lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

so nero is god ,come now , loads of people do without them , boostlogic , tps, wotm etc etc .. nero is one to many others

now dont get me wrong having them is not bad and probably beneficial , i dont know for sure as i have not conducted any tests between the 2 however a easy way would be to hook up a oil temp and oil pressure guage to both blocks and see at what level if truly any does the squirters have any ill or positive effects on temps and press

another thought to throw in the mix is what is the max oil temp at high rpm and high boost , why in the world would you want to squirt hot oil onto hot pistons hence running a external oil cooler to me makes better sense, i guess kinda of like running car hard and shutting off right after with hot oil in the turbo = destruction


but for me if i could get a tt block cheap enough to do my build i would be since i am looking at 9:1:1 forged and heat treated pistons , either block is fine

DINH300

Actually I spoke with Marshall from TPS and he told me that the TT with the oil squirters are better then the NA block in many ways for higher horse applications. the oil squirter lubricate the walls which keeps the motor at low temp. again Na is just a cost efficient way of building a block

I also spoke to Zohair from BoostLogic and he told me that he would perfer to build a TT over a NA because the TT will last longer and make efficent numbers. he would not recommend anybody build a high horse power block for the street.

DINH300

I couldn't reach WOTM so I can't say anything about what they said. but I'll call them tomorrow when I have time.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

thats not what they told me sir for i too spoke when zohair and errol and ryan prior to building my car


now be sure and ask them if block becuase of tt pistons or block in itself

now as i illustrated above i dont have concrete eveidence to say with 100% authority if it matters but common sense tells me oil temp high squirting under hot pistons may not make for good mix

//LRD

No sir that make you and Titan motorsport smart cookies.better flowing heads with a better built block........................

DINH300

Oil squirter run threw out the hole entire revolution of the piston and the Oil is squirted up to keep it at a low temp. If your talking about the oil squirting when the block is only overheating that can cause major problems.

This is what Nero, Marshall , and Zohair all told me but in different ways. For a Road driven car it is recommended to run a TT block with a squirters because it Lubricates the Piston and rods. there for the block last longer and that is what a road car needs longevity.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

din , have you even ever opened up a block and disassembled it

well just 2 weeks ago i did when we swapped out a bad block on coreys 1jz

the squirters are a nozzle located under the piston sir and squirts a bead of oil as piston is going up and down , itrs squirting the same oil thats running through eng so oil is hot squirting onto hot surface .. again i could be wrong but i agree with the road race scnerio , for i was told that as well when using in constant extremes squirters are necessary as well as external oil cooler

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

my block will be when done next year by me

DINH300

The Piston and Rods are always going to be hotter then the Oil simply because the Moving parts conduct heat and the oil help the moving parts such as Piston, rings, rods, bearing stay at lower temperature. Over heating kills the block and as you go up in boost the engine get hotter and hotter so the more cooler the block is the more efficient you can make power.

people run oil coolers simply because it help aid in higher boost.

Wicked SC

iTrader: (3)

You go bad boy!!!! Hopefully you produce the big numbers that you hope to, then you can patent it and call it Lexforlife fully built racing block, guaranteed to produce a minimum of 600rwhp!!!

DINH300

Here is my list of parts and Modds that I will be doing.

1. Bigger injectors and rail
2. 2nd fuel pump
3. big feed and returns
4. pte 67 journal bearing
5. build the tranny
6. relocate the ECU
7. intake manifold
8. 3 roll intercooler with 3" intercooler piping
9. relocating the ABS pump and battery
10. STANDALONE


run the car on 18psi and if that don't work 6spd swap

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

that it shall for thats the intent in my coversations with errol at tps and brian from prolink they both concur that 9:1:1 is the best compromise when running a standalone seeing that i will never see higher the 25psi max


higher compression but still in safe zone , acl race bearings, 3 angle valve job on head , titanium valve springs and retainers and new guides and seals , slight very slight port job on head itself and maybe the aftermarket cmas to a 268 or maybe 272deg

biggest part of equation STANDALONE to be able to control it all and 600ish max is the goal meaning 560 -610 is the max i want out of the build but build will be for in the 900hp range so it will be able to take a everyday beating with hiccups

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

that should make you happy and car should be a beast in the 500 ish range with those mods guranteed providing eng is healthy

DINH300

I hope so

IndecentSC

iTrader: (3)

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