GS - 1st Gen (1993-1997) Discussion about the first generation GS300

Project: headlight Mod: version 2

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Old 12-11-10, 09:14 PM
  #31  
jmax.garage
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Been doing this for years on customer cars, so im saying it from experience, not to be a smartass or ahole.

See for yourself the results

http://vipstylecars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24184

Also lmk if u guys want a step by step diy on this since it is actually purrty easy.
Old 12-11-10, 10:11 PM
  #32  
deknick
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and yea, looking at your thread, i don't think it'll work

i'm using 180 grit sandpaper on the inside of hte lense.

have you completely cleared the inside of hte lenses using your method of spray paint?
Old 12-11-10, 11:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by deknick
so instead of polishing, you spray painted them with a clear coat?
i did both guy i wet sanded and hand polished then i cleared over them the clear covered up any remaining scratches

this

with this

and after final clear
Old 12-12-10, 06:32 AM
  #34  
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So if you use 180, start gradually going up in grit till u get to 1000.
To do the outside lens all i usually do is 800 wetsand then 1000 wetsand followed by gray scotch brite with prepping soap then clear. Since the inside of the lens has the grooves, the goal is to remoce them. I would do it as follows: 180 dry till i get all the humps more less, 220 dry, 320 dry, the wetsand with 400, 800, 1000, scotch brite w prepping soap, then clear.
The only reason me personally dont like polishing is because over time the lens will get yellow and the only way to remove the yellowish is bt repolishing. By clear coating the lens you are basically sealing the plastic adding a coat of protection if you may thus eliminating yellowing. Again this is just the method i follow based on my experience.
The way you are doing it is fine as well the only thing i am a bit afraid of is if it yellows in the inside you will have to take it appart to clean it up. My method is a bit more work but eliminates yellowing.
Old 12-12-10, 10:23 AM
  #35  
rapollon
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Originally Posted by kidzik007
So if you use 180, start gradually going up in grit till u get to 1000.
To do the outside lens all i usually do is 800 wetsand then 1000 wetsand followed by gray scotch brite with prepping soap then clear. Since the inside of the lens has the grooves, the goal is to remoce them. I would do it as follows: 180 dry till i get all the humps more less, 220 dry, 320 dry, the wetsand with 400, 800, 1000, scotch brite w prepping soap, then clear.
The only reason me personally dont like polishing is because over time the lens will get yellow and the only way to remove the yellowish is bt repolishing. By clear coating the lens you are basically sealing the plastic adding a coat of protection if you may thus eliminating yellowing. Again this is just the method i follow based on my experience.
The way you are doing it is fine as well the only thing i am a bit afraid of is if it yellows in the inside you will have to take it appart to clean it up. My method is a bit more work but eliminates yellowing.
Correct, the yellowing is not from the plastic itself. As you can see when you cut into the lens it clears up. Its the UV coat which has broken down that causes the top layer to yellow. I'd suggest doing a clear coat also.
Old 12-12-10, 12:07 PM
  #36  
deknick
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so what product do you use to clear it with? and is it spray painted on? or do you have to get a auto painting place to use a air gun to put it on?
and what is the scotch brite soap? i've never seen or heard of it up here

cause i have some minor hazing in the one that i've polished up, cause i didn't spend e nough time with 2000 and above before polishing, so i'll have to resand it anywant and re polish it.

but my main objective is to get ride of the lines first in the 2nd one. i'm not looking for something that'll last 20 years, cause well i'm sure the car wont' even last that long
Old 12-12-10, 02:15 PM
  #37  
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Thats right, you have to spray it with a spray gun. Also, the hazing will start appearing within a week or so. Thats the reason I started using clear
Old 12-12-10, 03:25 PM
  #38  
deknick
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it's been about a month since i polished up that one, and it hasn't hazed, it just never got 100% clear in the first place.

the lights on my car have been on for a year and 4 months, after completed my last project and they're still clear
Old 02-20-11, 08:54 PM
  #39  
deknick
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ok guys, some might have been patiently waiting for this, some could prolly care less. i'm really pumped right now.

i think i'm almost starting to be in the home stretch of completion:



Old 02-20-11, 09:20 PM
  #40  
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Omg omg omg omg omg!!! I wanna do that with mine!!!
Old 02-20-11, 09:41 PM
  #41  
deknick
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hahaha, i can give you hints to doing it if you want. the first hint, is if you don't have patience and a lot of free time on your hands. DON'T start it, lol
Old 02-20-11, 10:08 PM
  #42  
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Well I do have have to get myself a daily Z32 or AE86 before I proceed any further with my 147

BTW do you know how I can get my JDM tail lights repaired and restored?
Old 02-21-11, 11:04 AM
  #43  
deknick
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uhhh, a daily Z32? were you looking at buying some reliable? cause a z32 isn't really the best method to go about that with, specially if it's TT.

and just buy a spare set of headlights, bake them apart and start sanding away, that way your car won't be down and out for weeks or months at a time ( like mine would have been if i didn't get a 3rd set of lights) haha

what's wrong with your JDM tails?
Old 02-21-11, 07:18 PM
  #44  
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Cracks on the corners and stuff.
Old 02-21-11, 08:20 PM
  #45  
deknick
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your **** outta luck then, unless you want them looking like ****. if the plastic is cracked, there's not much to do, your best bet is to source out a new set, i know of 2 parts cars i can get parts from, i can get oyu thier contact information if you'd liek


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