GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

How To - Change The Tension On The Trunk Lid - One BIG Pic

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Old 03-17-11, 11:01 AM
  #31  
raytseng
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Originally Posted by sakataj
^^^ really busy today and not much time for CL today....would love a link if you got a min
http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...layCatalogid=0

The diagrams are only on the "w/o spoiler" category, but buy the "w/spoiler bars" if appropriate. You're going to need both left and right.

No tools are necessary if you've already gotten to see the holes, it's obvious how to replace them if you just look at your existing bars.
Just note that you'll have to use some muscle to load the torsion onto the bars to install, they don't just slip in.
Well maybe they slip in if you fork over money for some completely unneeded custom SST overdesigned for this job.
Old 03-17-11, 11:22 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by raytseng
http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...layCatalogid=0

The diagrams are only on the "w/o spoiler" category, but buy the "w/spoiler bars" if appropriate. You're going to need both left and right.

No tools are necessary if you've already gotten to see the holes, it's obvious how to replace them if you just look at your existing bars.
Just note that you'll have to use some muscle to load the torsion onto the bars to install, they don't just slip in.
Well maybe they slip in if you fork over money for some completely unneeded custom SST overdesigned for this job.
ty, i have no spoiler BUT wouldnt the ones with the spoiler provide a little more "oomph"
Old 03-17-11, 11:24 AM
  #33  
raytseng
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Originally Posted by sakataj
ty, i have no spoiler BUT wouldnt the ones with the spoiler provide a little more "oomph"
I'd say that makes logical sense. It's not a different dimension, just a different spring rate.

Even if they're too springy initially, they'll die down after a little while, or you can swap in one of your existing bars if it's really too strong out of the box.
Old 03-17-11, 01:54 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by raytseng
I'd say that makes logical sense. It's not a different dimension, just a different spring rate.

Even if they're too springy initially, they'll die down after a little while, or you can swap in one of your existing bars if it's really too strong out of the box.
ty for the link im gonna order them soon
Old 03-18-11, 06:32 PM
  #35  
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Did mine. A noticeable difference. 10 minutes max.

Much appreciated.
Old 03-30-11, 11:35 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by raytseng
http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...layCatalogid=0

The diagrams are only on the "w/o spoiler" category, but buy the "w/spoiler bars" if appropriate.
well ordered these on the 18th from parts.com....got a message 3 days later saying they wouldnt ship them to a different address since its not my billing address. WTH why give me the option then?

anyways the new ones should be here this week and i will give it a try. i ordered the ones for the spoiler model to try and give it some extra OOMPPHHH...
Old 03-30-11, 02:20 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by sakataj
well ordered these on the 18th from parts.com....got a message 3 days later saying they wouldnt ship them to a different address since its not my billing address. WTH why give me the option then?

anyways the new ones should be here this week and i will give it a try. i ordered the ones for the spoiler model to try and give it some extra OOMPPHHH...
Yea, parts.com is just the front end for dealers that use their trademotion software.
The order just goes to the dealer has the lowest price, but then the parts dept. for that dealer fulfills the order based on their own policies.

I've had a recent order where if I were to buy honda and toyota ATF together, the honda parts would get cancelled with a "we don't ship fluid" whereas the toyota dealer shipped ATF fine. Meanwhile, I pay the full shipping/handling fee even though it's only a partially completed order.

But once you know the lowest price dealers, you can just order from them directly.
For Lexus, last few times, it's been Pembroke Pines Lexus out of Florida:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214082
for example.
Old 03-31-11, 01:21 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by raytseng
If this doesn't work, you may need new torsion bars. Just like gas struts, the torsion in these bars start to fade after years.

Especially if you had non-spoiler bars, and you added a spoiler added afterwards. You can find the OEM parts for sale in the parts diagrams.
you know i was very skeptical about these actually working but i was also curious so i bought a set and tried them. well thanks ray the new ones DEF work and for $55.73 SHIPPED i am happy with it. the ONLY problem i have now is the custom holes i drilled awhile ago give it to much tension EVEN with all my dynamat they slam up to the max,bounces back and then slams forward some till it settles back fully open so now it has to much force the 3rd OEM hole with my dynamat opens about 1/2-3/4 of the way open so im gonna end up drilling a hole in between my OEM 3rd hole and my custom one and it should work out fine.

thanks for the heads up ray this def is true
Old 03-31-11, 02:08 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by sakataj
you know i was very skeptical about these actually working but i was also curious so i bought a set and tried them. well thanks ray the new ones DEF work and for $55.73 SHIPPED i am happy with it. the ONLY problem i have now is the custom holes i drilled awhile ago give it to much tension EVEN with all my dynamat they slam up to the max,bounces back and then slams forward some till it settles back fully open so now it has to much force the 3rd OEM hole with my dynamat opens about 1/2-3/4 of the way open so im gonna end up drilling a hole in between my OEM 3rd hole and my custom one and it should work out fine.

thanks for the heads up ray this def is true
Before you start drilling too many holes, they will settle a bit initially as it gets used to being under tension; as well as over time; so give it a few days first then see if you still need to make modifications or if your existing holes will work.
Old 03-31-11, 02:23 PM
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nice DIY :-)
Old 03-31-11, 04:17 PM
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This D.I.Y. is awesome. Thanks so much for it!!
Old 04-01-11, 08:31 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by raytseng
Before you start drilling too many holes, they will settle a bit initially as it gets used to being under tension; as well as over time; so give it a few days first then see if you still need to make modifications or if your existing holes will work.
to late....i had already left for the day befoe you wrote this. oh well i have 5 holes now (including the OEM 3) and if they settle and its not enough i will just move them forward one more set
Old 10-30-11, 07:10 PM
  #43  
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My 1980 Turbo Trans AM still has factory bars and with the factory rear spoiler, it still pops up when you turn the key. Lexus just used excessively weak bars, thats all.

Originally Posted by raytseng
If this doesn't work, you may need new torsion bars. Just like gas struts, the torsion in these bars start to fade after years.

Especially if you had non-spoiler bars, and you added a spoiler added afterwards. You can find the OEM parts for sale in the parts diagrams.
Old 11-01-11, 07:14 PM
  #44  
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so i had the same problem with my trunk since i had the spoiler and the truck would easy fall and close, this once it actually fell while i was getting something and left me a nasty bruised back.

i used to this DIY without any luck so i decided to drill my own hole, like so
i would recommend doing this if the factory strongest setting is still not fixing the problem but be very careful not to over drill as it may accidentally drill through places you dont want to drill
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Old 11-02-11, 12:54 AM
  #45  
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Did this as soon as I read this DIY, great write up..

I opened my boot, and as i sat in the car with a screw driver to pry the clips out the lid closed and the hinge hit me in the side of the knee.. have an epic bruise now -.- but now the trunk opens by itself worth it? I think so.


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