will definitely post pics tomorrow of my finished big 3. all wires have been ran and connected with new battery clamps, gauge reducers and kinetick side posts. the clamps were too big to fit on the top so i had to buy the side post adapters and clamp/wire everything on the side. fit well and looks good.

except the big three did very little. =(
voltage still drops down to 11.xx with bass loud, lights dim equally bad as before big 3. any ideas or help?

 

as promised. here are the last pictures. big three completed. new side post adapters. new battery terminals. used gauge reducers for a little cleaner look and this makes for super easy removal of the wire if needed and i can easily stick it back in. no struggling with the coper strands not being able to fit in perfectly. =D

BEFORE:


After

 

becuase no one seems to be reading that thread anymore lol

 

wait. can i just add a ground to that bolt that i mentioned? can i just bolt on a 0 gauge and ground it? idk if grounds work like that, never heard of just grounding an electronic just to any metal on it.

looks like im buying a new alt anyways, but would be nice to know

 

Yes, you can use the mounting bolt since that is how the alternator is grounded. That's what I always do on alts - slip a ring connector in between the housing and the head of the mounting bolt. Doesn't affect the mounting, just ensures a solid ground. Since this goes through to the engine, too, it does help ground the engine block. I ran tests before on the voltage on the block with and without an upgrade to the stock grounding point, and the difference was nill. Zero. Zip. At that point, I stopped really doing the separate engine ground unless it was clearly visible and easy.

You did a good job on the wiring to the battery, but I would recommend something to cover that bolt on top (on the RH side) since it's a positive connection. Competition organizations always require them to be covered for safety, and for good reason. Just a thought.

What reducers are you using?

Big Mack

 

so adding a ground to the alt is pointless then?

i guess il just wait til i buy a new ho alt. should be this week. i really need this voltage problem fixed. dont wana screw up anything in my car due to low voltage drops.

i used these gauge reducers:



http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...T821-Gold.html

they are stingers, found the crome ones on ebay for like 9 bucks. they work pretty good and i love them cus now i dont have to worry about not being able to put my 0 gauge back in the terminals. i used to absolutely ****ing hate that, its always a hassle and such a *****! i used them on my mono amp too. wish they were designed a little bit better though. once you get them screwed in tight, they are pretty secure, but the connecting end could be designed better to fit and stay inside the terminals better.

thanks mac, il try and find a clean way of covering the + terminal on the battery. definitely good idea and better to be safe than not.

do YOU by any chance have a ho alt?

 

i like those side mount terminals. seem to DEF be easier to use than the uses i have

 

thanks man. im pretty happy with it. only thing is that im thinking about upgrading to an hc2000 and idk if everything would still fit smoothly.
=(

and my big three ended up costing me quite a bit and still didnt work.

in the process of ordering an alt. still trying to get a hold of dc, but got damn they seriously suck at customer service.

 

what size battery did u put in there? yeah dc sucks....part of the reason i didnt go with them

 

yeah i got the 1800 we were talking about in your thread a little while ago.

i want at least the hc2000 in there, but now on the car audio forums members have been telling me to go with deka or xs batteries. so idk. kinetick is the most expensive too. i like kinetick though.

you have iraggi alternator right? how is that alt working for you?

 

Dont know who you've talked to, but I get perfect service with DC Power Alts. My friend even got his 260a shipped in 3 weeks.

as for the Big Three not working... Well, you may not notice a difference, but its doing its job. Because you're gonna upgrade the alternator, you're gonna need it anyways. Think of it as a supporting mod done first.

 

Speak to Stan, I ordered from Dcpower inc. XP series.

Date of purchase was Feb. 23, and date of arrival to shipped address was March 8th
... 2 weeks delivered for a HO alternator.

Iraagi, is also good. Brian is putting down some massive power, and has Iraagi 320 amp.
So they are reliable. But the price we pay is not cheap. These alts. cost some serious $$$.

And nice pics of the battery and terminals...

 

my preferance is dc. they seem to have good alts, im just disliking their customer service. i've been emailing with them and they lack responses for an average of at least a week each, some times i got no response.

how much did you ay for the xp NVTHSLEX? this is the one i wanted to get but i might have to get the 180 amp HP model, cus of my budget. let me know how much you got yours for. and also, im glad to hear it only took about 2 weeks. ive heard too many horror stories on here about it taking months and months.

 

When are you emailing Rob? Try emailing during business hours. I had this same problem with UAS and found that when I emailed during business hours, I'd get immediate response, I believe that was the same deal when I dealt with Stan.

 

i take the "it isnt working back". just as you said jokster, i knew it had to be working since obviously the power had to be flowing smoother to the battery, but yeah its only when i crank it TOO loud that it drops down to 11.xx. but if i play it moderately high i still stay up in the 13's and high 12 volts. so its definitely doing SOMETHING.

and yeah since im getting that alt, at least i got it done and will be ready for the alternator.