Go with what the dealer uses, castrol 5w30 conventional oil, the white bottles. change it every 3000 miles that way if anything pops up under the car it will be noticed rather then 10k for synthetic.

 

Changing oil at 3k is a total waste. If you are going to run dino oil, please at least push it to 5k. I run dino and I just started pushing it to 6k. If I run syn, I will push it to 8k at least. I've noticed that my car burns oil, so I have to add close to 1qt in that time frame. I don't have any leaks so I guess the I6 is a oil burner.

 

Sounds like what I do. I run synthetic (mainly for the stronger film strength that has a better ring seal) and look to be buying oil after 6k, and somehwere between 7-8k I change it.

 

Anyone using Eneos oil or know if its any good?

 

Is that the oil from used oil that is being marketed?

Anything in those "green" packages/bottles is an instant turn off to me, I rarely touch that stuff. I just keep to what I know. Mobil 1, Amsoil, Rotella T. Probably all essentially the same, but I just like to keep the variables down.

 

So you have to add oil in your I-6 also? Ok, I thought that it was just me. IDK, it doesn't have any oil on the ground, VC gaskets are not leaking, I don't smell oil thru the AC vents or when I park the car, nor is my TB cover covered in oil by the seals leaking. The only answer that I can come up with is that the I6 burns oil.

 

I have a 98 GS4, and it doesn't seem to leak or burn a drop.

My 99 Suburban with a Big Block 454 burns oil, and every 454 I have ever seen does some. Mine has 195k miles and was over heated once (lower hose blew off in -20F weather and it still is fine. Oil burning went up slightly. Roughly a quart every 3000 miles. GM feels that is acceptable in the BBC.

Synthetic can help keep oil control at bay. Also, cheaper oils have a higher Noack oil loss. It is attempted to be quantified under Noack Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (ASTM D-5800). Some oils lose a fair %, some don't. The better the oil the less % loss of oil.

What oil do you run? Low tension rings promote oil loss (blowby) as do worn rings. Hotter oil temps promote a greater % oil loss.

Engines that don't get driven much also see a higher % oil loss, as the % of oil is replaced by moisture and the oil level appears to be ok, then you run it and get it hot enough, the moisture burns off and voila, low oil level.

 

Any dini oil will burn oil pass the piston rings. Even some full synthetic oil such as mobil 1 full syn burns oil. I switched to castrol edge full syn and i notice little to none oil consumption. This is from my experience.

 

I haven't used Edge, is that the green stuff everyone raves about from Germany?

 

Its in a golden bottle.

 

I got the impression the color of the oil was green, did they mean the bottle was green? if so, I sure missed that one!

 

Welcome to the club
i bought mine with 114000 miles and switched for synthetic (castrol)
6000 miles later no problem at all and i will be changing oil in about next thousand miles because there is no sense to change full synthetic oil at 3k or even 5k just use good oil filter (i used napa gold filter made by wix because new toyota filters are cheap paper)

 

go on their website. i think you are confused.

 

You shouldn't make a blanket statement on all oils based on 1 or 2 experiences with specific items.

I've corrected your quote (or fill in the oil that you are using)

 

it's good, but imported I believe so carries a premium. You shouldn't pay extra for it over other equally performing brands you can get domestically for less.