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Alternator problem

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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 08:22 PM
  #16  
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link? i can't find it. Thanks.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #17  
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are you saying a supra alternator is a direct fit? if so there are tons of high output alternators for supra's
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:07 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by shoaf213
I don't yet, well, I do, it's just not installed yet....So, I'm guessing that my problem will only get worse then
I can't stress enough how bad UD pulleys are, unless you have a race car with no creature comforts. Your better off finding a stock size crank pulley that has only been lightened. I curse the day I put an UD pulleuy on my lex. It will be coming off at the next timing belt change. Yes. it will get worse along with your power steering.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:09 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Jmai22
i read you ad. what does it mean enternal/internal? Also what brand name is it?. Thanks.
That's internal or external voltage regulator. Meaning do you want it to be set or do YOU want to set it. It's a Denso alternator.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:17 PM
  #20  
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hmm.. interesting... let me know more about it. like how its set. etc... also do you have a print out to show what it outputs? i need to order one tonight ASAP. Thanks.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:40 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Jmai22
hmm.. interesting... let me know more about it. like how its set. etc... also do you have a print out to show what it outputs? i need to order one tonight ASAP. Thanks.
Jmai, I don't have a printout. I bought the alternator from Highoutputalternators.com and it lasted about a year. Since then I've rebuilt it with heavy duty components and ran it in my Lex with an UD pulley and external regulator and it lasted about another year. I then went to a 200amp alternator which lasted about a year and I just rebuilt it. My car puts out 14.9 volts at a cold idle, then when it warms up and the idle drops, it slowly goes down because of the UD pulley spinning everything slower, which is why it's coming off. If I had the stock crank pulley on I wouldn't be having these problems. I could build a bulletproof alternator, like I did in my MX6. It has a 300amp alternator, that used to go out every 6 months from the heat and 6 amplifiers and 25 speakers. Since I built it bulletproof, it's been working flawlessly for 4 years!!! It's expensive and alot of work To be honest with you any alternator you buy is going to be about the same. Everyone out there just takes the stock alternator and puts in a bunch of heavy duty parts and calls it a hi amp alternator. Or beefs up the stators and not the rotor. I've found one guy who beefs up the rotors and the stators and he's who I get the alt's I sell on here from. Once you get a good alternator , like the ones I sell, you can bulletproof them or keep rebuilding them better, if you need to. If your car idles at the OEM idle setting and you don't have an UD pulley, you'll probably be fine. Unless you just get a POS alternator. I've tried about every alternator out there and all have failed on me. Make sure you ask whomever you buy it from if they beef up the stator as well as the rotors. One without the other is asking for a failure.
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 11:45 PM
  #22  
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Was the alternator I bought from you a rebuilt denso? If it was, its working fine, its been working awesome for over a year now. I dont know what you did to it, but thanks. If anyone wants my stock alt. so Turbo can rebuild it, offer me something and pay shipping and its yours
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 12:55 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Abear
Was the alternator I bought from you a rebuilt denso? If it was, its working fine, its been working awesome for over a year now. I dont know what you did to it, but thanks. If anyone wants my stock alt. so Turbo can rebuild it, offer me something and pay shipping and its yours
Yours has the beefed up stator and rotor
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 01:02 AM
  #24  
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There you go John! it's 80 amps.

http://www.densoproducts.com/results...umber=210-0169
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 01:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by LexAristo
Looks just like mine, except mine has an extra 100amps and only cost me 50 bucks more...plus shipping
THANKS TURBOGS300

LMAO at that sounding like an infomercial.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 09:38 AM
  #26  
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I just ordered mine from 4alterstart. it was 299 for 165 amp with certificate to show its output. and 2 year warranty. haha. i need the warranty because of my sound system. They were great. before i got off the phone they said i needed to upgrade my power cable from the alternator to the battery to 4 gauge. It means they know their stuff.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 11:01 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Jmai22
I just ordered mine from 4alterstart. it was 299 for 165 amp with certificate to show its output. and 2 year warranty. haha. i need the warranty because of my sound system. They were great. before i got off the phone they said i needed to upgrade my power cable from the alternator to the battery to 4 gauge. It means they know their stuff.
Like I said, I hope yours works, Bobby is a good guy, no doubt, but mine was/is crap
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 02:51 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jmai22
I just ordered mine from 4alterstart. it was 299 for 165 amp with certificate to show its output. and 2 year warranty. haha. i need the warranty because of my sound system. They were great. before i got off the phone they said i needed to upgrade my power cable from the alternator to the battery to 4 gauge. It means they know their stuff.
I've got the same one coming. We'll compare notes in a few months.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 03:20 PM
  #29  
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Let me know how your install goes.... any problems you come up with. I want to be prepared.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 03:25 PM
  #30  
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Guys, can someone please explain to me this:

Just got a radar detector that shows volatage of the car. It was about high 13s at idle. When i flip the AC on voltage jumps down a little but then recovers.

The BIGGEST mystery is my brakes and how they drain all my power!!

I was drivin today with the AC on and nothing else, voltage hovered around 13.6 as i push on the brakes to slow down, voltage begins to dip and as i come to a stop, it hovers around 12.5 and then goes down .1 volts every 5 seconds and goes down to 11.7!! Can someone please explain to me WHAT THE %$%% is goin on?!?

When i throw it in to neutral, it goes up gradually and when i push on the gas, it jumps back to mid/high 13s again.

I think my alternator is goin on out on me, what do u guys think?????
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