I'm shopping for a higher output alternator for out 2J's. I ran across this: http://www.mechman.com/alternators/l...ut-alternator/

Does anyone have this installed in theirs or know anything about them? Any input is great!

 

Never dealt with that company.

I had my OEM alternator rebuilt locally 3 years ago - close to 300Amp. I had a few minor issues which I took it back and had the problem rectified on the spot. When it comes to alternator if you have a good shop around your area I would personally recommend you go that route. The hassle of shipping those things and waiting

 

What was the name of the company you used?

 

I second that, I am in need of a new alternator so I would like to know where you went since im in NYC also, I was originally going to get a new one from the dealer with the shop discounted price of $283

 

If you can find a shop that rebuilds them, they can increase the output considerably. Most stereo shops, or even CB radio shops have a rebuilder that they deal with that could provide a HO alternator. I had 2 alternators on my old chevy dually. One for the truck, and one for 4ea 8V batteries wired in series-parallel. Charged them 18v normally and when shooting skip would crank the alternator up to 20v with a dash mounted **** to increase linear wattage. Without the extra alt and batteries, just a dead key would lock up the alternator and the belt would smoke till it snapped!

 

I am in New York City.

Select Auto Electric
140-11 Rockaway Boulevard, Jamaica, NY 11436
(718) 659-1248

Can't go wrong with a good re-built OEM alternator.

This is what my trunk looks like running on a solid re-built OEM alternator - minus what is on the inside.

 

what minor issues are you having? mine wont charge at idle and now im searching around for a used alternator..

OP I would go with neither and just stick with your stock oem alternator. maybe do the "big 3" I see nothing but issues when it comes to upgrading, people get the battery light at high rpm's.. im having problems charging at idle and getting the battery light... not a fun experience for me. I was reading and unless they throw in a denso voltage regulator your basically screwed. do some searching and see what route you want to go. I decided, to go the rebuild shop route like Lowkut and we had different experiences.

 

I have a mechman alternator on my GS400, i know another member on here that has it as it on his GS300 as well. The problem we both have is that once the RPM goes above 5k the battery light will come on... It doesn't affect anything (as far as i can tell.

Also for me when i crank up the subs too loud the alternator would pull my tensioner so hard to point where the tensioner would move with the belt causing every light in my car to dim with the tensioner movement. This would stop when i turned the car off and back on.

 

Check out Singer alternators. They are a great option for quality high output alternators. They have a lifetime warranty, but they are a bit more expensive.

 

Mean Green
MechMan
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I had a similar issue - not charging at idle nor driving. Took it back and was fixed in a few hours.

 

Thanks yea I'm definitely gonna go with OEM I have no reason to upgrade Im all stock basically except for a usa spec ipod afalter

 

After reading, I may have my factory alternator rebuilt to have more output. Ours put out 100a so I'm thinking another 100a making it a 200a alternator will be sufficient for maintaining the battery and my accessories.

 

Sorry to bring this back to life but I called Select and they told me they only rebuild up to 140 for my car.. 2000 GS300... That doesn't make any sense to me as the stock alt is only 100.. my system in my car is killing my alternator slowly.. any other rebuild locations ?

 

Thats the highest they can do with the factory alternator, they do it by swapping the stator from another alternator. Other than that, you have to get a custom built one, theres not enough room in the factory alternator housing to wind a bigger alternator.

Adding a second battery and an isolator/solenoid can help and is the cheaper alternative. Doesnt solve the problem, only helps prolong. I've been running 2500 real watts (not that cheap crap) and 2 60a air compressors with 3 batteries and stock alternator for a very long time, only replaced my alt once and that was due to an oil leak directly over the alternator creating sludge inside.