GS300 90k and THEN SOME.
Who would have one?
10-29-07, 10:36 AM
#21
Are you fixing stuff thats not broken?!
Most of that stuff may go 200k-300k just fine. For example, a mechanic can tell you if your ball joints have play, just by putting it up on a lift. Tie rods and such ... ditto. Some of those seals can be checked.
My point is, you may be wasting money, and just working on a car can cause problems too ... but its up to you. I guess if you have the money, it probably wont hurt.
Most of that stuff may go 200k-300k just fine. For example, a mechanic can tell you if your ball joints have play, just by putting it up on a lift. Tie rods and such ... ditto. Some of those seals can be checked.
My point is, you may be wasting money, and just working on a car can cause problems too ... but its up to you. I guess if you have the money, it probably wont hurt.
10-29-07, 11:13 AM
#22
[QUOTE=bigmemory;3018719]Are you fixing stuff thats not broken?!
Most of that stuff may go 200k-300k just fine. For example, a mechanic can tell you if your ball joints have play, just by putting it up on a lift. Tie rods and such ... dittoQUOTE]
no way man i recommend anyone that reaches 90k to just replace balljoints and tierods cause that **** breaks randomly
Most of that stuff may go 200k-300k just fine. For example, a mechanic can tell you if your ball joints have play, just by putting it up on a lift. Tie rods and such ... dittoQUOTE]
no way man i recommend anyone that reaches 90k to just replace balljoints and tierods cause that **** breaks randomly
10-29-07, 11:56 AM
#24
There can only be One
Thread Starter
I also already have the Goodyear Gatorback Serpentine Belt sitting in my Garage awaiting install. (Autozone - $40)
10-29-07, 11:58 AM
#25
There can only be One
Thread Starter
Are you fixing stuff thats not broken?!
Most of that stuff may go 200k-300k just fine. For example, a mechanic can tell you if your ball joints have play, just by putting it up on a lift. Tie rods and such ... ditto. Some of those seals can be checked.
My point is, you may be wasting money, and just working on a car can cause problems too ... but its up to you. I guess if you have the money, it probably wont hurt.
Most of that stuff may go 200k-300k just fine. For example, a mechanic can tell you if your ball joints have play, just by putting it up on a lift. Tie rods and such ... ditto. Some of those seals can be checked.
My point is, you may be wasting money, and just working on a car can cause problems too ... but its up to you. I guess if you have the money, it probably wont hurt.
What can possibly last to 200K on this list?
Ohh and most of this stuff is getting DIY'd!
So DIY's on everything will be available as well.
11-21-07, 10:20 AM
#26
There can only be One
Thread Starter
Update: 11/21/07
So this last weekend I did my Motor Mounts. Well just 1 side. We ran out of daylight. It was simple enough. You basically raise the car on one side put a Jack under the engine and start lowering the car SLOWLY till the motor mount slides off.
Of course you have to loosen the nuts for the motor mounts on the bottom and the top. There are two nuts on the bottom and 1 on the top. You then remove the upper plate because you won't be able to remove it completely without taking it off and you are GOLDEN.
I did my Headers (FREAKING SWEET! Thanks JPI!).
Again its simple. Follow Lexbox's instructions and you are golden. Its a little hard to get in there on the stock Y pipe but it fits. Then take it over to the Muffler Shop to install the Y pipe! They should charge you like 50 bucks to extend it and install it.
Installed my Injen Intake. Simple swap and go.
Pop off the Stock Intake, pop on the New one.
Did my Power Steering Flush. Really Easy I used this:
Found it in Wal-Mart for 3.50.
Put some Amsoil ATF Fluid in there.
I went ahead and changed my oil as well.
Went with Amsoil 0W30.
I also did my tie rods and ball joints.
I will tell you now. BUY THIS before trying:
Its like 15 bucks at Autozone. You'll thank me.
Follow these instructions and you are Golden. It took me like 15 minutes to remove both sides and reinstall.
Removing Rotors is easy. Just pot off the wheels. Take off the Calipers (now would be a good time to paint them if you want to do that). Remove the Caliper Holder I think its called. And just bang out the Rotors from the back. Should pop right off.
I learned also how to bleed the brakes last weekend with my buddy that has been helping me do all this. Or rather I have been helping him. He is a Toyota Mechanic here in Orlando. If you need any stuff done he is your guy. Just let me know and I can set it up.
I did my Front Strut Bar. Easy. Just pop off the nuts holding your suspension in and pop on the Strut Bar.
Next weekend Dec 6th its Timing Belt and Water Pump time.
Hopefully I will remember to bring the Camera this time and be able to post picture of how it all comes off and goes on.
We tried to do it this last weekend but it was NOT moving. That bolt is on there REALLY GOOD.
Waiting on Jeff to rent me that special tool.
And probably doing the Daizen Bushings as soon as they come in.
So this last weekend I did my Motor Mounts. Well just 1 side. We ran out of daylight. It was simple enough. You basically raise the car on one side put a Jack under the engine and start lowering the car SLOWLY till the motor mount slides off.
Of course you have to loosen the nuts for the motor mounts on the bottom and the top. There are two nuts on the bottom and 1 on the top. You then remove the upper plate because you won't be able to remove it completely without taking it off and you are GOLDEN.
I did my Headers (FREAKING SWEET! Thanks JPI!).
Again its simple. Follow Lexbox's instructions and you are golden. Its a little hard to get in there on the stock Y pipe but it fits. Then take it over to the Muffler Shop to install the Y pipe! They should charge you like 50 bucks to extend it and install it.
Installed my Injen Intake. Simple swap and go.
Pop off the Stock Intake, pop on the New one.
Did my Power Steering Flush. Really Easy I used this:
Found it in Wal-Mart for 3.50.
Put some Amsoil ATF Fluid in there.
I went ahead and changed my oil as well.
Went with Amsoil 0W30.
I also did my tie rods and ball joints.
I will tell you now. BUY THIS before trying:
Its like 15 bucks at Autozone. You'll thank me.
Follow these instructions and you are Golden. It took me like 15 minutes to remove both sides and reinstall.
Removing Rotors is easy. Just pot off the wheels. Take off the Calipers (now would be a good time to paint them if you want to do that). Remove the Caliper Holder
I think its called. And just bang out the Rotors from the back. Should pop right off. I learned also how to bleed the brakes last weekend with my buddy that has been helping me do all this. Or rather I have been helping him. He is a Toyota Mechanic here in Orlando. If you need any stuff done he is your guy. Just let me know and I can set it up.
I did my Front Strut Bar. Easy. Just pop off the nuts holding your suspension in and pop on the Strut Bar.
Next weekend Dec 6th its Timing Belt and Water Pump time.
Hopefully I will remember to bring the Camera this time and be able to post picture of how it all comes off and goes on.
We tried to do it this last weekend but it was NOT moving. That bolt is on there REALLY GOOD.
Waiting on Jeff to rent me that special tool.
And probably doing the Daizen Bushings as soon as they come in.
Last edited by cpone; 11-21-07 at 10:23 AM.
