Thanks for this thread, I'm in Tampa so pretty close to you.

My audio has been intermittently cutting out. It works for the most part but on hot days I'll have no sound from the speakers (display works fine). Sounds like another ML amp starting to fail but what else can be done besides sending it to United for repair?

 

LLooks like it's the amp my friend unfortunately. You can ohm it out at the pin connectors and verify if you are able to do so but it appears based on what you said the amp is toast. I would ohm it out see what you get. Play music and monitor the readings as well when you back probe it.

Member with the key issues. Does the switch or button if you will illuminate any color when your foot is on the brake like you'd be starting it? Also please check that when foot is depressing brake pedal that the brake lights do in fact come on.

 

Check the above post instructions I posted underneath the amplifier question that another member had.

 

I don’t remember the start button ever lighting up or maybe never really paid attention. I’ll check if brake lights come on

 

Here are some updates we thought it was just the steering wheel actuator that was bad. Turns out that’s not the only issue


Come to find out I have major issues ecu & everything is fried it turns out . Either Thor used his hammer on my **** or something else crazy happened. Now I’m going through insurance.

Edit

 

@Armadous1 What’s your best advice for bleeding the ABS module on a ‘97 SC400? I don’t have many dirt roads at my disposal and the prospect of panic stops on such a surface with my paint and wheels is a non-starter for me lol

Is there a way to actuate those solenoids electronically or is my car just too old for that kind of wizardry?

Thanks!

Nick

 

Just an update car repair is 16k and labor is 10k. So it’s a total loss

 

I have a problem where occasionally the start button will not light so I can't start the car. The fault I've seen a couple of times is B2799 (immobilizer) but get failures without it. I've had a mechanic look at it and try many things. It appears to be a voltage or ECU issue.

• If the battery is fully charged (12v+) it starts, otherwise no light when brake depressed.
• The orange lead (VC5 or LIN I think) to the certification ECU reads about 10v when disconnected from the ECU and 5.25v when connected
• The start light does not come on and the voltages are about the same on the orange lead. If 12v from battery is connected to orange lead for a moment everything works again

The mechanic has spent a good bit of time with Lexus tech support and they're thinking 1 or more of 3 ECUs which is a bit expensive.

The most curious thing is that it is an intermittent rather than a hard fault which rules out a lot of things. It is also strange to have such a fault with a digital system. On occasion there's been a current draw from the battery when the car is off.

Typically the car works fine then when you enter the ignition does not give a green or any light when the brake is depressed. The door open light is on in the dash and the key fob will lock/unlock the doors. The car will start if it is jumped or there is a charger on it. The tech has shown me when it is in failure mode, he taps the orange lead with 12v from the battery and the green ignition light goes on and the car starts.

I was able to do a little experimenting a couple of days later with the car:

• The battery was down to 11.97v. The orange wire from certification ECU is probably either VC5 from the ignition switch or LIN from main ECU. After touching with 12v from battery: wire has a clip now one side had 2.25v declining to 1.97v over a few minutes and11.22v on the other. When connected 7.25v. Key fob would not open doors, no ignition light on depressing brake pedal even holding fob (battery 2.97v) to switch.
• Put car on charger, battery 13.18v, orange wire 2.35v and 13.21v with 8.2v combined. Ignition and door locks not reacting (no light or action).
• Held fob to switch and got beep and white light on ignition
• Minutes later got orange light and key not detected on dash
• Tried touching fob to switch again, got green light and car started but still can't lock/unlock doors or trunk
• Left car and got beeps about key missing, put fob on steering wheel and fault went away
• Double checked by leaving car with fob on steering wheel then removing it through window
• Turned off car and now fob works and engine starts. Battery charged up to 12.53 volts

Additional data: I could use the fob to lock/unlock the doors 2 days later but the ignition light would not come on even with the key next to the switch. Wouldn't this imply that the certification and code ID ECUs are working? The battery voltage was down to 12.08v. I got a reading of 5.4v on the orange lead, 11.1v. on one side and 1.19v on the other. It appears car will start if battery is at 12.53v but no light if 12.08v and loses key recognition by 11.97.

Any thoughts on this strange problem?

Thanks

 

couldn't delete

 

Do you know if the '11 Corolla oil filter housing tool will fit the RCF?

Also, changing my oil this weekend and the car will not fit on the Rhino ramps so is it ok to use the front center jack point to lift it while place jack stands on the sides behind the front tires?

 

hey man, what’s your # or email?

 

xxx-xxx-xxxx

 

I’m 15 I paid for a sc400 it’s been sitting a few years in some dirt in South Carolina had a oil pump recently done by my uncle who passed away and it’s been sitting for a few years now seems to be holding up pretty well not much rust that I can see under it and the wheel wells all clean . I’m here in Chicago and have to drive it back what all do you think should check and bring in my sc rescue ]

 

hello I was wondering if any of you can help me
I have b2799 I've checked everything even tried the paper clip trick and still no good does anyone have tips
I checked fuses as well I just get code b2799

 

Any SF (Broward/Dade) Lexus Mechanic on this thread?