0-60 mph = 11.13 sec without nitrous
#3
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Re: 0-60 mph = 11.13 sec without nitrous
Originally posted by marcus
With nitrous, 0-60 mph is 8.94 sec. Quite a change! What an adreneline rush!!!
With nitrous, 0-60 mph is 8.94 sec. Quite a change! What an adreneline rush!!!
#4
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no joke
Just got it running this past weekend. started with smallest jet as they suggested and then used next 2 larger jets with no pre-detonation (knock). I am keeping largest jet installed.
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Marcus, glad to see you got your kit installed!! would you mind giving a write up on the overall expierience?? Install, day to day living, ease of operation, etc. I know alot f guys here have bee thinking about the NOS route.
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Yes, maybe tonight
Yes, maybe tonight. Those of you who have a stock time of this good or better need to realize us 1st gen guys are trying to accelerate a lot of weight (almost 4,000 lbs!)
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#8
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marcus, what's the best way to get your 0-60 reading accurately? I'd be more than happy to post up what my '93 bone-stock GS can do for comparison. I might cheat and reset the ECU first, though, because I think my car shifts too soon out of 1st. Yes ECT power is on.
#9
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yo, marcus........
what set-up jettings are you running now? for both fuel/nos?
did you change yr fuel pump? are you running at least 100 shot or 80 shot single port/direct port?
and did you retard the timing a little bit?
and also, did you change yr spark plugs to colder ones?
to really make sure yr car does not run any "richer", take out the spark plugs and make sure
the color of the tip is at least dark brown, but "not" black or really burn out looking! that is what of the ways you can tell if the car is running on the rich or lean side. but if you have an air/fuel ratio gauge, then it shudn't be any problem guessing it.
kindly give more details........yeah?
what set-up jettings are you running now? for both fuel/nos?
did you change yr fuel pump? are you running at least 100 shot or 80 shot single port/direct port?
and did you retard the timing a little bit?
and also, did you change yr spark plugs to colder ones?
to really make sure yr car does not run any "richer", take out the spark plugs and make sure
the color of the tip is at least dark brown, but "not" black or really burn out looking! that is what of the ways you can tell if the car is running on the rich or lean side. but if you have an air/fuel ratio gauge, then it shudn't be any problem guessing it.
kindly give more details........yeah?
#10
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first gen 0-60
The first gen's 0-60 time is supposed to be about 8.4 seconds stock. If you could only do it in 11 seconds, you should unhitch the trailer and try again.
#11
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Here are some answers
1st of all, can anyone verify that they have a stock 1st Gen that runs 0-60 in less than 9 seconds. If they do, then I just wasted a lot of time and money!
I purchased a universal kit that was set up for 2.5 litre to 3.0 litre engines with multiport fuel injection. This is NOS brand name by Holley. You get 3 jets, .032,.034, and .036 thousandths. You are asked to start with the smallest jet and work your way up. The jet change out takes all of 3 minutes. I did this and each jet made a very noticible difference from the one before. The greatest thing about this project is that I did not need to retard the timing, and there is no knock at all (pre-detonation).
The reason this has taken so long to get installed is because our 1st gen does not have a fuel test port on the fuel rail.... without this port, there is no place to install the fuel pressure sensor , which is a safety device that will not allow nitrous into the engine unless there is proof that the fuel pressure to the stock fuel injectors has shot up to 60-70 psi. The kit I bought is a "dry charge" system, which means that you continue to use the stock fuel injectors, fuel pump, computer, etc...... everything on your car stays stock. The kit claims up to 60 more horsepower at the rear wheels when using the biggest metering jet. (.036). Now, back to the test port. I had to purchase a special tap and drill to actually drill a hole in the aluminum fuel rail and tap threads into the fuel rail so I could install this sensor. That job was not for the weak of heart, because if you screw up, you might need to replace the fuel rail, which I assume could be $300 to $400 bucks. And yes, metal shavings did get into the fuel rail.... I did not remove the fuel rail as that is quite a bit of work. I was able to fish the metal shavings out with cotton swabs.... but.... if you fail to get them all out, you might damage your fuel injectors, maybe even the engine. Still want to take this job on yourself?????? I only did it because I have over 30 years of experience with auto repair (any maybe a few dead brain cells!)
I suspect that I can get the 0-60 mph time a touch lower for 2 reasons.... 1. the nitrous bottle should be at a temp of 80 degrees to develop a pressure of 1100 psi, but i doubt that the bottle temp was over 65 degrees. (still cool here in Michigan). I noticed a slight momentary loss of power half way thru some of the runs I did, I think because the bottle pressure dropped. 2. i turned off traction control and now the rear wheel breaks loose. ( not a bad problem if trying to impress someone, but adds to your 0-60 time.)
This system has an arming switch which I mounted next to the "trac off" button. This switch will cut all electricity to the system so the little woman won't accidentally kick in the "juice." You are supposed to leave the bottle valve open 24/7, but have not done that yet out of caution that if I have a leak somewhere, I will loose the nitrous, which came out to be $3.50 per pound. The only was to kick in the nitrous is going full throttle. No button to push anymore, because apparently people were kicking in nitrous before they should.... NOS states that nitrous should not be squirting under 2500 to 3000 rpm.
Overall, I am glad I did this. It does throw you back in the seat, not as much as a big block v-8 can. Even with completely stock exhaust, you get a nice muffled roar. The change in acceleration makes you feel like you are driving a different car! I am looking foward to further tweaking in the future. I will soon install a 12 volt electric blanket to heat the bottle up to the recommended 80 degrees. I might even drill out the smallest jet to .038 thousandths and see if the stock injectors can deliver enought fuel to give even faster times. OK, what are you guys thinking??????
I purchased a universal kit that was set up for 2.5 litre to 3.0 litre engines with multiport fuel injection. This is NOS brand name by Holley. You get 3 jets, .032,.034, and .036 thousandths. You are asked to start with the smallest jet and work your way up. The jet change out takes all of 3 minutes. I did this and each jet made a very noticible difference from the one before. The greatest thing about this project is that I did not need to retard the timing, and there is no knock at all (pre-detonation).
The reason this has taken so long to get installed is because our 1st gen does not have a fuel test port on the fuel rail.... without this port, there is no place to install the fuel pressure sensor , which is a safety device that will not allow nitrous into the engine unless there is proof that the fuel pressure to the stock fuel injectors has shot up to 60-70 psi. The kit I bought is a "dry charge" system, which means that you continue to use the stock fuel injectors, fuel pump, computer, etc...... everything on your car stays stock. The kit claims up to 60 more horsepower at the rear wheels when using the biggest metering jet. (.036). Now, back to the test port. I had to purchase a special tap and drill to actually drill a hole in the aluminum fuel rail and tap threads into the fuel rail so I could install this sensor. That job was not for the weak of heart, because if you screw up, you might need to replace the fuel rail, which I assume could be $300 to $400 bucks. And yes, metal shavings did get into the fuel rail.... I did not remove the fuel rail as that is quite a bit of work. I was able to fish the metal shavings out with cotton swabs.... but.... if you fail to get them all out, you might damage your fuel injectors, maybe even the engine. Still want to take this job on yourself?????? I only did it because I have over 30 years of experience with auto repair (any maybe a few dead brain cells!)
I suspect that I can get the 0-60 mph time a touch lower for 2 reasons.... 1. the nitrous bottle should be at a temp of 80 degrees to develop a pressure of 1100 psi, but i doubt that the bottle temp was over 65 degrees. (still cool here in Michigan). I noticed a slight momentary loss of power half way thru some of the runs I did, I think because the bottle pressure dropped. 2. i turned off traction control and now the rear wheel breaks loose. ( not a bad problem if trying to impress someone, but adds to your 0-60 time.)
This system has an arming switch which I mounted next to the "trac off" button. This switch will cut all electricity to the system so the little woman won't accidentally kick in the "juice." You are supposed to leave the bottle valve open 24/7, but have not done that yet out of caution that if I have a leak somewhere, I will loose the nitrous, which came out to be $3.50 per pound. The only was to kick in the nitrous is going full throttle. No button to push anymore, because apparently people were kicking in nitrous before they should.... NOS states that nitrous should not be squirting under 2500 to 3000 rpm.
Overall, I am glad I did this. It does throw you back in the seat, not as much as a big block v-8 can. Even with completely stock exhaust, you get a nice muffled roar. The change in acceleration makes you feel like you are driving a different car! I am looking foward to further tweaking in the future. I will soon install a 12 volt electric blanket to heat the bottle up to the recommended 80 degrees. I might even drill out the smallest jet to .038 thousandths and see if the stock injectors can deliver enought fuel to give even faster times. OK, what are you guys thinking??????
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Re: Here are some answers
Originally posted by marcus
OK, what are you guys thinking??????
OK, what are you guys thinking??????
You will be happier when your car is in good running condition, I think you should be running to 60 in around 7 seconds. Good luck
#13
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thanks for the info
I really want to hear from guys who have tried 0-60 with their gs. Is it possible that the later 1st gen that have another gear in the AT might be doing this????? My son has a 94 gs, i have a 93 gs. His runs approx the same time with out nitrous. I did a complete tune up, new plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Fuel injectors got a big dose of cleaner before these results were taken. Come on guys..... what are you coming up with? Just use a digital stop watch with hundreds of a second display and give it a try.
#14
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hey marcus, how come you didn't purchase the "wet" system instead? any difference?
i used to have direct port back in the days with my acura integra with total of 80shot, 20shot per cylinder of course. i had so much fun with that car, no doubt. i had the kit to be activated by a throttle switch to make
sure it's safe. my question is, if i do get the "wet" system, what else wud i need in order to make it work since you alrdy finished installing yours? you mentioned you didn't change yr fuel pump, spark plugs nor retard yr timing a few degrees. you do have a single fogger, right? where did you install such fogger?
my car has over 120000 miles on it and yeah, im still debating if i shud get the wet system or not.
but with yr experience and adv, maybe ill try to get more infos about it.....tks buddy and good luck !!
i used to have direct port back in the days with my acura integra with total of 80shot, 20shot per cylinder of course. i had so much fun with that car, no doubt. i had the kit to be activated by a throttle switch to make
sure it's safe. my question is, if i do get the "wet" system, what else wud i need in order to make it work since you alrdy finished installing yours? you mentioned you didn't change yr fuel pump, spark plugs nor retard yr timing a few degrees. you do have a single fogger, right? where did you install such fogger?
my car has over 120000 miles on it and yeah, im still debating if i shud get the wet system or not.
but with yr experience and adv, maybe ill try to get more infos about it.....tks buddy and good luck !!
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Indypower
A wet system, of course is going to cost upwards of $600 to $800 more, and that does not include replacing your fuel injectors, and a higher capacity fuel pump. Plus I would not have the guts to try and drill and tap new holes for each cylinder into the head, which is steel, not aluminum like most other cars. I was sweating it just drilling and tapping one hole for the fuel pressure sensor..... so if you had that done professionally, you are upping the bucks even more.
I am happy with this power boost that I am getting and i am going to push the envelope by placing a metering jet one size bigger than they recommend. It is interesting to know that some guy in California was able to produce 1200 horsepower out of this engine. The main advantage we have is that with an iron head and block, you would have to do something pretty crazy to cause damage to our "iron horse".
Concerning the fogger. it was easily installed by drilling a hole in the plastic air tube between the airbox and intake manifold. I will attach a picture soon of this and some other areas of interest.
Another main reason that I did not want to go with a wet system is that I drive my car on company business, and I do not want to take the chance that installing larger capacity fuel injectors might permanently reduce my mileage. I am still waiting for some brave souls to see what they run in 0 to 60 with a stock engine. I remember reading something in the past from this web site that someone really came down hard on our engine, stating that it is a dog.... that's kind of harsh, but somewhat true.
I am happy with this power boost that I am getting and i am going to push the envelope by placing a metering jet one size bigger than they recommend. It is interesting to know that some guy in California was able to produce 1200 horsepower out of this engine. The main advantage we have is that with an iron head and block, you would have to do something pretty crazy to cause damage to our "iron horse".
Concerning the fogger. it was easily installed by drilling a hole in the plastic air tube between the airbox and intake manifold. I will attach a picture soon of this and some other areas of interest.
Another main reason that I did not want to go with a wet system is that I drive my car on company business, and I do not want to take the chance that installing larger capacity fuel injectors might permanently reduce my mileage. I am still waiting for some brave souls to see what they run in 0 to 60 with a stock engine. I remember reading something in the past from this web site that someone really came down hard on our engine, stating that it is a dog.... that's kind of harsh, but somewhat true.