Hey when your done with your crystal ball can I have the lotto # for tomorrow.?...that way we can still say u did something useful on this thread.

btw...
Everyone knows that chevys are better kido,
thats why there are sooo many of them on the road...come on mang....duhhh. Sin Cerebro
2 Million Mexicans in my city alone CANT BE WRONG.

 

Wish you were right ,

I had the car for 4 years ,all maintenance done by Lexus, guess the car couldn't handle -15 in chi town, Lexus just told me its the ecu....so no need for the throttle body

ohh and I got the car form a girl down the street
scared to drive on the highway, daddy changes her oil type of situation.

Thanks for your time, appreciate the effort.

 

Sounds like you weren't meant to have a Lexus man. My car handles -15° no problem. There has to be something on your car your not mentioning. Something messed up. Anyhow, I hope it gets fixed. Btw, Chevy is TRASH! Hahaha, the ppl who do have it is only because they're cheap as hell year round. I can find you a 2006 for $2500 hahaha.

 

It's never worth it to throw parts at the car to make it work.

 

I have the same problem
Did the OP get the answer to his problem?

 

I have exactly the same issue can some one shine some light on this?
btw same as op I also had to crank for 5-10 secs for the car to start and when the car's hot it 'll fire up the first time but still run rough for about 10 secs, and if you press down the acc pedal the idle will drop, but according to op this is might not be fuel related?

 

I think your problem is at the pressure regulator .it has a special washer to go on one side. If the washer is not in the right position you will have fuel starvation/. The washer has wavy like groove.

 

thanks for the reply will look into that, And i just did the trouble shooting according to this: www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/
my Throttle control motor reads 5.2ohm on room temp but 5.4ohm when bit hotter and all other 2 sensors are still within range, btw I also have low idle issues it's about 550-600rpm so I might change that as well

 

How do you check if the ecu is bad? I still have the prob after replace the throttle body, don't want to waste money on parts that won't make any difference, btw the car has only 145xxx kms.

 

A few weeks ago, my car was doing the low idle thing after it would sit for a few days and I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator letting the pressure bleed down or something. I had already changed the TPS and throttle motor a few years ago so I knew they shouldn't have been the culprit. Right after the problem got really bad, the check engine light came on for the coolant temp sensor in the head. I swapped a new sensor in and the low idle problem went away. If it has never been changed that may be something to consider.

 

I had my mechanic scan the car last night and was told there's no code but the temp reading is bit higher than the actual feeling on the hose, so I'll probably order a new temp sensor, I'm in the middle of changing the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs and 2 of them have soaked tips so fingers crossed that's the prob, btw is the temp sensor on the bottom of the radiator?

 

Is the one in red circle the correct one to replace? I checked the car can't see any temp sensor on the cylinder head next to the dipstick handle

 

Don't change that one. There are 2 temp sensors. Toyota calls both of them ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor but Autozone, Oreilly's, etc.... normally call the one in the radiator a fan switch.
- The one in the radiator just tells the electric fans to turn on once the coolant has reached a certain temperature.
- The other one mounted in the head feeds the temp gauge in the cluster and the ECU. That's the one that can affect stuff because if it is reading the temp wrong, it could lead the ECU to make the wrong calls on timing and fuel trim.

Oreilly's sells one for like $18. Since the sensor can affect your fuel mileage, I just went with the OEM sensor 89422-30030. Please note that there is a non-re-usable copper crush washer that goes between the sensor and head. The Oreilly one comes with the washer, but Toyota sells it separate from the sensor (90430-12005). I used a 19mm socket to get it off. You can't see it. It's under the intake near the front of the head right behind the water outlet. You have to feel for it.

The images below say gasket. ** It's a copper crush washer, don't know why they call it a "gasket"** I thought it came with the sensor. I spent $5 buying that stupid washer on ebay from a dealer because I couldn't find the dimensions for it online and the old one fell off and was lost when I removed the sensor. The dimensions for it is 16 mm OD, 12.2 mm ID, and 1mm thick if you try to source it somewhere other than the dealer.

 

 

So I just put a full tank petrol in for the first time I own the car, and surprisingly it starts without much effect the first time in the day and idles at 1100-1200rpm and consistently to be good, comparing to just before I filled it up it'd take 4-5 secs to crank and will only idle at about 800rpm causing engine to shake left and right in the engine bay, so it's definitely fuel related, so I just ordered the filter and sock, and waiting for my temp sensor to come, after that if symptoms persists I'll take it back to my mechanic to check the fuel pressure readings, see if I need to do fuel pump or pressure sensor or clean the injectors jeez just want a reliable daily so much effect and then there's this nitrogen canister I need to take off and find a place to re-charge lol

btw I've always kept the key in till the steering wheel in position and my stereo comes on and then crank and sometimes even for good 30sec before I start cranking and it has made no difference.