LexXxtacy

I saw something while searching earlier about ac self dianstic, i cant find the sticky. but i press n hold recirculate and auto i think it was and it kept going through 1-9 on the display and did it for about 8-9 times so i stopped it.

i did notice with it off and key out it read 11 volts about at the blower plug then i turn car to on and goes down to 4 volts. and i turn key to off and it spins the blower really quick like a split second. would there be another fuse that would control that, i checked them alla nd heater fuse few times but just to verify would there be anothjer one?

i might have to try that climate control out, ill double check everything, all my wires tomorow. do you know which body control module is for that blower or blower control? Thanks sam.

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

So when you ran the diagnostics the blower worked correctly? Not sure what the body control actually controls? In that manual I posted the link it has a troubleshooting chart but it is difficult to tell exactly because everything is interrelated. I would assume the side that has the fuses for the heater and blower ( which would be the passenger side) would be the body control module that controls the blower. When you take apart the fuse box clean all the connectors and check for any sort of water damage. I can send you the passenger side body module and the climate control if you wish. If it's the control module I will sell it to you for 140.00 and you pay the shipping. (basically what I paid for it when I was diagnosing my car). Clean all the connectors that connect to the passenger side fuse box first (except the one that connects behind the fuse box because it is very difficult to unplug) also next to the fuse box (between fuse box and door) there are 3 plugs under the carpet. Clean them also. Maybe there is someone locally that has a climate control and module so you can swap it and see if it's that. Not sure if a salvage yard would let you do that. Just out of curiosity unplug your efi fuse (car won't start but you can test blower with ignition on) and see if it starts working ( that's what mine did if it does than most likely the ECM) did you disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECM and see if that worked?

LexXxtacy

yes i ran the diagnostics but no the blower didnt work it just kept repating the phases 0-9. Ill do what you said about cleaning all contacts and such. Im thinking it has to be something little since there is voltage at the plug. Im going to the junk yard today to hopefully get the climate control and the control module of it still has it. I will try the EFI fuse.

Out of curiosity, when you replaced your ECM im assuming that wasnt plug and play and a dealer had to program it? How much does that run

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

I got it for 280 with a paired key in the club Lexus classifieds you can get them for 200 dollars at car-parts.com but I am not sure if they will have the paired master key. Look in the classifieds on club Lexus maybe someone has one with a paired key. If not you need to find a locksmith to reflash the ECM so it accepts your key. If you get it with a paired key you take out the fob and put it in your key and the car will start. There are also companies on the Internet that will reflash the ecu and make keys for it ( you send the ECM in to them) but they charge around 300.00 for it. Not sure what the dealer charges to reflash and from what I read some dealers want you to buy the ECM from them some will reflash. If you get one with a paired key it is plug and play. I still doubt it is your ECM since you only have one problem. Read my post on electrical problems. I had nearly every interior electrical thing not working. By the way, you can also send your ECM to be rebuilt with lifetime warranty just google it. That will run you 400 to 500 dollars. If you can temporarily get a hold of an ECM (even if it is not paired since you can still turn on the ignition it just won't start) you can swap it and see if the blower works before you waste too much money. If not I would go to someone with a scanner to trouble shoot. Did you do a search on blower motor in this forum? Are you sure your battery is good? Did you try resetting by disconnecting your battery? By the way before you clean your connectors disconnect the battery

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

By the way, I doubt there are any junkyards open on Sunday. Maybe there is a local club Lexus member that will let you swap parts temperarily. Changing the ECM is a 5 minute job. You can also clean the connectors that go to the ECM ( it's under the hood in a box with a cover behind drivers side headlight) 3 10 mm screws. If you have another car swap out the batteries just to eliminate that possibility. I have read some screwy happenings due to battery internal shorts. Do a search and you will see what I mean.

LexXxtacy

I got the new blower control and switched it and didnt work. Its really too cold out there to do anything more today but I was thinking about what you said about a weak battery. When I bought the car I was told something was draining the battery overnight so he just unplugs the neg terminal on battery overnight. I was doing alot of searching on here and what do you think about the alternator being the culprit? i read something about how the alternator can actually drain a battery while the car is off and a weak one can limit certain components from running. i put a stock radio in and noticed the green buttons light up but not the face that shows cd selections and such, also i belive only "auto" lights up on my climate control. It still however starts and runs fine. I bought the car in Nj and drove it over 3 hours non stop home. once its running its fine, never had a battery light illuminate on dash. Im not sure if it is the alternator but im going to test annd see how many volts the battery is at while running. i think thats how u do a alt test. (im more body work minded then electrical and mechanical lol) , also not sure if its relevant but the door shime is intermintant with doors closed and comes and goes....

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

Put a known good battery first. A lot easier then go to your local car parts store to do an alternator test. As soon as you replace the battery if it is bad everything should work if not then get the alternator tested. Just get a battery from one of your other cars. Sometimes a cell in the battery shorts out and the battery still works but it can cause problems. All this should cost you nothing but time. Search the chime thing I think their is a diagnostics for that. Can't remember if it was on this forum or in the manual I posted the link for. Do a search

LexXxtacy

alright thanks bro! ima check see if the battery in my tib or subaru or mustang will work, i know sometimes the postives and neg are on different sides. I have a good feeling it may be the alternator. I do hear a slight "whine" when i first start the car.

LexXxtacy

Update, Just checked the alternator and it seems to be fine, its at 14.25 volts and i turned the headlights on and few other things and it remained steady, battery went to 12.42 but as soon as i turn the car off it drops so something is draining it, im gunna switch out batteries soon here and just see what happens there. but seems like alternator is good. ill let u know what happens after i switch the batteries.

LexXxtacy

just got done switching the batteries and still no difference so i can rule the alternator and battery out now. im so confused on what it could be,

before the blower motor there a power wire that comes in, its blue and the other one is white that suppl;ys power to the blower control then power wire from that to the blower motor, which one is the positve wire the blue or white, i can take apic if ud like i cant find it in the service manual or ewd

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

Did you ever pull out efi fuse and see if blower works with ignition on? (car won't start) the fuse is in the box in front of the battery under the hood

LexXxtacy

yeah i did i pulled both efi fuse and relay, the only difference was the outside temp didnt show but that didnt fix the blower or anything. i went back and checked every fuse there ok and made sure they were the correct amperage too, this is really stumping me lol

LexXxtacy

i also switched out the passenger side control module(behind the fuse box) with a good one and that didnt work....

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

I think it is time to find someone with a scanner. You can go to the Lexus dealer or start calling around because I believe snapon sells a scanner and some of the local shops have that scanner. Maybe you should post a thread asking if someone knows a place near you there is also a local forum if you look in the forum list not sure if one is in your area. Also many of the big cities have shops that specialize in Toyota and Lexus (many are ex Lexus or toyota mechanics) they usually charge more than the average mechanic but a lot less than the dealer. Good Luck.

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

Here is an example of the codes a scanner will pull
http://alflash.com.ua/OBDII/DTCe1.pdf

Some background on multiplexing

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/elec16.pdf

Info on snapon tool

http://www1.snapon.com/display/DocMg...px?fileid=4652