Update:
I have tried going on the same road on the same lane opposite direction and it still pulls left. It is less of a pull and more of a drift.
I had gone back to the alignment shop and they did agree the rear was slightly out. So they asked me to put a full tank of gas and then did a 4 wheel alignment. It's slightly better but still wants to go left. I've tried on all 3 lanes of the highway where I know the right side has a crown to have the water go down on the right... it still pulls left but not as strong on that side...

Any ideas? I'm at a loss now.

 

How many miles do you have on the new tires? Could be already have a pattern from being out of alignment. Rotate tires and see if any difference at all. If no difference see if alignment shop can align at extreme within spec to correct. Maybe it is something in the front end drive train slightly out and ESh would be more inclined to address that if it is possible.

 

The tires have about 500 miles on them. I drove about 300miles with regular balancing then did a force balance as it changes slightly from being new. The alignment shop won't let me go back free of charge, they took the time to tune it as close to perfect as possible and told me if it's still pulling its something else.

 

Let me give you the factory specs:

Front:







Rear:








The specs that you posted do not correspond with the factory ones.

 

Thank you!
I'm not sure how to read this if you can help me.
What is difference between Camber (Unloaded Vehicle) & Camber (Unloaded Vehicle) for 2WD? Not sure which one to follow in my case.

Also if you can help me understand the conditions. I've never looked at it this way. I'm assuming A and B are front two tires and C and D are rear but the 1st line is in degrees and second is in inch/mm.

Example:
Front Conditions for Toe
C+D. I have 0.11+0.11 = 0.22. Specs calls for (0.07 +/- 0.17). So I'm within the 0.24 max.
B-A: 0.03 - 0.03 = 0. The specs are showing mm and inch not degrees.

Rear
C + D = .11 - .11 = 0.22. Specs 0.20 +/- 0.17
B - A = 0.03 - 0.03 = 0. Specs (0.0906+/- 0.0787inch)



Also: Where did you get the specs? I searched everywhere and couldn't find them.

 

Bump. Can someone please help me understand the alignment guide and where it came from. Thank you

 

Ok I will try to explain some of your questions , maybe

Camber is the angle of the wheel measuring the tilt of the wheel IN or OUT at the top of the wheel from the side of the car.
Caster is the tilt of the wheel from the spindle measured forward or rearward of the car. (Example, grocery cart wheels. the wheels are extreamely Negitive ( or backwards) caster from the "Spindle"
Toe-in, Toe-out is the measurement of the wheels from being exactly pointing in the same direction. Example: take two wheels and roll them forward, IF they run into each other, that would be TOE-IN IF they roll away from each other, that would be Toe-Out.
To understand the printout above fully, you need to go to school and learn it.
The specs for alignments are always in the alignment machine or service books. They aren't normally available to the public because we don't have alignment machines to do the job anyway.

My question to you, IS it still drifting or pulling, and is it still doing it

 

Thank you. I understand each of the terms. I know that when I go to an alignment shop they will ask me what I want to change.

I don't know exactly the difference between drift and pull.
The Steering wheel stays straight but the car starts to go left and I have to correct it by turning the steering wheel right. The faster I got the more adjustments I have to do.

It is NOT the road. I took my wife's NX on the exact road and it's perfect. I can let the steering wheel go and it goes straight. Same section of road with my ES it wants to go LEFT. Yes I've tried several other roads, tried road force balancing the tires, etc

 

You should not have to understand any of this or tell them what to change as that is why there are professionals. Explain what the problem is and they should be able try and correct problem by going to extreme end in adjustments within specs. It could be the car doesn't like the tire you put on and next time put on what the car came with. These tires probably have a pattern now and any adjustments may not make any difference. Verify by reviews if this tire works with no problems on this car.

 

Thank you ESh. Goodyear had no idea how to use that document and they had both alignment mechanics look at it...
They put it back on and only recommendation they had was to increase the toe in to max within spec. I like it like this because the steering wants to go back straight a little more quickly but it still drifts left on high speed :/

 

Glad to see they took the initiative and did as I recommended. At this point if it is not the tires it is most likely the car and could be why it was traded in. I have seen numerous times where a car is damaged and repaired before reaches dealer and is never reported even to dealer. Just keep an eye on how tires wear if you can put up with the pulling.

 

That’s disturbing! Like the lane centering is overriding the steering wheel angle even when turned off!

 

Update: Went to the dealer, they checked and said no need for an alignment it's almost dead on spec, head mechanic took it on a test drive and felt the left pull. Went back on alignment rack and said only thing he can think of is the Michelin Defender 2 tires as they are very stiff for high mileage so not as forgiving OR camber but he would need to order bolts.

So I switching the new Michelin Defender 2 to Michelin Cross Climate 2 tires (The Defender 2 are horrible in rain situations). Those are directional tires and software, i can tell the grip is much better and are amazing in rain... still pulls slightly left on highway that I have to keep correcting... It's been 1000 miles and I've gotten the tires force balanced.

Do you think the camber bolts and alignment will help? 1 degree off in the rear but both sides are almost identical. What do you think?

 

Are there any visible signs that car has been damaged? Carry it to a body shop and get them to look at it and they can tell right away. There are little things like paint lines etc that professionals can always tell. I have seen vehicles do this and never be corrected no matter what the specs show. A lot of times it does come down to the tire and what I would do is put what ever came on the car oem back on the next tire change and if that doesn't fix it is inherent in the car.

 

I would have the car independently inspected for possible accident damage from the previous owner. Sometimes those don't always get reported on CarFax and they could cause steering wheel pulls even when having dead-on specs wheel alignments.

If, there's evidence of that, you could have the shop to misalign specs in order to compensate for the pull; or have it corrected $$$.