is the person clearing them with an abs scanner?
if so ask them what the code reads.

 

Yea he has one of the huge red Snap On ones. He asked me if i wanted the codes cleared i said yes. But they never went off i have a pic of the codes. I appreciate the help everyone.

 

Do you know if he is using OEM sensors? Sometimes the resistance in the aftermarket sensors are not the same and even after replacement you'll still have the same issue.

 

Yes there OEM!

 

Did it ever get resolved? I am having the same issues. I also inspected the sensor and i found there are some grease on the sensor itself. Also never found a 98 GS300 thred to reset the code. I tried through online and different methods using OBDll and didnt get any luck.

 

You guys gotta be kidding me! What the hell could be the reason why it's not clearing that's odd....

 

Mine would come on intermittently. . Then more and more often.. alternator was going bad, replaced and lights have stayed off...

 

I know, probably sounds weird just as I thought. .. but lights have not came back at all.... not sure if this would be your remedy but just sharing

 

It's the alternator. Definitely. It's throwing the wrong voltage. Changed mine after weeks of troubleshooting. Alternator finally crapped out. Lights gone

 

When my ABS, VSC, VSC OFF light came on it was my alternator as well. It was right after i got my subwoofers and amp installed. I could literally hear the alternator whine as my RPMs climbed.

 

check codes and if nothing is stored you may need to do a zero point calibration. If jumping the pins in the DLC trick doesn't work you may need to have a dealership do the calibration with a techstream unless you know someone that has one. I don't know if your buddies snap on scanner can do it, some aftermarket scanners can and some can't. When i lowered my car from stock my vsc and abs lights all came on as well, after doing the zero point calibration on a techstream all was good. I had to use a techstream because on my 03 gs300 the DLC is pinned differently than ones that use the "jump the pins" method. hope this helps some people out.

 

It could also be the scanner that is the issue... I bought a cheap $30 scanner to check a CEL light that I had, and right after unplugging it and driving for about 5 min all three of those lights came on; no power loss or anything. If your dealership isn't charging too much (and the jump-pin method isn't working), I'd have them reset it with the Techstream before purchasing an alternator.

 

The issue you had was for sure a "zero point calibration" . I've seen so many people perform a repair that causes the zero point cal to be lost, and what you described is exactly what happens. They'll clear the abs codes and go drive it not more than 10 feet sometimes before all the lights are on again. Most any type of abs repair, steering repair, ride height change will need a Zero point done (not every time, just most the time). I've even done alignments and had to do a zero point after because the changes were so far from what "zero" was. Good luck guys on getting this issue resolved, those lights on all the time would bug the crap outta me haha.

 

Going to meet a Toyota Master technician and see what he suggest. Will keep you guys posted.

 

Dam I don't know why I didn't think about that, the first time my VSC lights came on was all because of my alternator as we'll TOTOALLY forgot, but what's the zero point calibration all about if you don't mind me asking? I have techstream, have hooked up one of the cars to it and it was just to much I didn't want to mess with anything, I did some test that made the car bog out on me and I swear it drove like s*** for a good bit after that, don't know what the heck it was but must have reset some memory for sure.