Chumacher

Does anyone know how to change the serpentine belt? I need to change mine and I thought this would be helpful for other members as well.

DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

The diagram below applies if you have a GS400/430. Very easy to do 2 minutes tops job..The pulley below is spring loaded and will shift as you turn the bolt allowing easy removal of the belt. No removal of the pulley required.. To route back the belt, just follow the belt routing diagram/label affixed to the underside of the hood.

Tank

iTrader: (19)

Be mindful though, the diagram above is not entirely accurate, the no#2 idler pulley is not shown, but it's just like he said there's a diagram either under the hood on top of the wheel well next to the intake.

Tank

iTrader: (19)

or*...lol still half asleep..

DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

My bad.. The diagram above applies to the GS300.. So GS300 guys that is your diagram to study

GS400/430 guys your diagram is below.. You will need a 14mm socket to complete this 2 minute job. The tensioner pulley is spring loaded once again to allow easy removal of the belt. Be sure to turn the belt tensioner pulley counter-clockwise with one hand and slip the drive belt off with the other. No muscle needed to do this job.

Tank

iTrader: (19)

Wow, now that I look at it, not much has changed from earlier 1UZFE engines to current ones...

Och

iTrader: (3)

LOL the picture is of a 1UZ engine. The 3UZ doesn't have distributors or fan, and it has the throttle body more or less where that ignition coil used to be.

Chumacher

Thanks everyone. Now my engine doesn't sound like a tweety bird.

young's 96

anyone have the one for us gs400 or 430 owners?

DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

This is a diagram of a UZ series motor.
The same applies for the GS400/430. I've done this belt change on my GS400 before.. I would think you can trust a guy who has been on the forum as long as me

NoCallerID

i need some help with this '2 minute job' *99 gs400*

i googled this fix recently and read here and somewhere else also that it was a simple job and that once its done and you start the car it auto adjusts itself. but now i am wondering if this last step is what i giving me a problem. i say this because the belt snapped while driving, teenage son was driver and he pulled over right away and parked it. i had it towed and started it to drive it onto the flat bed, and again drove it a few feet to park it in my lot to work on.

so fast forward to the problem....no matter which pulley or even the tension pulley i leave for last i can not get enough slack to make it fit. could it have 'auto adjusted' while the car was running and no belt on, causing the pulleys to be too far way now? any ideas on what i can do?

i am using a cheater bar to get full torque and the tension pulley moves a good amount so i dont think that is the issue. i double checked the part, it is the right one and even the same size as broken one. i tried starting on each side...im running out of ideas, thanks in advance

lexo98

iTrader: (2)

SameOlG

iTrader: (1)

Make sure all of the pulleys spin freely, and double check your routing.

NoCallerID

**edit
i noticed the one that does not spin had a marker line on it and there is a gauge above it number 0 and 10, the pully was way past those numbers, i would say closer to 20 if it were numbered that high. i put a wrench on it and turn it back towards 0 but not all the way. before i do that, is doing this going to cause any other issues or could this have been the problem?

thanks for that suggestion.....the large pulley in middle at bottom does not spin at all, any ideas what could cause that and if it is something easily fixed? i literally only need this car to run for about 1 more week till he goes back to school.

and i have triple checked belt number and size, the routing pattern 100x, had 2 other people try 1 a back yard mechanic and a retired machine operator and none of us can get it. its pretty close but not enough to try any tricks

Letsride

Take a pic of the pulleys and post it up here....