Most Bar for the Buck
I was wondering what would be the best upgrade, dollar for dollar between the...
Tower Bar ~ 215
Lower Chasis Brace ~ 170
Sway Bars ~ 540
I already have the Tein HAs and planning on getting the L-Tuned ECU, but I'm still looking to get some additional handling improvements. Where should I spend my hard earned dollars at
Tower Bar ~ 215
Lower Chasis Brace ~ 170
Sway Bars ~ 540
I already have the Tein HAs and planning on getting the L-Tuned ECU, but I'm still looking to get some additional handling improvements. Where should I spend my hard earned dollars at

I agree with the above, as far as bang for the buck.
However, for a couple of reasons I'd suggest that you go ahead with strut tower braces and chassis braces, too. Making the chassis a more rigid "box" provides a more stable platform from which to hang your suspension - the whole idea is to keep your wheel/tire combination perpendicular to the road surface under as wide a range of cornering conditions and loads as possible. The more rigid your platform, the less it bends and/or twists when force is applied to it. This means that, when you apply force to alter the car's direction (turn), less of that force is "wasted" by torquing your chassis and more is used to change the car's direction. What you notice is a quicker sense of turn-in and more precise steering feel.
Plus, over time the more rigid box should lead to less rattles and squeaks. Finally (ok, it's more than a couple), considering the money that you've already spent, spending a little more probably isn't excessive.
Disregard all of the above if you were going to do all this anyway, and just wanted opinions on the sequence of additions.
However, for a couple of reasons I'd suggest that you go ahead with strut tower braces and chassis braces, too. Making the chassis a more rigid "box" provides a more stable platform from which to hang your suspension - the whole idea is to keep your wheel/tire combination perpendicular to the road surface under as wide a range of cornering conditions and loads as possible. The more rigid your platform, the less it bends and/or twists when force is applied to it. This means that, when you apply force to alter the car's direction (turn), less of that force is "wasted" by torquing your chassis and more is used to change the car's direction. What you notice is a quicker sense of turn-in and more precise steering feel.
Plus, over time the more rigid box should lead to less rattles and squeaks. Finally (ok, it's more than a couple), considering the money that you've already spent, spending a little more probably isn't excessive.
Disregard all of the above if you were going to do all this anyway, and just wanted opinions on the sequence of additions.
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fierce gs
Suspension and Brakes
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Nov 2, 2001 12:10 PM



