TomLee

iTrader: (3)

Can the stock rear suspension's camber be adjusted, or do I need to pick up a cmaber kit? I want to run on -2 camber to get flush, but im not sure how the camber on the GS works. I've searched and from what i came up with is that you do need to get an aftermarket camber kit, but I coudln't find any specific brands.

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

yes, there is adjustment (do I know where? no - sorry), the problem is that when you are dropped low, maxing out the positive adjustment still yields a bunch of negative camber. At my ride hieght, max positive camber was set and it was still -2.6 degrees.

TomLee

iTrader: (3)

Interesting. Well im dumped on my super streets right now. So i guess im looking for maybe more then -2 camber.

5t341th

iTrader: (16)

yea there is camber adjustment. it is an eccentric lobe so adjustment is minimal +/- 2 degrees i bet.
didnt u go to justtires to do ur alignment yet?

TomLee

iTrader: (3)

Nope, was it you I pm'ed a while back? i called tehm and they said their alighment rack aws down. i never got a call back haha. I found a palce down here though, getting it done wednesday.

Alexus_300

iTrader: (4)

Running -2 degree camber on a lowered car is not a problem. If you're anything below 2 finger gaps, you're already at -1.3 to -1.5 degree camber already. It's not hard to negative camber, but gaining positive camber is hard to come by unless you get the RCA's. Also, unless you like to run low and slow, I don't recomend running that much negative camber in the near. -1.3 should be perfect for handling. Also, when you get a alignment, select a place that has the new hunter machine that uses laser beam sensors. They are more accurate then the old bubble leveler. Hope this helps.

Jedidiah

iTrader: (1)

I was able to yield between -3.2 and -3.5 maxxed out on factory arms. I do have a very good alignment guy who knows what he's doing. I'm on 20's as well, and you can see my ride height in my sig. It can be down.. unfortunately I can't tell you how, other then you driving to Dallas to schedule an appt. with my mad scientist.

VipDout

iTrader: (4)

thats about right with Jedidiah , I had alot of camber and the stock camber bolt gave enough to finish the alignment

TomLee

iTrader: (3)

Perfect. Ill try to have my guys max me out then! Thanks everyone!

DumpedGS

iTrader: (1)

i am all the way down on my Tein SS's...when i went in for my last alignment, i was at -3.6 in the rear and my alignment guy maxed out the camber bolt and got me to -2.8 still way to much negative camber for me, so now im looking hard at making my own set of RCA's.

TomLee

iTrader: (3)

what was your tire life like?

GS300ToM

iTrader: (32)

if u get one done then holla at me dumpedGS haha i want one too

Jedidiah

iTrader: (1)

Tire life is based soley on the "look" in which you are trying to achieve. You can cut your fenders and get your wheels flush with the fender line, but without the negative camber of the wheels "coming back in" and lining with the fenders, you are not going to have the aggressive look you are hoping for.

RMM's car fitment looks aggressive, but he is also running a fat tire setup, and his car isn't "slammed."

Based on my observations, there are two approaches to an aggressive wheel setup:

1) You run a fat-tire setup with an aggressive wheel and it will be "poking" out slightly and look more like a lowered muscle car. RMM's car is a perfect example and it looks great. He will also point out that his car is setup with 0 degrees of negative camber to increase the longevity of his tires. (I would too if I had a supercharger )

2) The 2nd way is to run an aggressive wheel setup, but with a stretched tire and camber in so that the top of the lip lines with the fender, while the bottom is cambered out, thus giving the aggressive appearance. This look is only achieved if you car is "slammed" vs. "lowered."

Its all preference in my eyes and while I chose the 2nd look for my car, I appreciate both approaches when done correctly. With that said, there isn't a middle ground between the two. Its one of the other, and not because of opinion, but simple physics and geometry.

Your tires will certainly wear out quicker on the 2nd approach.. but you at least get the option to flip them


Disclaimer: I'm sure there are points of contention to my views, which people are free to express. These are simply from my observations.

GS300ToM

iTrader: (32)

im lowering my car, is there any way of having camber at zero without RCA or close to specs?? im tryna have my car flushed with stretched tires..

DumpedGS

iTrader: (1)

to be honest i havent had the tires on the car long enough to gauge the wear on them. but in my past experiences, -2.5 degrees of camber is going to wear moderatly fast.

i am not a fan of really low offsets and stretched tires. IMO that look is for show cars and trailer queens. (read: not functional) my car gets driven everyday and i also autox and drag race it. but i also like the ultra-slammed look. im trying to get my camber to around -1 to -1.5 i think rca's will put me right there with the stock camber bolts.

i run a 20x10 with a 285/30/20 i am doing what i can to get near my target camber, and run wide wheels, with wide tires...and keep them INSIDE the fenders. the rear fender lips are cut, and if i stand the tire up another degree or more, they will be flush to the inside of the fender just how i want it.