lol $3500 and you complain that it needs maintenance? Here in canada i could list my 96 civic with 300,000 km's for $3500 and it would probably sell the same day. get the issues sorted and enjoy the car, you won't be disappointed in the 2gs.

and learn to use the search function on this site, it is a lot more helpful than any thread you could ever create. these cars have been around for over 10 years and every issue has already been experienced and probably documented on this forum.

lol, no complaints here. I know i am going to put some money into this. My frustration is i can't pinpoint this lol. And also when i made this thread it was right after i put the $256 pedal position sensor on and it took away the code put still ran the same. So maybe a lil overboard on the title, sorry. But I wanted you all to actually look at it and give some advice. I plan on being around here for a while and active on these boards. Thanks for helping guys

Thanks Ava92, I've actually already learned quite a bit from here and plan to learn more. I'll keep searching lol

Don't forget after replacing a part as Pedal sensor to reset your ECU by disconnecting you negative on the battery for 10 mins and then re-hook to let the ECU re-learn whats been added new to the car..

Ok so I disconnected the positive during the whole installation so at least 20-25 mins. Does that reset? Or does it have to be the negative? Im gonna go do it again just in case.

It would help if you could post a vid and what car is it year and model like 98 gs400 or gs300

It's a 2000 GS300... I'll see if I can get a vid up.. I have an update, decided to pull the negative off for 10 minutes and when put back on and started the car it idled super low and if I touched the gas it would die... Now code 1126 popped up magnetic clutch malfunction.. with the key in the on position and car off I heard a whining sound coming from the throttle body, unplugged the connector to the throttle motor and it stopped, plugged back in and started up and it was fine again and no code... Reset ecu again and now it won't do it again but still runs the same with no power. I am wondering if I have some kind of throttle problem and converter problem.. even though no more code it still has the whine everytime I put the key in the on position....

Where in Texas are you at bro?

It sounds like you bought a beater. How is that Lexus' fault?? There are always going to be some issues with a used car but when you go that cheap on a higher end car like a GS then be prepared to drop some money. I would reasonable say what ever discount you got on the car relative to a more normal market price you will need to drop it into the car to get her running again.

" when it seems too go to be true..........................IT IS"

I had the same problem when I had my honda. The symptoms sound exactly the same. It was the VTEC Solenoid that went bad. It was a $60 part and when replaced and everything worked fine

Reason why im saying this is because almost every engine has one, they just call it different things. Honda is vtec, toyota is VVTi, Beemers have MPower or what ever the hell its called, Ford has VCT and so on

Basically when your car hits a certain RPM (usually 3-3500 rpms) It opens up a passage way for your oil to flow and push a plunger in your head assembly. Once the plunger is pushed down, oil pressure can "flow" into the rocker arm bars. The bars have holes that align with oil passages on the rocker arms. Within the rocker arms are dowels. As oil pressure flows in the rocker arm bars, into the rocker arms and then to the dowels, the rocker arms are "locked" together and thus you are on the high cam. When that sensor is bad, the ECM wont let the engine rev past XXXX RPMS because it detects an error. Just a saftey mechanism so you dont blow the motor

you need to find that sensor/solenoid and clean it or replace it. It is usually in back of the motor or exhaust cam side of the motor depending on what engine you have. Once you replace it you would be able to rev past that and drive normally again

I heard a whining sound coming from the throttle body,

I have had that too.. when plugging in a battery but no problems I think thats ok...
so no other codes are coming up now? even when you rev to 3500... I think you should try to drive it around just a little and get it to pop a code because it should get a code.

I'm in clear lake, that's just south of Houston like 15 minutes... Not sure why a few people think I'm blaming Lexus lol which I clarified already... Anyways, thanks for the info NYknick, I will definitely check into that... Anyone else heard of that with the vvti?

^^^^ Small world, i use to live in clear lake. I'm up around the Galleria area now.

Ok, that would make sense if the whine is normal.. No code anymore but I only drove it not even a quarter mile so I will drive it some more to see if a code pops up

Oh nice 1qwkgs4 lol, I actually thought about moving out that way myself.. I'm always working around that area