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Removing headlight fixture for repair

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Old 11-06-18, 05:18 PM
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norakat
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Default Removing headlight fixture for repair

Hi, I did a search on this site and couldn't find any detailed information.

I would like to remove my headlight fixture for repair. I am past the warranty and am getting moisture in there I suspect from a crack.

I own a 2016 Lexus ES 350 Luxury edition.

I read that you need to remove the bumper.

I do not even know how to get started removing the cover in the engine bay above the headlight. No sure how to release the tabs..

Also if anyone knows what is the best service manual I can get for this car at a reasonable price that would be great.
Old 11-06-18, 06:45 PM
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NdYAG
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Complete service manuals are available online at techinfo.toyota.com at $20/day. If you find a better option let me know.
Old 11-09-18, 12:08 AM
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norakat
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Default Success!

I was able to to remove and repair my cracked headlight fixture that was getting moisture leaking in over the past 2 days. This is for my 2016 Lexus ES 350.

I will leave some notes for anyone else trying to attempt this in the future:

It was not necessary to jack up the car and I did not have to remove the bumper cover all the way to remove one of the headlight fixtures. In my case the passenger side headlight.

1) remove top front engine bay cover by pressing in the black tabs. After removal reset tabs by pulling center piece back out.

2) remove screws along bottom of bumper cover..

3) After removing front engine bay cover, reveals 10mm center screw for bumper cover. The other 2 black rubber/plastic fasteners double as rubber pads for the hood, which also support the bumper from the top. You can remove those by putting a small flathead screwdriver under the top piece and lift that up before removing the whole thing.

4) Next, you want to partially remove the wheel well cover (toward the front of the car) starting from the bottom, 3 tabs. The bottom tab is removed by turning the center piece with a flathead 90 deg. then remove. The other 2 tabs are removed by using a small flathead to lift the center piece, then remove the whole thing. You can fold back part of the wheel well cover to reveal a 10mm screw holding the bumper to the quarter panel. Remove that.

5) Being careful not to break a thin plastic tab, gently pull on the side of the bumper cover to release it. There are like 3 plastic tabs holding it in place. You can pull it back just enough to remove the headlight.

6) The headlight is held in place by 3 screws on top and one bolt on the side. Remove side bolt. Two screws on top will be visible. One is hidden behind engine bay side plastic cover. You can pull that a little toward front of car and up to release the first tab. This will expose the third screw.

7) There are 3 electrical connectors connected to a metal bracket fixed to the headlight. You can make it easy to remove them by removing a screw that attaches it. Remove 3 connectors by pushing in tabs and pulling apart.

And thats it, the headlight should come out. There is a white plastic tab on one of the top screw holes; you have to kind of lift it up and over, you will see what I'm talking about.

If I have time, I will post some pictures. I wanted to write some notes while I still remember.

----

I ended up pouring out like a quarter cup of water out of the headlamp fixture out of a small crack that developed.

I ended up drying it out with an oven I made w a hair dryer and cardboard box, I saw on a Chris Fix video on Youtube.

I sealed the crack w epoxy. Do not attempt to open the fixture seal unless you plan on sealing it back up properly; and opening properly by heating it up first.

These videos below are not for this car but might be helpful:

Btw, I hear Epoxy is better to repair cracks than silicone since its stronger.

Hope that helps.


Note: I am not sure if I have a LED or HID Xenon low beam/high beam, however unlike some other headlights that have a cap to remove the low/high beam bulbs, my light fixture has none. You can only remove the turning light and yellow light on the side.

Last edited by norakat; 11-09-18 at 12:16 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by norakat:
lesz (11-09-18), NdYAG (11-10-18), ZALIM (11-05-23)
Old 11-09-18, 05:45 AM
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lesz
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I suspect that the repair that you did is above my pay grade, but I'm sure that the detailed and well-written explanation of how you did it will be helpful to some in the future. Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up.


Originally Posted by norakat
Note: I am not sure if I have a LED or HID Xenon low beam/high beam, however unlike some other headlights that have a cap to remove the low/high beam bulbs, my light fixture has none. You can only remove the turning light and yellow light on the side.
By the 2016 model year, Lexus was using LED headlights and had stopped using the Xenon HID headlights on the ES. For the 2016 model year, all low beam headlights were LEDs. The standard high beams were halogen, and LED high beams were an option.
Old 01-19-20, 04:16 PM
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swfla
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Sorry to read from your posts that this repair failed.

Last edited by swfla; 01-19-20 at 04:58 PM.
Old 01-20-20, 05:22 AM
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norakat
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Originally Posted by swfla
Sorry to read from your posts that this repair failed.
The initial repair failed because, like a fool, I tried to separate the housing. I didn't know at the time it had a glue and that you had to heat the entire thing up. I ended up compromising the seal. I am going to reseal the entire housing soon.

I also do not recommend using standard epoxy to repair cracks. It does not stand up to weathering very good. I am looking for an alternative. If anyone knows better one please post.
Old 01-20-20, 05:48 AM
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Clear silicone seal works.
Old 01-20-20, 05:50 AM
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rmak
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Originally Posted by norakat
I also do not recommend using standard epoxy to repair cracks. It does not stand up to weathering very good. I am looking for an alternative. If anyone knows better one please post.
If not a visible repair I always use 3M marine 5200 for sealing. It works on all boat thru-hull fittings and is waterproof and permanent. It comes in white or black so it may not work depending on the area.

They make a 3M Marine sealant that is clear too just not as strong, I have used it on my boat also.


https://www.amazon.com/3M-08019-Marine-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B000H8W9V8/ref=pd_sbs_328_1/145-1669807-2722849?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000H8W9V8&pd_rd_r=ac30dfc2-7d17-4066-aa98-da8e8ea2a63b&pd_rd_w=x2Rb2&pd_rd_wg=JMkNf&pf_rd_p=bdd201df-734f-454e-883c-73b0d8ccd4c3&pf_rd_r=E7ZGSCC20F96VYY6YXHG&psc=1&refRID=E7ZGSCC20F96VYY6YXHG https://www.amazon.com/3M-08019-Marine-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B000H8W9V8/ref=pd_sbs_328_1/145-1669807-2722849?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000H8W9V8&pd_rd_r=ac30dfc2-7d17-4066-aa98-da8e8ea2a63b&pd_rd_w=x2Rb2&pd_rd_wg=JMkNf&pf_rd_p=bdd201df-734f-454e-883c-73b0d8ccd4c3&pf_rd_r=E7ZGSCC20F96VYY6YXHG&psc=1&refRID=E7ZGSCC20F96VYY6YXHG

https://www.amazon.com/3M-05220-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0000AY6CA/ref=pd_bxgy_2/145-1669807-2722849?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0000AY6CA&pd_rd_r=8dd43574-96b9-4604-b636-b1095b8df591&pd_rd_w=q21YP&pd_rd_wg=z51du&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=KX6100CTM7WZVA8QZAXK&psc=1&refRID=KX6100CTM7WZVA8QZAXK https://www.amazon.com/3M-05220-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0000AY6CA/ref=pd_bxgy_2/145-1669807-2722849?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0000AY6CA&pd_rd_r=8dd43574-96b9-4604-b636-b1095b8df591&pd_rd_w=q21YP&pd_rd_wg=z51du&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=KX6100CTM7WZVA8QZAXK&psc=1&refRID=KX6100CTM7WZVA8QZAXK




Last edited by rmak; 01-20-20 at 05:57 AM.
Old 01-20-20, 06:43 AM
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norakat
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Originally Posted by rmak
If not a visible repair I always use 3M marine 5200 for sealing.
I wonder if this would adhere to plastic?

..also withstand high heat and alternating to cold?

The epoxy repair looked pretty permanent but you can see in some parts it separated from the plastic and started to yellow.

I read on another forum that Cyanoacrylate glue was the choice, seeping into cracks, but elsewhere I heard it does not tolerate that much stress.
Old 01-20-20, 07:30 AM
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rmak
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Originally Posted by norakat
I wonder if this would adhere to plastic?

..also withstand high heat and alternating to cold?

The epoxy repair looked pretty permanent but you can see in some parts it separated from the plastic and started to yellow.

I read on another forum that Cyanoacrylate glue was the choice, seeping into cracks, but elsewhere I heard it does not tolerate that much stress.
I used 5200 extensively on my boat under the water line. It will adhere to anything and does not want to come off. It takes a few days to fully cure. I once used it to glue a patch on the floor of a beater car, still there as far as I know.
Old 01-21-20, 07:40 AM
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norakat
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Originally Posted by rmak
I used 5200 extensively on my boat under the water line. It will adhere to anything and does not want to come off. It takes a few days to fully cure. I once used it to glue a patch on the floor of a beater car, still there as far as I know.
I was just concerned since it did not list plastic as one of the suitable materials on the package. Also the viscosity might not allow it to flow into the crack(?)

Do you think I can put it on and install the headlight the next day? I do not have the luxury to wait several days for it to cure..

The plastic where I will repair the crack is black so the color is no problem.
Old 01-21-20, 09:59 AM
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rmak
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I would clean the plastic with alcohol and scuff it a little bit. I have not found anything that 5200 will not adhere to. Maybe try the 3M clear for a quicker cure.

I have not tried it on a headlight, but I have not used a more permanent sealer that 5200.
Old 01-23-20, 07:46 PM
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norakat
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Originally Posted by rmak
I would clean the plastic with alcohol and scuff it a little bit. I have not found anything that 5200 will not adhere to. Maybe try the 3M clear for a quicker cure.

I have not tried it on a headlight, but I have not used a more permanent sealer that 5200.
I think I’ll try it thanks.

You think it can take the heat from the light right next to it?
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