GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

List all of the significant problems you've had with your GS

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Old 02-04-08, 07:42 PM
  #61  
Lettuce
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79k and only had to replace the 02 sensor.
Old 02-05-08, 10:39 PM
  #62  
DallasLex
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Originally Posted by Oleg400
Good choice still the best in its class nuff said, these are not really big problems, very small actually nothing really major beside just regular service like the timing belt and etc..
But lets get a list for E class or a 5 series about the stuff that goes wrong and if it can last up to 210k just by replacing the timing elt and water pump.
I guess the first thing I'll have checked is the ball joints. Other than that I hope it passes Texas inspection since I'm buying it from out of state. BTW,
good luck on your court date!
Old 02-06-08, 08:40 AM
  #63  
REELhybrid
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99 GS3 w/65k miles

Temp reads -22, tried to reset but didn't work so i just left it
Notice the front end is squeaking over bumps; probably balljoints
Old 02-06-08, 07:58 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Oleg400
Good choice still the best in its class nuff said, these are not really big problems, very small actually nothing really major beside just regular service like the timing belt and etc..
But lets get a list for E class or a 5 series about the stuff that goes wrong and if it can last up to 210k just by replacing the timing elt and water pump.
I am looking to get into a GS400 or GS430 within a week or so. I currently drive a 2000 E430 Mercedes and frankly I was getting tired of it. I have had a few problems with it as with most cars but after driving my buddy's GS400, I was quite impressed with the ride. Much better IMHO that the MBZ. After reading these post, I am a bit more cautious about the GS I choose.

Do you think you have more problems with cars that are driven harder or it seems to happen to them all?

Thanks for your help and input.
Old 02-06-08, 08:29 PM
  #65  
alexulan
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Update 2000 GS400 close to 110K

Front Ball Joints at 65K. Car is on 18"s lowered 1"
Condensation in the headlamps at 80K
Fan Shroud - 90K
Sunshade rattle - leave open 1/2"
Lazy Driver side Window
Just did all the bushing kits 110K - WOW what a difference in ride!


That's IT!

Car is wonderful.

Thanks to all for the great info.

I feel very good about this car lasting another 8 years easy!

Last edited by alexulan; 05-14-11 at 03:10 PM.
Old 02-08-08, 10:26 PM
  #66  
DallasLex
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Originally Posted by alexulan
2000 GS400 close to 80K
Front Ball Joints at 65K. Car is on 18"s lowered 1"
Condensation in the headlamps at 80K!
Would a hair dryer work well on getting the condensation out(by removing the bulb first of course)? or is there a better way other than buying new HL's?
Old 02-09-08, 07:04 AM
  #67  
GSing430
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seems like more problems with 98-00 than 01+
02 gs430 with 100k
dealer replaced headlights and emblems at 43k
I'm due to get my 90k service done
replaced battery at 95k
the only problem I might have is my driver windows acts up once in a blue moon. With the window halfway down I would hit the switch to roll the window up, but instead it rolls the window all the way down.
other than that, its been solid.
so far this car has been solid for me
Old 02-09-08, 04:21 PM
  #68  
UncleRay
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Girls running up to the car, touching and getting their dirty, greasy hands all over my baby!!! Damn women!!!
Old 04-24-08, 09:15 AM
  #69  
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01' GS430 with 72k on the clock... Only issue is the steering tilt makes a squeaking noise on a hot day. Just stopped by AutoZone and picked up some White Lithium grease to try out today though.

Other than that, my baby drives and sounds brand new with zero problems
Old 04-24-08, 11:12 AM
  #70  
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1998 GS4 w/112k miles

-Shift level control unit (2006)
-Rear passenger door lock actuator (2005)
-Telescope steering no longer retracts due to lack of grease. (2007)

That's it. Gotta love Toyota's reliability.
Old 04-24-08, 03:18 PM
  #71  
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i have just hit 126,000 miles
i bought mine at 92,000 miles and the previous owner said he changed the timing belt. He did that but didn't change the water pump or serpentine belt.
well on Monday the right cam shaft seal blew out and once we went in to repair it, we found the water pump leaking, an aftermarket timing belt, a worn tensioner, a worn idler, and now the radiator started leaking.

if you do decide to purchase one over 90,000 miles don't trust anything unless you see a receipt from a reputable repair facility.
Old 07-28-08, 03:53 PM
  #72  
zacky
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Bought Mine 4 Months Ago At 95k. Changed Ball Joints And Front Left Tie Rods (inner And Outer). Cleaned Out The Throttle Body,maf And Changed Air Filter. Also Changed Battery. So Far So Good. Currently I Have 108k, Planning To Change The Timing Belt At 120k.
If Only Gas Would Be Cheaper For My V8 Baby...
Old 07-28-08, 04:10 PM
  #73  
j stuff
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AC dont work, continous leaking

problem is a/c condensor

over $1000 parts and labor. I let the car sit in the garage instead of fixing it atm

if u search for it, youll find a few threads. semi common.
Old 07-28-08, 04:16 PM
  #74  
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Seems as though most of these problems are just standard maintenance issues guys. Ball joints, water pumps, belts etc....thats all stuff you should be changing BEFORE it goes bad. Every car is going to have "problems" if it's not maintained whether it's a Hyundai or a Lexus. I just hope people aren't confusing things that need to be replaced once in 100,000 miles to be "issues" as they are simply taking care of your investment.
Old 07-28-08, 07:04 PM
  #75  
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So what are the initial signs of ball joints going bad. I had my mechanic look at the car he said everything looks and feels tight. I know I am not crazy the car just doesn't drive the same. When I turn the car I do hear/feel something. I dont think its the wheel bearing when driving and changing lanes I do not hear any noise. Someone mentioned the wheel is straight but they seem to be fighting the wheel a little, I feel the same way. It is not too bad but I want to fix this problem. Are these signs of bad ball joints???


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