Mods to increase reliability for a GS430?
12-27-13, 07:07 AM
#1
Mods to increase reliability for a GS430?
I'm on the hunt for a black on black or silver on black GS430 (GS400 is an option too, but gs430 preferred).
I'm coming from a 2002 BMW M5, which is the best car I've ever driven, but a maintenance nightmare. As a result, I want to do everything possible to make our GS as trouble free as possible.
What tweaks, modifications, and preventative maintenance can we do to maximize the reliability of an already solid GS?
Cheers!
I'm coming from a 2002 BMW M5, which is the best car I've ever driven, but a maintenance nightmare. As a result, I want to do everything possible to make our GS as trouble free as possible.
What tweaks, modifications, and preventative maintenance can we do to maximize the reliability of an already solid GS?
Cheers!
12-27-13, 09:59 AM
#2
Oil. And get the maint up-to-date.
You'll be pleasantly surprised. My '02 2Gs430 has been tremendously reliable (knock on wood). I got it when it was 3.5 years old and 45k mi. With 112k mi now, you'll be blown away at how little it has required beyond oil and regular maint (90k mi belt service, brakes and a battery) - just one seized front brake caliper and new shocks all around under warranty a half dozen years ago.
A car doesn't have to be an expensive nightmare ... get a reliable one that doesn't cost a mint to keep running and always starts. You're going to like your GS (but miss that sportiness of the M5!).
You'll be pleasantly surprised. My '02 2Gs430 has been tremendously reliable (knock on wood). I got it when it was 3.5 years old and 45k mi. With 112k mi now, you'll be blown away at how little it has required beyond oil and regular maint (90k mi belt service, brakes and a battery) - just one seized front brake caliper and new shocks all around under warranty a half dozen years ago.
A car doesn't have to be an expensive nightmare ... get a reliable one that doesn't cost a mint to keep running and always starts. You're going to like your GS (but miss that sportiness of the M5!).
12-27-13, 10:02 AM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Hello. Great question. IMO, if you keeping it stock and prefer to use it as a daily driver, there's ,any things you can do. I got a silver on silver 01' GS430. Bought it with 76.5K miles on it. Has almost 100k now and its going on to 2 years I've had it. I'd recommend changing oils every 3k miles. Keep the engine in tip top shape. OEM or K&N oil and air filters are a good investment. New spark plugs. I used NGK for mine. Lower ball joints and outer tie rods are also a good tune up suspension wise. I used Moog for mine. Made in Japan; stamped 555. Also, if your cats are in good condition, I'd really order all gaskets and 02 sensors and get those put in asap. To avoid that CEL everybody gets from sensor failure. Currently dealing with that. You can get GREAT discounts on www.sewellparts.com if you register your account with your CL account. Aside from those little things, these cars are SOLID. I'd say twice as solid as any BMW or Mercedes Benz. You won't be disappointed!! Good luck on your search bro!
12-27-13, 10:04 AM
#5
Many will say font suspension lower / upper ball joints, tie rods, etc need to be replaced to avoid catastrophic failure ... but, I'm not convinced the +'01's suffer the same failure rates as the '98-'00.
12-27-13, 04:21 PM
#6
not sure what the op is talking about in terms of a "mod"; you're just talking about maintenance, and on an old car at that.
What you need to either find a good mechanic who can look things over for you well and perform services correctly; or if you have the time, tools/space, and interest, learn to do this yourself.
The Lexus is basically a toyota, so in picking a mechanic, find one thatspecializes in at least japanese cars (if it's toyota specific, great!) and performs good work at a fair price. This does not mean a wizened old guy. It can be young guys who know how to use computers and follow online service manuals and latest technical diagnostics.
The only other piece of advice is to switch your perspective of maintenance from a "fix a part when it's used up" to a more holistic view.
I don't mean this just as changing parts early or proactively; but rather think about your usage of a car as a whole and as a commodity.
Say you are at 100k miles and its been 10years, and you see yourself driving to 200k miles. And a timing belt is due at 120k.
Old way of thinking is drive to 120k then change. New way is instead of waiting until that is all used up, just change it now at the half-way point to get some use on the new parts and you are good for at least another 10years.
Same with things like tires/brakes/suspension parts. You don't need to wear your old tires down to the bars, if you know you're going to get new tires. What are you saving those new tires or shocks left on the bench for?
Think of it like a auto race, you split the race in halves or thirds and pit your car strategically, you don't drive 90% of the race then change tires for the last 10%, just because the tires could last that long.
But you can also take this advice on the flip side, if you plan on getting a new car in 2years, then you can say forget it, just let the parts run, if they fail then buy your new car early.
What you need to either find a good mechanic who can look things over for you well and perform services correctly; or if you have the time, tools/space, and interest, learn to do this yourself.
The Lexus is basically a toyota, so in picking a mechanic, find one thatspecializes in at least japanese cars (if it's toyota specific, great!) and performs good work at a fair price. This does not mean a wizened old guy. It can be young guys who know how to use computers and follow online service manuals and latest technical diagnostics.
The only other piece of advice is to switch your perspective of maintenance from a "fix a part when it's used up" to a more holistic view.
I don't mean this just as changing parts early or proactively; but rather think about your usage of a car as a whole and as a commodity.
Say you are at 100k miles and its been 10years, and you see yourself driving to 200k miles. And a timing belt is due at 120k.
Old way of thinking is drive to 120k then change. New way is instead of waiting until that is all used up, just change it now at the half-way point to get some use on the new parts and you are good for at least another 10years.
Same with things like tires/brakes/suspension parts. You don't need to wear your old tires down to the bars, if you know you're going to get new tires. What are you saving those new tires or shocks left on the bench for?
Think of it like a auto race, you split the race in halves or thirds and pit your car strategically, you don't drive 90% of the race then change tires for the last 10%, just because the tires could last that long.
But you can also take this advice on the flip side, if you plan on getting a new car in 2years, then you can say forget it, just let the parts run, if they fail then buy your new car early.
Last edited by raytseng; 12-27-13 at 04:28 PM.
12-27-13, 04:29 PM
#7
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Yeah, I'm not sure what you mean by "mods to increase reliability". A stock Lexus is going to be as reliable as any car on the road. I will just echo what other posters have said. Timing belt, suspension, brakes, regular oil changes, ect. Do that and you should have no problem getting to 200k without any major issues.
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12-27-13, 05:53 PM
#9
@****-adkt, I'm not sure why there's a need for the condescending comment. I didn't ask about slamming the car or anything like that. I'm no stranger to wasting money on modifications that make a car worse, unfortunately. My question doesn't have anything to do with that, thus your comment is irrelevant to this thread.
To the several of you who offered legitimate insights, I appreciate it! What I'm gathering is this:
The timing belt is a big and expensive maintenance item that should happen at least every 90k. Regular oil changes (3k or so) are added insurance to keep an already reliable car in the best shape possible. Keep the intake filter fresh.
Known failure points are lower ball joints and outer tie rods. Are there opportunities to upgrade these to keep the steering as tight and responsive as possible without significant ride quality sacrifice?
As for the gaskets related to the Cats & O2 sensors, any major concern with waiting on those until there's an issue? On the chance that there isn't an issue during my ownership, I'd hate the sink the money in unnecessarily if it's not a safety or catastrophic concern.
Other types of 'reliability modifications' in the BMW world are things like shock mounts, chassis reinforcements, control arm bushings, strut braces or 'x brace' that aid in chassis rigidity which helps a little bit with handling, ride quality, and general wear and tear. Also, software that programs for premium fuel which increases power as well as fuel economy. Less of a reliability thing as it is a no-downside enhancement.
Thanks again, all.
12-27-13, 06:00 PM
#10
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Well, using the phrase "mods" to identify parts that needing replacing is a bit confusing.
Anyways, If you are looking for reliability just focus on the staying up to date on regular maintenance and a Lexus will run a long time. I don't think there is a huge difference between OEM parts and aftermarket replacement parts, but others may be able to chime in on that who have more knowledge than me.
Anyways, If you are looking for reliability just focus on the staying up to date on regular maintenance and a Lexus will run a long time. I don't think there is a huge difference between OEM parts and aftermarket replacement parts, but others may be able to chime in on that who have more knowledge than me.
12-27-13, 06:02 PM
#11
It's not that complex guys, if there is some particular part that is prone to failure, thus decreasing the reliability of the car, and there is a non-stock replacement for that part that decreases it's likelihood of failure, you've just modified the car and increased reliability in doing so.
@****-adkt, I'm not sure why there's a need for the condescending comment. I didn't ask about slamming the car or anything like that. I'm no stranger to wasting money on modifications that make a car worse, unfortunately. My question doesn't have anything to do with that, thus your comment is irrelevant to this thread.
To the several of you who offered legitimate insights, I appreciate it! What I'm gathering is this:
The timing belt is a big and expensive maintenance item that should happen at least every 90k. Regular oil changes (3k or so) are added insurance to keep an already reliable car in the best shape possible. Keep the intake filter fresh.
Known failure points are lower ball joints and outer tie rods. Are there opportunities to upgrade these to keep the steering as tight and responsive as possible without significant ride quality sacrifice?
As for the gaskets related to the Cats & O2 sensors, any major concern with waiting on those until there's an issue? On the chance that there isn't an issue during my ownership, I'd hate the sink the money in unnecessarily if it's not a safety or catastrophic concern.
Other types of 'reliability modifications' in the BMW world are things like shock mounts, chassis reinforcements, control arm bushings, strut braces or 'x brace' that aid in chassis rigidity which helps a little bit with handling, ride quality, and general wear and tear. Also, software that programs for premium fuel which increases power as well as fuel economy. Less of a reliability thing as it is a no-downside enhancement.
Thanks again, all.
@****-adkt, I'm not sure why there's a need for the condescending comment. I didn't ask about slamming the car or anything like that. I'm no stranger to wasting money on modifications that make a car worse, unfortunately. My question doesn't have anything to do with that, thus your comment is irrelevant to this thread.
To the several of you who offered legitimate insights, I appreciate it! What I'm gathering is this:
The timing belt is a big and expensive maintenance item that should happen at least every 90k. Regular oil changes (3k or so) are added insurance to keep an already reliable car in the best shape possible. Keep the intake filter fresh.
Known failure points are lower ball joints and outer tie rods. Are there opportunities to upgrade these to keep the steering as tight and responsive as possible without significant ride quality sacrifice?
As for the gaskets related to the Cats & O2 sensors, any major concern with waiting on those until there's an issue? On the chance that there isn't an issue during my ownership, I'd hate the sink the money in unnecessarily if it's not a safety or catastrophic concern.
Other types of 'reliability modifications' in the BMW world are things like shock mounts, chassis reinforcements, control arm bushings, strut braces or 'x brace' that aid in chassis rigidity which helps a little bit with handling, ride quality, and general wear and tear. Also, software that programs for premium fuel which increases power as well as fuel economy. Less of a reliability thing as it is a no-downside enhancement.
Thanks again, all.
12-27-13, 06:25 PM
#13
you don't need to change your oil every 3k miles. Anyone who's telling you that doesn't know what they are talking about, same with someone saying change the air filter to increase MPG.
especially if that's the advice you are getting from your mechanic, I'd just walk away and find a new mechanic.
You are right to weigh the costs, and for small incremental increases or smart shopping you can get better items for nearly the same price. This is usually just choices in your maintenance, such as buying synthetic oil when on sale at the parts store, and it costing the same to do a synthetic oil change, versus walking up and paying an extra $50 for synthetic oil. But this is just common sense for any car maintenance, and not specific to this car
especially if that's the advice you are getting from your mechanic, I'd just walk away and find a new mechanic.
You are right to weigh the costs, and for small incremental increases or smart shopping you can get better items for nearly the same price. This is usually just choices in your maintenance, such as buying synthetic oil when on sale at the parts store, and it costing the same to do a synthetic oil change, versus walking up and paying an extra $50 for synthetic oil. But this is just common sense for any car maintenance, and not specific to this car
Last edited by raytseng; 12-27-13 at 06:32 PM.
12-27-13, 06:32 PM
#14
you don't need to change your oil every 3k miles. Anyone who's telling you that doesn't know what they are talking about, same with someone saying change the air filter to increase MPG.
especially if that's the advice you are getting from your mechanic, I'd just walk away and find a new mechanic.
especially if that's the advice you are getting from your mechanic, I'd just walk away and find a new mechanic.
12-27-13, 06:35 PM
#15
i thnk the problem is you're dealing with hypotheticals.
Go buy your car, then drive it for a bit, then come back and ask about what you like/don't like and what you want to improve.
There's little point discussing maintenance or mods when you don't have the car yet to maintain or modify.
Go buy your car, then drive it for a bit, then come back and ask about what you like/don't like and what you want to improve.
There's little point discussing maintenance or mods when you don't have the car yet to maintain or modify.