone I'm still trying to pick out a coilover suspension. I have a couple questions, I have 22in rims and wanted to use the coilovers to adjust my rude height when my back seat is full to avoid rubbing over bumps. Is this the right idea or would I just I just get stiffer springs? Also are there any coilovers that do + height most I've seen only do - or they don't say.

 

Hey guys quick update. I ended up going with J2 engineering coilovers off eBay. I got them for $600.00 delivered, not to bad! What attracted me to it was the ability to adjust through the whole shock body not the spring. Also has 32 levels of adjustability height and compression should be here soon then I'll post pics of install.