vasgs4

I'm going to be replacing my sub. Looks like the JL is not really around anymore, what other subs have you guys used with running the original ML amp?

Blk03GS430

I believe from researching this issue that there is no direct drop in replacement that works with the factory amp. Our amp is too weak to power an aftermarket sub. Also aftermarket sub will not bolt in directly to the factory mounting location in the rear deck. Theres a DIY on this forum to show you how to make a mounting surface out of mdf for the aftermarket sub.

The cheapest replacement aftermarket sub I found was Kicker 10C108 Comp 10" 8-ohm subwoofer. It is the same size and Ohm rating as the ML sub but its rated for 50-150 watts rms. I doubt our ML amps can do 50 watts rms. It will probably work ok but it can also damage the sub if you under power it.

I havent done this yet because I may go with the Kicker 10C104 Comp 10" 4-ohm sub - 4-ohm version of the same sub and run a mono amp or dual channel amp bridged to it. I would love to just drop in the 10C108 Comp 10" 8-ohm subwoofer and call it a day. I rather spend a little more money and do it the right way with an amp if if it doesnt work well without an amp.

Has anyone used the Kicker 10C108 Comp 10" 8-ohm subwoofer with the Mark Levinson factory amp? What were the results?

Does anyone know the specifications of our ML amp and system?

Redpaste

iTrader: (4)

I'll let you know tomorrow. I should be done finishing the install, but from hooking it up not mounted, the sub is hardly audible. The stock amp will not push this sub hard enough. I bought the same Kicker 10 inch free air sub rated at 8ohms.

Blk03GS430

ok cool. It sounds like you need an amp to push that kicker sub. pls keep me updated. thanks

vasgs4

I'd really like a solution that doesn't involve replacing the amp and leaving it as oem as possible.

Redpaste

iTrader: (4)

Blk03GS430,

Install is taking much longer than anticipated. The Kicker sub can not be bottom-mounted like the ED Sub show on the first page of this thread. This is because, I do not think it was made for this application and it did not come with a sub mounting-ring.

Top mounting it on MDF board is not possible either due to the thickness of the board. I bought 3/4inch board, but even with a 1/4inch board, the rear lid would not be able to slide on top of it.

I may just drill through the metal lid, but in the end I think this is all a waste of time because the stock amp will not push this sub. I don't know how the other owners of the JL IB4 did it, but I highly doubt it as well.

Vandy

iTrader: (3)

Why can't car manufactures design parts that are easy to replace even with aftermarket parts like lights or other stuff. I want to run my factory amp but with an aftermarket sub. Grant it, it only took about an hour to get to the sub I shouldn't have to spend a day trying to get a new sub to fit perfectly!

Kubs

Click through my posts you'll find your answer... Also use any 8ohm, Free air 10" sub will work fine with ML Amp... you'll be fine!

I'm doing this second time around. Blew my JL little nephewthought it was funny to set the Mode volume control to full blast.

Blk03GS430

It appears that Redpaste tried a Kicker 10C108 Comp 10" 8-ohm subwoofer and the ML amp is not strong enough to push it because the sub is rated for 50-150 watts rms. So my question is how did you get it to work Kubs?

vasgs4

Where is the stock ML amp located? Has anyone used the same wiring and just hook up an aftermarket amp?

Acidic

iTrader: (1)

It's on the right hand side of the trunk uner the carpet/nav brain. The stock wiring would not support a higher powered amp because the power wires are too small. You would want to run at least 10 or 8ga power/ground wires for even a modest amp. It's not all that hard but if you are uncomfortable learning how you will want to pay a shop to install everything

vasgs4

I've installed plenty of stereos, I just don't want to run a wire from the battery back. I really like to keep my cars stock these days but the blown sub is having me look at options.

As long as I keep a stock "look", I'm okay but I like having a trunk. When I had 2 15" or 3 10"'s in my Acura, I couldn't even fit a set of golf clubs in.

gdigio13

Hey guys, I have posted on this thread a couple times previously. I tried to hot glue solution, depending on how bad the speaker is, forget that. I had the factory ML woofer re-coned for $40.00. Now its like brand new. I used a place in the Clearwater/ St. Petersburg FL area. I think that is the best solution. Hope this helps.

Eat_It430

Hey. Just like gdigio13 did. I had my ML speaker repaired by a local speaker repair shop in Orange County, CA. The name of the shop is called Orange County Speaker. There website is www.speakerrepair.com. From what I was told there, my speaker did not need a re-cone(when they replace everything in the speaker) just a re-edge(when the replace the rotten foam) They charged me $65 for the repair and the results are good as new. If you are a DIYer, they also offer the foam and glue. For anyone local, I think you should consider them. They have great CS and did a great job on my speaker.I checked out there site and from what I see, they do tons of ML speakers.

Eat_It430

here is a link to there repair pics of a ML speaker

http://www.speakerrepair.com/mm5/mer...Category_Code=