High Mileage Club
#78
#81
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: md
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189,700k And forced to put on more being I work further now, I want to conserve though anyway its still strong, I love the car. A Co worker rode in it the other day going to lunch and said this car rides good, what did you do to it? My only reply was a starter last summer.
#82
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: CA
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Laundry List at 189,000 Miles
About to hit 189K miles. Bought back in Jan '11 with 98K miles.
Besides regular oil changes (Mobil1 10W30 because it's consistently 100+ F from April to October where I live, Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and SeaFoam every other change to keep things clean), tire rotation/balance/alignment, brakes (OEM rotors are getting a little thin since they've been resurfaced twice), tranny filter and flush (twice), and a K&N Air Filter, I have done the following:
Gas cap
Spark Plugs and Heater Coil/Packs (All 6)
Ball Joints
ABS Speed Sensors (broke during ball joint DIY, those wires are brittle and expensive AF [$180 each] so be careful)
Radiator (too much corrosion broke the plastic parts, needed brand new everything, parts and labor at Big O $650)
Starter (165K)
Alternator (150K)
Wheels (OEM started to crack, 4 new XRS from Discount $380, reduced price because I bought 4 brand new Michelin Defenders [$400] from them at the same time)
Upcoming Projects (insight appreciated):
Mystery Oil Leak - Most likely cam shaft, crankshaft, vvti cam gasket/seal. Had to add 3 quarts just to register on the dipstick last night when the Dash Oil Warning Light came on.
(1x) vvti cam part # - 13050-46010
(1x) crankshaft seal part # - 90311-46001
(2x) camshaft seal part # - 90311-40020
CEL P0446 - Needs a new charcoal cannister.
ABS Master Cylinder Unit - High Pitched Dolphin Squeal during cold temps, otherwise brakes work fine.
Tie-Rods - Low priority but I know they're about due.
Hood Latch Release Cable - Sometimes takes me 20 - 30 tries to shut it all the way, mechanic buddies say the cable itself is hyper extended and doesn't have enough tension to reset everytime.
Trunk Release - Driver's trunk switch next to gas cap cover switch no longer works. Totally clueless on what to fix or where to begin.
Splash Guards and Wheel Well Covers, maybe front bumper - Lots of AZ summers/sandstorms/potholes and long road trips haven't been kind to them. May or may not have bumped one too many large orange construction pylons and blown out truck tire debris on the I-405 @ 90mph (whoops)
Fog Lights - (see above)
Besides regular oil changes (Mobil1 10W30 because it's consistently 100+ F from April to October where I live, Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and SeaFoam every other change to keep things clean), tire rotation/balance/alignment, brakes (OEM rotors are getting a little thin since they've been resurfaced twice), tranny filter and flush (twice), and a K&N Air Filter, I have done the following:
Gas cap
Spark Plugs and Heater Coil/Packs (All 6)
Ball Joints
ABS Speed Sensors (broke during ball joint DIY, those wires are brittle and expensive AF [$180 each] so be careful)
Radiator (too much corrosion broke the plastic parts, needed brand new everything, parts and labor at Big O $650)
Starter (165K)
Alternator (150K)
Wheels (OEM started to crack, 4 new XRS from Discount $380, reduced price because I bought 4 brand new Michelin Defenders [$400] from them at the same time)
Upcoming Projects (insight appreciated):
Mystery Oil Leak - Most likely cam shaft, crankshaft, vvti cam gasket/seal. Had to add 3 quarts just to register on the dipstick last night when the Dash Oil Warning Light came on.
(1x) vvti cam part # - 13050-46010
(1x) crankshaft seal part # - 90311-46001
(2x) camshaft seal part # - 90311-40020
CEL P0446 - Needs a new charcoal cannister.
ABS Master Cylinder Unit - High Pitched Dolphin Squeal during cold temps, otherwise brakes work fine.
Tie-Rods - Low priority but I know they're about due.
Hood Latch Release Cable - Sometimes takes me 20 - 30 tries to shut it all the way, mechanic buddies say the cable itself is hyper extended and doesn't have enough tension to reset everytime.
Trunk Release - Driver's trunk switch next to gas cap cover switch no longer works. Totally clueless on what to fix or where to begin.
Splash Guards and Wheel Well Covers, maybe front bumper - Lots of AZ summers/sandstorms/potholes and long road trips haven't been kind to them. May or may not have bumped one too many large orange construction pylons and blown out truck tire debris on the I-405 @ 90mph (whoops)
Fog Lights - (see above)
#83
Intermediate
230,000KM, bought with 127,000KM. Arguably, I've spent way too much on this car - 2-starters, 2 sets - balljoints, upper/lower/caster arms, stabilizer links, steering rack bushings, TREs. But, the car still drives exactly as it did 100,000KM ago. There's nothing else out there that does that.
#89
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: CA
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One last thing that I recently just went through, and have seen other people go through who have similar odometer readings, Check Engine Light with a code of P0446, that doesn't go away after getting a new gas cap, is going to be the Charcoal Canister 9/10 times, and that's not cheap, nor is it an easy DIY job. Cost me $850 just to have a new one installed, so be weary if that code ever comes up on a scan.
#90
High Mileage Forum Members: Who Has Highest Mileage 98-05 GS300/400/430 on the forum?
Hi guys,
I've often heard that the 98-05 GS is one of the most reliable cars ever built. I'm wondering how many miles you have on yours and who has the highest mileage on this forum. I'll go first (nowhere near the highest but hoping to take mine to 300,000!):
Year/Model:
Mileage:
How long have you owned it:
Major Service:
I'll go first:
Year/Model: 2001 GS430
Mileage: 118,000
How long have you owned it: 4yrs (put 30K miles on it during that time)
Major service needed/done: I replaced most of the suspension as preventative maintenance but what the car "needed" is shown below:
1.) Ball-joints
2.) Outer tie rods
3.) Rack bushings
4.) Serpentine belt tensioner and idler pulley.
5.) Couple of door lock actuators went out
6.) Mark Levinson amplifier
7.) Serpentine belt (what car doesn't after 100K+)
8.) Caster arm bushings (debatable whether it was needed, but I had some steering wheel shimmy and the bushings were showing some surface cracking).
I'm still on the original timing belt and water pump which will need to be changed at some point. I've owned a lot of cars over the last 18yrs and this Lexus is by far the best all around/most reliable.
Lets hear yours!
I've often heard that the 98-05 GS is one of the most reliable cars ever built. I'm wondering how many miles you have on yours and who has the highest mileage on this forum. I'll go first (nowhere near the highest but hoping to take mine to 300,000!):
Year/Model:
Mileage:
How long have you owned it:
Major Service:
I'll go first:
Year/Model: 2001 GS430
Mileage: 118,000
How long have you owned it: 4yrs (put 30K miles on it during that time)
Major service needed/done: I replaced most of the suspension as preventative maintenance but what the car "needed" is shown below:
1.) Ball-joints
2.) Outer tie rods
3.) Rack bushings
4.) Serpentine belt tensioner and idler pulley.
5.) Couple of door lock actuators went out
6.) Mark Levinson amplifier
7.) Serpentine belt (what car doesn't after 100K+)
8.) Caster arm bushings (debatable whether it was needed, but I had some steering wheel shimmy and the bushings were showing some surface cracking).
I'm still on the original timing belt and water pump which will need to be changed at some point. I've owned a lot of cars over the last 18yrs and this Lexus is by far the best all around/most reliable.
Lets hear yours!
Last edited by BayAreaLex; 10-07-15 at 10:50 AM.